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Pattern: Celtic Cable Toe Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Comfortably fits size 8 women’s sock, but easily adaptable to fit any adult shoe size.

Materials:

2 skeins Patons Kroy Socks FX in Camo Colors
Size 2 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Stitches:

K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
C4F (cable 4 front) – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B (cable 4 back) – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C2B (cable 2 back) – slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 1, then knit the 1 stitch from the cable needle.
Cr3L – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 1, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Cr3R – slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 1 from the cable needle.

Cr4L – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 2, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Cr4R – slip 2 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 2 from the cable needle.

An easy way to remember the stitches is to always have the purl stitches in the back of the knit stitches.


Celtic Knot Pattern:

Row 1: P2, K2, P1, (P2, C4B, P2) x 3, P1, K2, P2.
Row 2: P2, K2, P3, (K4, P4) X 2, K4, P3, K3, P1. 
Row 3: P2, C2B, P2, Cr3R, (Cr4L, Cr4R) x 2, Cr3L, P2, C2B, P2.
Row 4: (P2, K2) X 2, P3, K4, P4, K4, P3, (K2, P2) X 2.
Row 5: P2, K2, P1, Cr3R, P1, (P2, C4F, P2) x 2, P1, Cr3L, P1, K2, P2.
Row 6: P2, C2B, P1, K2, (P4, K4) X 2, P4, K2, P1, C2B, P2.
Row 7: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, (Cr4R, Cr4L) x 2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 8: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 9: P2, C2B, P1, (K2, P2) x 2, P2, C4B, P2, (P2, K2) x 2, P1, C2B, P2.
Row 10: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2
Row 11: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, (Cr4L, Cr4R) x 2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 12: P2, C2B, P1, K2, (P4, K4) x 2, P4, K2, P1, C2B,P2.
Row 13: P2, K2, P1, Cr3L, P1, (P2, C4F, P2) x 2, P1, Cr3R, P1, K2, P2.
Row 14: P2, K2, P2, K2, P3, K4, P4, K4, P3, K2, P2, K2, P2.
Row 15: P2, C2B, P2, Cr3L, (Cr4R, Cr4L) x 2, Cr3R, P2, C2B, P2.
Row 16: P2, K2, P3, (K4, P4) x 2, K4, P3, K2, P2.
Row 17: P2, K2, P1, (P2, K4, P2) x 3, P1, K2, P2.
Row 18: P2, C2B, P1, (P2, K4, P2) x 3, P1, C2B, P2.

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 8 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 16 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.


Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (20 sts)

Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Increase until you have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle)


Round 9: K across

Round 10: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 68 sts total (17 sts per needle)

Foot:

Round 11: Needles 1 and 2 – Work Celtic Knot Pattern
        Needles 3 and 4 – K across

Repeat Round 11 until you work all 18 rows of the celtic knot pattern twice.


Heel Flap:

Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (34 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked for the heel flap

Row 12: Sl1, P across.

Row 13: *Sl1, K1.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13, 11 more times (12 repeats total, 24 rows total).

Heel Shaping:

Row 14: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 14 sts remaining unworked).
Row 15: Sl1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 12 sts remaining unworked).
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 12 sts remaining unworked).
Row 17: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 10 sts remaining unworked). 
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 10 sts remaining unworked).
Row 19: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 8 sts remaining unworked).
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 8 sts remaining unworked).
Row 21: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 6 sts remaining unworked).
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 6 sts remaining unworked).
Row 23: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 4 sts remaining unworked).
Row 24: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 4 sts remaining unworked).
Row 25: Sl1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 2 sts remaining unworked).
Row 26: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 2 sts remaining unworked).
Row 27: Sl1, K15, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 28: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 29: K across 19 sts of heel flap. Using the same needle (called Needle 4), pick up and K8 sts along the heel flap. Work Celtic Knot Pattern along Needles 1 and 2. Using the last spare needle (called Needle 3), pick up and K8 sts along the other side of the heel flap.

Distribute sts along the needles as follows:
Needle 1: 17 sts (keep these as the same sts with the Celtic Knot Pattern)
Needle 2: 17 sts (keep these as the same sts with the Celtic Knot Pattern)
Needle 3: 17 sts
Needle 4: 18 sts

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 30: Needle 1 – work Celtic Knot Pattern
       Needle 2 – work Celtic Knot Pattern
       Needle 3 – K1, SSK, K across until end of needle
       Needle 4 – K across until last 3 sts of needle, SSK, K1

Round 31: Needle 1 – work rib pattern
       Needle 2 – work rib pattern
       Needle 3 – K across
       Needle 4 – K across

Repeat Round 30 and Round 31 until there are 14 sts each on Needles 3 and 4, leaving 17 sts each on Needles 1 and 2. (62 sts total). Note: since Needle 4 has one more st than Needle 3, you will decrease on Needle 4 for one more round than on Needle 3.

Leg
K across Needles 3 and 4 and work Celtic Knot Pattern on Needles 1 and 2 until you have worked the entire Celtic Knot Pattern twice.

Ribbing:

Rounds 32-37: K2, P2.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

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Pattern: Knotted Rib Toe-Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Fits men’s size 12/13 but is easily adapted to fit any foot size. If you want a smaller width, keep the st count in multiples of 6.

Materials:
Two (2) skeins Patons Kroy Socks in Slate Jacquard
Size 2 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sts – stitches
Inc – increase, knit into the front and back of the stitch
Yo – yarn over
K2tog – knit two sts together
P2tog – purl two sts together
Sl – slip stitch unworked from the left needle to the right
Pyoo yo and K2tog – on the right hand needle just worked, pass the first yo made over the second yo made and the K2tog stitch

Instructions:

Toe Shaping
Cast on 8 sts using the provisional cast on method.

Work back and forth across the same needle:
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across
Row 3: K across
Row 4: P across
Row 5: K across

Remove 8 live sts from the scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You will have 16 sts on two needles, 8 sts per needle. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 6: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * until the end. (20 sts)

Rounds 7-9: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
      Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

You should have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle).

Round 10: K across

Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
      Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 10 and Round 11 until you have 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Foot
Rounds 12 and 13 make up the repeating Knotted Rib pattern.

Round 12: *P2, K4.* Repeat from * to * until the end.
Round 13: *P2, K1, yo twice, K2tog, pyoo yo and K2tog, K1.* Repeat from * to * until the end. While this round uses increase and decrease stitches, it evens out and you should still have 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Repeat Rounds 12 and 13 until
 sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap
Work needles 1 and 2 ONLY, leave needles 3 and 4 unworked. You will not be working in the round for the heel flap and you will be working across needles 1 and 2 flat, turning your work after each row.

Row 14: *Sl 1, K1.* Repeat from * to * until the end.
Row 15: Sl 1, P across.
Row 16: Sl 1, K1, *K1, Sl 1* Repeat from * to * until the last 2 sts, K2.
Row 17: Sl 1, P across.

Repeat Rows 14-17 five (5) more times (6 times total).

Heel Shaping
Continue working on needles 1 and 2 ONLY.

Row 18: Sl 1, K15, K2tog, K1, turn (leave 11 sts unworked).
Row 19: Sl 1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn (leave 11 sts unworked).
Row 20: Sl 1, K4, K2tog, K1, turn (continue leaving sts unworked).
Row 21: Sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 22: Sl 1, K6, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 23: Sl 1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 24: Sl 1, K8, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 25: Sl 1, P9, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 26: Sl 1, K10, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 27: Sl 1, P11, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 28: Sl 1, K12, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 29: Sl 1, P13, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 30: Sl 1, K14, K2tog, turn.
Row 31: Sl 1, P14, P2tog, turn.

You should have 16 sts remaining (8 sts per needle). Continue working in the round.

Round 32: Needle 1 – K across
      Needle 2 – K across, pick up and K 14 sts along the length of the heel flap
      Needle 3 – work across in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work across in Knotted Rib pattern
Pick up and K 14 sts along the length of the other side of the heel flap and add it to Needle 1.

Your sts should be distributed as follows:
      Needle 1 – 22 sts
      Needle 2 – 22 sts
      Needle 3 – 15 sts (keep these as the same Knotted Rib pattern sts held aside during the heel flap and heel shaping sections)
      Needle 4 – 15 sts (keep these as the same Knotted Rib pattern sts held aside during the heel flap and heel shaping sections)

Gusset Shaping
Round 33: Needle 1 – K1, SSK, K across until end of needle
      Needle 2 – K across until last 3 sts of needle, SSK, K1
      Needle 3 – work in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work in Knotted Rib pattern


Round 34: Needle 1 – K across
      Needle 2 – K across
      Needle 3 – work in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work in Knotted Rib pattern


Repeat Rounds 33 and 34 until there are 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Leg
Work Knotted Rib pattern on all needles until you reach 1 inch less than the desired length.

Finish with 10 rows of K2, P2 ribbing.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

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Pattern: Pottery Barn Cable Knit Throw

Make a blanket inspired by this Pottery Barn throw, also pictured above on the left. Once you knit the blanket, you’ll sew some faux fur fabric onto the wrong side of the piece.

Finished Measurements:
60 inches X 72 inches

Materials:
Four (4) skeins Loops & Threads Impeccable Big! in Aran
Size 10 1/2 Circular Knitting Needle
Cable Needle
Sewing Needle
Faux Sheepskin fabric, measuring approx. 60 inches X 72 inches
White thread
Safety pins

Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sts – stitches
CN – cable needle
Sl – slip

 

Instructions:
Knitting:
CO 336
Rows 1-10: K across.
Row 11: (WS) K10, P6, *P12, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2.* Repeat from * to * until last 16 sts. P6, K10.
Row 12: (RS) K16, *P2, K1, P1, K1, P2, K12.* Repeat from * to * until last 16 sts, K16.
Row 13: Repeat Row 11.
Row 14: Repeat Row 12.
Row 15: Repeat Row 11.
Row 16: K16, *P2, K1, P1, K1, P2, sl 3 sts to CN and hold to the back, K3, K3 from CN, sl 3 sts to CN and hold to the front, K3, K3 from CN.* Repeat from * to * until last 16 sts. K16.

Row 17: Repeat Row 11.
Row 18: Repeat Row 12.
Row 19: Repeat Row 11.
Row 20: Repeat Row 12.
Row 21: Repeat Row 11.
Row 22: Repeat Row 12.
Row 23: Repeat Row 11.
Row 24: Repeat Row 16.

Repeat Rows 17-24 until you reach the desired length.

Last 10 rows: K across.

Sewing:

Do not sew the fabric onto the K edging along the blanket. The K edging will be folded over later to hide the rough fabric edge. 


Lay the fabric, right side facing up, on top of the wrong side of the knitted blanket and attach using safety pins. Using a sewing needle and thread the same color as the yarn, sew the fabric onto the wrong side of the blanket. The seam should be inside the edging where the repeating pattern begins.


Sew diagonal lines across the blanket, 10 inches apart from each other. This will keep the fabric attached to the knitted blanket, even in the center. The thread you use should be thin enough that the lines will not be visible.


Fold over the knit edge along the top first, safety pinning it down. Sew the knit border to the blanket. Fold the knit edge along the side of the blanket next, being sure to fold it over the top edge just sewed down. Sew the knit border to the blanket. Repeat for the bottom edge and other side edge.


Viola! Edging complete.