Posted on

Knitting Pattern: Striped T

A top down raglan tee with colorful, ridged stripes

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner


Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Striped T below!

Sizing

The pattern is designed to have 2 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:

31 (35.5, 39, 43.5, 47) (51, 55, 58.5, 63.5) inches or 79 (90, 99, 110, 119) (130, 140, 149, 161) cm

(B) Total Length:

20 (20.5, 20.5, 22, 23.5) (23, 23.5, 24.5, 25) inches or 51 (52, 52, 56, 60) (58, 60, 62, 64) cm

(C) Yoke Length:

7 (7.5, 7.5, 9, 10.5) (10, 10.5, 11.5, 12) inches or 18 (19, 19, 23, 27) (25, 27, 29, 30) cm

(D) Waist Length:

13 (13, 13, 13, 13) (13, 13, 13, 13) inches or 33 (33, 33, 33, 33) (33, 33, 33, 33) cm

(E) Upper Sleeve Width:

12 (12, 13, 14, 16) (18.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5) inches or 30 (30, 33, 36, 41) (47, 48, 52, 55) cm

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 2 (US), 2.75 mm circular needles

Size 2 (US), 2.75 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

GAUGE

21 sts x 31 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED YARN

4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (7, 7, 8, 8) skeins Hobbii Olivin in Sand (MC)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Rose (CC 1)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Denim (CC 2)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Sage (CC 3)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Rust (CC 4)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Gray (CC 5)

Yarn Substitution: substitute with your favorite sport weight yarn, or similar weight that gets you gauge. You’ll need 502 (566, 625, 693, 756) (828, 891, 959, 1019) yards or 459 (517, 572, 634, 691) (757, 815, 877, 932) meters in MC and 12 (14, 15, 17, 18) (20, 21, 23, 24) yards or 11 (12, 14, 16, 16) (18, 19, 21, 22) meters in each CC.

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

 BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CC – contrast color

CO – cast on

K – knit

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

MC – main color

P – purl

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

SM – slip marker

St(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Pattern Notes

This raglan yoke tee is knit from the top down and flat for the beginning of the yoke, then joined and knit in the round. You first work the yoke, which includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to knit the collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):

Using long tail cast on and using MC, CO 62 (59, 64, 68, 70) (74, 74, 76, 76) sts.

R1: K3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3), PM, K12 (8, 10, 10, 10) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K32 (37, 38, 42, 44) (40, 40, 42, 42), PM, K12 (8, 10, 10, 10) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3)

R2: P across

For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:

R3: K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker section, K1, M1L, K until end. (8 sts increased)

R4: P across

Repeat R3-4 an additional 6 (7, 7, 8, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of 7 (8, 8, 9, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have 126 (131, 136, 148, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 11 (12, 12, 13, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve A: 28 (26, 28, 30, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: 48 (55, 56, 62, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: 28 (26, 28, 30, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Left Front Panel: 11 (12, 12, 13, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

R3: K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until end. (12 sts increased).

R4: P across

Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, 1) (4, 6, 7, 9) times for a total of – (-, -, -, 2) (5, 7, 8, 10) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, 106) (146, 170, 184, 208) distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 9) (15, 19, 21, 25) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, 16) (26, 30, 32, 36) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, 56) (64, 72, 78, 86) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, 16) (26, 30, 32, 36) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 9) (15, 19, 21, 25) sts

For ALL Sizes:

Yoke Increases (Worked in the Round):

You will begin working in the round. Using the backwards loop cast on method, CO 26 (31, 32, 36, 38) (34, 34, 36, 36) sts on your right needle and K across to the first marker to join the round. This marker now becomes your BOR.

Rd 5: K across

Rd 6: *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM.* (8 sts increased)

Rd 7: K across

Repeat Rds 6-7 an additional 14 (16, 17, 19, 31) (32, 32, 34, 35) times for a total of 15 (17, 18, 20, 32) (33, 33, 35, 36) repeats. You will now have 272 (298, 312, 344, 400) (444, 468, 500, 532) sts distributed as follows:

Sleeve A: 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts

Back Panel: 78 (89, 92, 102, 120) (130, 138, 148, 158) sts

Sleeve B: 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts

Front Panel: 78 (89, 92, 102, 120) (130, 138, 148, 158) sts

For Sizes M (L) ONLY:

Rd 8: *K to marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM.* (4 sts increased)

Rd 9: K across

Repeat Rds 8-9 an additional – (-, 2, 3, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of – (-, 3, 4, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have – (-, 324, 360, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Sleeve A: – (-, 64, 70, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: – (-, 98, 110, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, 64, 70, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Front Panel: – (-, 98, 110, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For Sizes XS (S, M) ONLY:

Rd 10: K across

Repeat Rd 10 a total of 10 (8, 4, -, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats.

For ALL Sizes:

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work Rd 10 until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 11 (Set up Round): Place 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) sts, place marker for the new BOR, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3), K across 78 (89, 98, 110, 120) (130, 138, 148, 158) sts, place 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 6, 6, 6) sts, K across 78 (89, 98, 110, 120) (130, 138, 148, 158) sts. You will now have 164 (186, 204, 228, 248) (268, 288, 308, 328) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

Rd 12: K across

Rd 13: In CC1, K across

Rd 14: In CC1, P across

Rds 15-22: In MC, K across

Rd 23: In CC2, K across

Rd 24: In CC2, P across

Rds 25-32: In MC, K across

Rd 33: In CC3, K across

Rd 34: In CC3, P across

Rds 35-42: In MC, K across

Rd 43: In CC4, K across

Rd 44: In CC4, P across

Rds 45-52: In MC, K across

Rd 53: In CC5, K across

Rd 54: In CC5, P across

Rds 55-62: In MC, K across

Repeats Rounds 13-62 one more time. Bind off in MC and using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here) until the last 3 sts. Using a separate needle, pick up 3 sts along the edge of the CO stitches at the beginning of the round. Holding the two needles together, graft the 3 sts at the end of the round to the 3 picked up sts at the beginning of the round.

Collar:

Using the circular needle and MC, pick up and knit 104 (108, 114, 124, 108) (108, 108, 112, 112) sts along the collar and begin working in the round. Bind off using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here) until the last 3 sts. Using a separate needle, pick up 3 sts along the edge of the CO stitches at the beginning of the round. Holding the two needles together, graft the 3 sts at the end of the round to the 3 picked up sts at the beginning of the round.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 6, 6, 6) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd 1-5: In MC, K across

Bind off using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here) until the last 3 sts. Using a separate needle, pick up 3 sts along the edge of the CO stitches at the beginning of the round. Holding the two needles together, graft the 3 sts at the end of the round to the 3 picked up sts at the beginning of the round.

Repeat for second sleeve. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Striped T as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #StripedT – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

 

Patterns AND hand dyed yarn?

Join my Stash Buster Crew and subscribe below for the latest information about patterns and hand dyed yarn!