Posted on

Pattern: Stardust

Finished Measurements:
Pattern is written for women’s size 8 (US)

Materials:

Size 1 double pointed needles
1 skein Patons Kroy Socks FX in Cadet Colors (MC)
1 skein Patons Kroy Socks FX in Clover Colors (CC)

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Abbreviations:

K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the  stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).

Instructions:

Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method and MC, cast on 12 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles (12 sts per needle). Begin knitting in the round.


Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to *

Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 40 sts total (10 sts per needle)


Round 7: K across

Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 7 and Round 8 until you have 64 sts total (16 sts per needle)

Foot:

For all foot rounds, work the Stardust Pattern below. The MC appears in white on the chart and the CC appears in black. Work until the sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap:

Turn so WS is facing and work across Needles 3 & 4 only (leave Needles 1 & 2 unworked and to the side) in CC only, meaning you do not work in the Stardust Pattern for the heel flap. 
Row 1: Sl 1, P across

 

Row 2: Sl 1, K across

 

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 nine more times (10 repeats total, or 20 rows).
 
Row 3: P16, P2tog, P1, turn (leave rem sts unworked)
Row 4: Sl 1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn (leave rem sts unworked)
Row 5: Sl 1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 6: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 7: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 8: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 9: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 10: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 11: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 12: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 13: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 14: Sl1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 15: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 16: Sl 1, K15, K2tog, turn
Row 17: Sl 1, P15, P2tog, turn
 
Split the remaining heel flap sts so there’s 8 sts on Needle 4 and 9 sts on Needle 3. Begin working in the round again.

Round 9: K across Needle 3; K across Needle 4 and pick up and K 10 sts along heel flap edge on same Needle 4; K across Needles 1 & 2 in Stardust Pattern; pick up and K 10 sts along the other heel flap edge with Needle 3 and K remaining sts on Needle 3. (69 sts total). The spot between Needle 3 and Needle 4 will be the new starting point and Needle 4 now becomes Needle 1 and so on for the rest of the pattern.

Gusset Shaping: (decrease)
For the Gusset Shaping and the rest of the pattern until the end ribbing, work in the Stardust Pattern.

Round 10: Needle 1 – K across until last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
       Needle 2 – K across.
       Needle 3 – K across.
       Needle 4 – K1, SSK, K across.
 
Round 11: K across.

Repeat Round 10 and Round 11 until there are 64 sts total (16 sts per needle). Note: Needle 4 has one more stitch on it than Needle 1, so on the last decrease row, decrease only on Needle 4.

 

 

Continue working in Stardust Pattern until you reach 1/4 inch less than your desired length.

Ribbing:

Using MC only, Work K1, P1 for five rows.
Cast off.

Stardust Pattern:
Here is what the pattern looks like in its entirety from far away:

It’s not only great for socks, but would be wonderful with a scarf or even a sweater. I realize it’s difficult to actually read the chart above, so I have separated it out into five different sections for ease of viewing and printing:

 

 

 

 

 

Posted on

Pattern: Quatrefoil Reversible Slipper Socks

I wanted to make some reversible slipper socks that were also really warm so I decided to try making these socks using double knitting. It was quite challenging to figure out parts of the sock using double knitting, especially the toe at the very beginning, so I recommend tackling this pattern only if you have sock experience and double knitting experience. This could be a fun pattern to try as your first double knitting project, but it could be a bit frustrating, so beware! There’s a great photo tutorial on double knitting available here. I tried my best to explain my process as a helpful guide.

Finished Measurements:
Pattern written for women’s size 8 (US) socks, but it’s easily adaptable to fit other sizes. If you want to make the foot wider or narrower, then increase or decrease until you get your size and follow the pattern chart to keep the quatrefoil looking the same.

These socks are meant to be slipper socks, so they won’t fit snug on your foot like normal socks. They’re a bit looser for around-the-house comfort.

Materials:
Size 1 double pointed needles
1 skein Lion Brand Sock-Ease in Marshmallow
1 skein Lion Brand Sock-Ease in Snow Cone

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease). Be sure to use double knitting decrease method, available here.
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease). Be sure to use double knitting decrease method, available here.
K Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
P Inc – purl into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
W – white
B – blue

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 12 stitches of each color, making 24 stitches total on your needle. This part is really tricky and will probably require a lot of trial and error until you get the hang of it.

To have a white toe on the outside and a blue toe on the inside, start with a blue on the needle, but don’t make one blue around the string. Then, continue as normal under the provisional cast on method with the white, then the blue. Continue alternating colors and end with one white on the needle, but don’t make one white around the string. This keeps the alternating colors as you pick up the live stitches from the string.

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and split them across two double pointed needles. Split the stitches on the other needle across two needles, having four needles in total with 6 stitches of each color per needle (12 stitches total per needle). Begin knitting in the round.

Round 1: Needle 1 – K1 W, P1 B, K1 W, P1 B, K Inc W, P Inc B, *K1 W, P1 B,* repeat from * to * until end of needle.
          Needle 2 – *K1 W, P1 B,* repeat from * to * until last 4 sts, K Inc W, P Inc B, K1 W, P1 B, K1 W, P1 B.
          Needle 3 – K1 W, P1 B, K1 W, P1 B, K Inc W, P Inc B, *K1 W, P1 B,* repeat from * to * until end of needle.
          Needle 4 – *K1 W, P1 B,* repeat from * to * until last 4 sts, K Inc W, P Inc B, K1 W, P1 B, K1 W, P1 B.

Rounds 2-5: Repeat Round 1.

Round 6: *K1 W, P1 B,* repeat from * to * until end.
Round 7: Repeat Round 1.
Round 8: Repeat Round 6.
Round 9: Repeat Round 1.
Round 10: Repeat Round 6.
Round 11: Repeat Round 1.
Rounds 12-13: Repeat Round 6.
Round 14: Repeat Round 1.
Rounds 15-16: Repeat Round 6.
Round 17: Repeat Round 1.
Rounds 18-20: Repeat Round 6.
Round 21: Repeat Round 1.
Rounds 22-25: Repeat Round 6. (136 stitches total, 68 sts in each color)

Foot:
Change your yarn so the main color on the outside is blue with white as a contrast color, making the inside with a white main color and blue contrast color. Work the pattern based on the quatrefoil chart below:

Work until you have three quatrefoil rows on the foot, or until the sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked 

Row 26: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B,* repeat from * to * until end. 
Row 27: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat from * to * until end. 
Repeat Rows 26 and 27, 11 more times (12 repeats total, 24 rows total).

Heel Shaping:
There are really great instructions on how to decrease while double knitting here.

Row 28: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 17 more times (18 times total), P2tog (of white using double knitting decrease method), K2tog (of blue using double knitting decrease method), P1 W, K1 B, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue in this manner.
Row 29: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat 2 more times (3 times total), K2tog, P2tog, K1 B, P1 W, turn. 
Row 30: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 3 more times (4 times total), P2tog, K2tog, P1 W, K1 B, turn. 
Row 31: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat 4 more times (5 times total), K2tog, P2tog, K1 B, P1 W, turn. 
Row 32: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 5 more times (6 times total), P2tog, K2tog, P1 W, K1 B, turn. 
Row 33: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat 6 more times (7 times total), K2tog, P2tog, K1 B, P1 W, turn. 
Row 34: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 7 more times (8 times total), P2tog, K2tog, P1 W, K1 B, turn. 
Row 35: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat 8 more times (9 times total), K2tog, P2tog, K1 B, P1 W, turn. 
Row 36: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 9 more times (10 times total), P2tog, K2tog, P1 W, K1 B, turn. 
Row 37: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat 10 more times (11 times total), K2tog, P2tog, K1 B, P1 W, turn. 
Row 38: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 11 more times (12 times total), P2tog, K2tog, P1 W, K1 B, turn. 
Row 39: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat 12 more times (13 times total), K2tog, P2tog, K1 B, P1 W, turn. 
Row 40: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 13 more times (14 times total), P2tog, K2tog, P1 W, K1 B, turn. 
Row 41: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat 14 more times (15 times total), K2tog, P2tog, K1 B, P1 W, turn. 
Row 42: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 15 more times (16 times total), P2tog, K2tog, turn. 
Row 43: Holding yarn to the back, sl1, holding yarn to the front, sl1, *K1 B, P1 W* repeat 15 more times (16 times total), K2tog, P2tog, turn. 
Row 44: Holding yarn to the front, sl1, holding yarn to the back, sl1, *P1 W, K1 B* repeat 15 more times (16 times total), P2tog, K2tog, P1 W, K1 B, turn. 

Begin working in the round again. 

Row 45: work across heel flap, pick up 12 white stitches from the outside (blue) and 12 stitches from the inside (white), alternating in the same manner as you have been, and K the blue sts and P the white sts. Work in the quatrefoil pattern across the next 2 needles. Pick up and work 12 white stitches and 12 blue stitches in the same manner across the other side of the heel flap. On the same needle, split the heel flap sts evenly between the needles with the picked up heel flap sts, working 18 sts on one needle and 18 sts on the other.

Gusset Shaping:

Round 46: Needle 1 – Work in Quatrefoil pattern.
       Needle 2 – Work in Quatrefoil pattern.
       Needle 3 – K1 B, P1 W, SSK (keeping with double knitting decrease method), P2tog, *K1 B, P1 W,* repeat from * to * until end.
       Needle 4 – *K1 B, P1 W,* repeat from * to * until last 6 sts, K2tog (keeping with double knitting decrease method), P2tog, K1 B, P1 W.
 
Round 47: Needle 1 – Work in Quatrefoil pattern.
       Needle 2 – Work in Quatrefoil pattern.
       Needle 3 – *K1 B, P1 W,* repeat from * to * until end.
       Needle 4 – *K1 B, P1 W,* repeat from * to * until end.

Repeat Round 46 and Round 47 until there are 34 sts per needle.

Ankle:
Continue working the Quatrefoil pattern across all needles until you reach approximately an inch less than your desired length. I worked two quatrefoil rows above the heel.

Ribbing:
Ribbing with double knitting can be tricky because you need to change where you hold the yarn for each stitch differently than you have been doing. Work these same repeating four sts across the round for as many rounds until you reach your desired length, approximately one inch:
With both yarns at the back, K1 W
With W yarn at the front and B yarn at the back, K1 B
With W yarn at the front and B yarn at the back, P1 W
With both yarns at the front, P1 B

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

Posted on

Pattern: Wavy Cable Rib Toe Up Socks

Jazz up your basic ribbed socks by adding a bit of cabling.

Finished Measurements:
Pattern written for women’s size 8 (US) socks, but it’s easily adaptable to fit other sizes. If you want to make the foot wider or narrower, then increase until you have a multiple of 3 sts plus 2.

Materials:
Size 1 double pointed needles
2 skeins Sensations Soles & More in Green/Blue
Cable hook, or if you’re feeling adventurous, I recommend watching this video to learn how to cable without the hook. It’s really convenient for knitting on the go with limited supplies, especially with this pattern where you’re only holding one stitch to the front or back.

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
Cn – cable needle
C2F – slip one stitch onto cn and hold to the front, K1, K1 from cn
C2B – slip one stitch onto cn and hold to the back, K1, K1 from cn

Wavy Cable Rib Pattern:
This pattern repeats throughout the sock, working it around the entire sock at the ankle and above, but only the top of the foot. (Stepping on cable bumps can be quite uncomfortable!)

Row 1: P2, *K2, P1.* Repeat from * to * until end.
Row 2: P2, *C2F, P1.* Repeat from * to * until end.
Row 3: P2, *K2, P1.* Repeat from * to * until end.
Row 4: P2, *C2B, P1.* Repeat from * to * until end.


Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 8 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 16 sts on two needles (8 sts per needle). Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (12 sts)

Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle)


Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 7 and Round 8 until you have 64 sts total (16 sts per needle)

Foot:
For all foot rounds, work the Wavy Cable Rib Pattern across Needles 1 and 2 and work the stockinette stitch across Needles 3 and 4. In other words, you will work the cable pattern over the top of the foot and stockinette stitch over the bottom of the foot.

Work until the sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (31 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked 

Row 9: Sl1, P across.

Row 10: Sl1, K across.
Repeat Rows 9 and 10, 11 more times (12 repeats total, 24 rows total).

Heel Shaping:
Row 11: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue in this manner.
Row 12: Sl1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 13: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 14: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 15: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 16: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 17: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 18: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 19: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 20: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 21: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 22: Sl1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 23: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 24: Sl1, K15, K2tog, turn.
Row 25: Sl 1, P15, P2tog, turn.

Begin working in the round again. 
Row 26: K across heel flap, pick up and K 12 sts along first side of the heel. Work in Wavy Cable Rib Pattern across the two needles left unworked during the heel flap. Pick up and K 12 sts along second side of the heel. On the same needle, K 8 sts from the heel flap, leaving 9 heel flap stitches, splitting the sts from the heel flap between the two needles with the picked up sts. The needle starting with the 9 heel flap stitches is now the start of the round.

Gusset Shaping (decrease)

Round 27: Needle 1 – K across until last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
       Needle 2 – Work in Wavy Cable Rib Pattern.
       Needle 3 – Work in Wavy Cable Rib Pattern.
       Needle 4 – K1, SSK, K across.
 
Round 28: Needle 1 – K across.
       Needle 2 – Work in Wavy Cable Rib Pattern.
       Needle 3 – Work in Wavy Cable Rib Pattern.
       Needle 4 – K across.

Repeat Round 27 and Round 28 until there are 64 sts total (16 sts per needle).
 
Ankle
Continue working the Wavy Cable Rib Pattern across all needles until you reach approximately an inch less than your desired length.
 
Ribbing
K1, P1 across for about an inch.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

Posted on

Pattern: Braided Cable Trail Toe Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Pattern written for women’s size 8 socks, but it is easily customizable to fit any foot size. 

Materials:
Size 1 double pointed needles
(MC) 1 skein Lion Brand Sock-Ease in Toffee – this yarn is great and has aloe infused in it!
(CC) 1 skein Premier yarns, Deborah Norville Collection, Serenity Sock Weight in soft white
Cable hook, or if you’re feeling adventurous, I recommend watching this video to learn how to cable without the hook. It’s really convenient for knitting on the go with limited supplies.

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
Cn – cable needle
MC – main color
CC – contrast color

Braided Cable Knit Pattern:
This pattern repeats throughout the top of the sock, with the bottom of the heel and back of the ankle worked in stockinette stitch. Use the MC unless specifically noted to use the CC.

Row 1: P2, K6, P3, K3, K3 in CC, K3, P3, K6, P2.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: P2, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P3, sl 3 front, K3 in CC, K3 from cn, K3, P3, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P2.
Row 4: P2, K6, P3, K3 in CC, K6, P3, K6, P2.
Rows 5-6: Repeat Row 4.
Row 7: P2, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P3, K3 in CC, sl 3 back, K3, K3 from cn, P3, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P2.
Row 8: P2, K6, P3, K3 in CC, K6, P3, K6, P3.

Row 9-10: Repeat Row 8.
Row 11: P2, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P3, sl 3 front, K3, K3 in CC from cn, K3, P3, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P2.
Rows 12-14: Repeat Row 1.
Row 15: P2, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P3, K3, sl 3 back, K3, K3 in CC from cn, P3, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P2.
Row 16: P2, K6, P3, K6, K3 in CC, P3, K6, P3.

Rows 17-18: Repeat Row 16.
Row 19: P2, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P3, sl 3 front, K3, K3 from cn, K3 in CC, P3, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P2.
Rows 20-22: Repeat Row 16.
Row 23: P2, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P3, K3, sl 3 back, K3 in CC, K3 from cn, P3, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P2.
Row 24: Repeat Row 1.

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 8 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 16 sts on two needles (8 sts per needle). Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (12 sts)

Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle)


Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 7 and Round 8 until you have 60 sts total (15 sts per needle)

Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across 


At this point, you should have 62 sts total, with 16 sts on Needles 1 and 3, and 15 sts on Needles 2 and 4.

Foot:
For all foot rounds, work the Braided Cable Knit Pattern across Needles 1 and 2 and work the stockinette stitch across Needles 3 and 4. In other words, you will work the cable pattern over the top of the foot and stockinette stitch over the bottom of the foot.

Work the Braided Cable Knit Pattern 3 times for a size 8 woman’s foot. For other sizes, work until the sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (31 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked 
Use CC only

Row 11: Sl1, P across.

Row 12: Sl1, K3, P2, *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 11 and 12, 11 more times (12 repeats total, 24 rows total).

Heel Shaping:
Row 13: Sl1, P15, P2tog, P1, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue in this manner.
Row 14: Sl1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 15: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 16: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 17: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 18: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 19: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 20: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 21: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 22: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 23: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 24: Sl1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 25: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 26: Sl1, K15, K2tog. Do not turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 27: Still using CC, pick up and K 12 sts along first side of the heel. Switch to MC and work in pattern across the two needles left unworked during the heel flap. Pick up and K 12 sts along second side of the heel. On the same needle, K 8 sts from the heel flap, splitting the sts from the heel flap between the two needles with the picked up sts. This is now the start of the round.

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 28: Needle 1 – K across until last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
       Needle 2 – Work in Braided Cable Knit Pattern.
       Needle 3 – Work in Braided Cable Knit Pattern.
       Needle 4 – K1, SSK, K across.
 
Round 29: Needle 1 – K across.
       Needle 2 – Work in Braided Cable Knit Pattern.
       Needle 3 – Work in Braided Cable Knit Pattern.
       Needle 4 – K across.

Repeat Round 28 and Round 29 until there are 62 sts total. Two needles should have 15 sts and two needles should have 16 sts.
 
Ankle
Continue working the Braided Cable Knit Pattern across the front of the ankle and stockinette stitch across the back of the ankle until you reach your desired length.
 
Ribbing
In CC, K1, P1 across for about an inch.
Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.
Posted on

Pattern: Entrelac Seed Stitch Toe Up Socks

These entrelac toe up socks alternate using stockinette stitch and seed stitch. This pattern assumes you have a basic knowledge of how knitting entrelac works. I do not recommend you try this as your first attempt at entrelac because the heel especially can be a bit fiddly and confusing. Here is a helpful article that explains entrelac knitting with pictures.

Finished Measurements:
Comfortably fits a Size 8 women’s foot, though it can easily be adapted to fit other sizes.

Materials:
2 skeins Patons Kroy Sock Yarn in Rusty Stripes
Size 1 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Stitches:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
St – stitch
RS – right side
WS – wrong side

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 16 stitches
Row 1: P across
Row 2: K across
Row 3: P across
Row 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. K across 16 sts from the scrap yarn. Distribute 32 sts evenly along four needles, with 8 sts on each needle. Begin knitting in the round.

Rounds 5-6: K across
Round 7: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Rounds 8-9: K across
Round 10: Repeat Round 7 (40 sts total)

Entrelac
Begin working entrelac. Each triangle section is made out of 8 sts and there are 5 triangle sections in total per row (8 sts X 5 triangles = 40 sts. Yay math).

To make the foundation triangles:
Row 1: K2, turn.
Row 2: P2, turn.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.

Continue in this manner, adding a stitch on each K row, until you have K 8 sts total. Do not P across the 8 sts and do not turn. Rather, start with Row 1 again. Continue across until all 40 sts have been worked to make 5 triangle sections.

To make the next row of seed stitch triangles, with RS facing, pick up 8 sts along the section immediately to the left of the section just worked and work the following:
Row 5: *K1, P1.* Repeat from * to * until end, turn.
Row 6: *P1, K1.* Repeat from * to * until last st, SSK (using the last st in the row and the next st of the prior section, combining the triangles).
Repeat Rows 5-6 until all of the sts have been worked on the triangle. To make a new triangle, pick up sts from the previous row triangle to the right.
Continue in this manner until all triangles are worked.

To make the next row of stockinette stitch triangles, with WS facing, pick up and P 8 sts along the section immediately to the left of the section just worked.
Row 7: K across until the last st, SSK (using the last st in the row and the next st of the prior section, combining the triangles).
Row 8: P across.
Repeat Rows 7-8 until all of the sts have been worked on the triangle, being sure to end on a Row 7.
Continue in this manner until all triangles are worked.

Continue making rows, alternating between a garter stitch row and a stockinette stitch row. For a size 8 women’s foot, work 7 rows of triangles total, not including the foundation triangles. You can adjust the rows based on your foot size.

Heel
To make the heel, work only two triangles in each row before turning and starting a new row. Be sure to end the row with either Row 6 or Row 8 (depending on whether you are working the seed stitch or stockinette stitch triangle). Also, when starting a new row, you are attaching to the triangle from a few rows ago to make the heel turn. This means you’ll have a seed stitch triangle attaching to another seed stitch triangle on the turning row.

Work 4 rows of the heel.

Ankle
Once you finished the heel, continue working in the round as normal.
Work 6 rows of triangle, or until you reach approximately 2 inches less than your desired length.

To make the end foundation triangles, pick up 9 sts when starting a new triangle.
Row 9: K2tog, K across until last st, SSK (using the last st in the row and the next st of the prior section, combining the triangles).
Row 10: P across.

Repeat Rows 9 and 10 until you have 2 sts left on the current triangle and 1 st left on the triangle you’re combining it with. K2tog, pass the stitch just worked back onto the left needle, SSK (using the last st in the row and the next st of the prior section, combining the triangles).

This leaves one st remaining. Use this st as the additional st and pick up 8 sts along the next triangle. 
Continue in this manner until you have worked all triangles and only have one st remaining.

Edging
Pick up 60 sts evenly across the edge of the sock to make the brim.
Round 1: *K3, P1.* Repeat from * to * until end.
Repeat Round 1 for 1 1/2 inches, or until you reach your desired length.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

Posted on

Pattern: Vintage Ribbed Toe Up Socks

 

These vintage inspired socks are built for comfort with no ribbing on the bottom of the foot but ribbing that stretches on the rest of the sock.

Finished Measurements:
Pattern written for men’s size 13 socks, shown in the blue sock, but it is easily customizable to fit any foot size. The red/grey socks are for men’s size 9 socks.

Materials:
Size 0 double pointed needles
2 skeins Sensations Truly Pattern in Turq Pattern (fort the blue socks)
or 2 skeins Patons Kroy Socks, Ragg Shades in Grey Brown Marl (for the red/grey socks)
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Stitches:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).


Instructions:

Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 12 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (28 sts)

Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Increase until you have 40 sts total (10 sts per needle)


Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 72 sts total (18 sts per needle)


Foot:
Round 11: Needles 1 and 2 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * across.
        Needles 3 and 4 – K across

Repeat Round 11 until sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.


Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (36 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked for the heel flap

Row 12: Sl1, P across.

Row 13: Sl1, K3, P2, *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13, 14 more times (15 repeats total, 30 rows total).

Note: If you want to make the size smaller or larger than a men’s size 13 sock, then just measure it against your heel as you work. The heel flap should be the same length as your heel.

Heel Shaping:
Row 14: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue in this manner.
Row 15: Sl1, P1, K2, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 17: Sl1, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 19: Sl1, K1, P2, K4, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 21: Sl1, K2, P2, K4, P1, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 23: Sl1, K3, P2, K4, P2, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 24: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 25: Sl1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 26: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 27: Sl1, P1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 28: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 29: Sl1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 30: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 31: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K4. Using the same needle (called Needle 4), pick up 16 sts and work *K4, P2* pattern. Work *K4, P2* pattern along Needles 1 and 2. Using the last spare needle (called Needle 3), pick up 16 sts and work in the following: P1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K3. Using the same needle, work the following heel flap sts from Needle 4: K1, P2, K4, P2.


The stitches should be distributed along your needles in the following way:
Needle 1: 18 sts
Needle 2: 18 sts 
Needle 3: 25 sts (with the heel flap sts split down the middle)
Needle 4: 26 sts (with the heel flap sts split down the middle)

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 32: Needle 1 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 2 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 3 – Knit if the first st is a knit st, purl if the first st is a purl st, SSK, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across
       Needle 4 – Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts until the last 3 sts, K2tog, knit if the last st is a knit st, purl if the last st is a purl st.

Round 33: Needle 1 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 2 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 3 – Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across.
       Needle 4 – Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across.

Repeat Round 32 and Round 33 until there are 18 sts on each needle (72 sts total).

Leg
Continue working *K4, P2* pattern until you reach 1 inch below your desired leg length.

Ribbing:

*K1, P1* across all needles for 1 inch.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

Posted on

Pattern: Celtic Cable Toe Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Comfortably fits size 8 women’s sock, but easily adaptable to fit any adult shoe size.

Materials:

2 skeins Patons Kroy Socks FX in Camo Colors
Size 2 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Stitches:

K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
C4F (cable 4 front) – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B (cable 4 back) – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C2B (cable 2 back) – slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 1, then knit the 1 stitch from the cable needle.
Cr3L – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 1, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Cr3R – slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 1 from the cable needle.

Cr4L – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 2, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Cr4R – slip 2 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 2 from the cable needle.

An easy way to remember the stitches is to always have the purl stitches in the back of the knit stitches.


Celtic Knot Pattern:

Row 1: P2, K2, P1, (P2, C4B, P2) x 3, P1, K2, P2.
Row 2: P2, K2, P3, (K4, P4) X 2, K4, P3, K3, P1. 
Row 3: P2, C2B, P2, Cr3R, (Cr4L, Cr4R) x 2, Cr3L, P2, C2B, P2.
Row 4: (P2, K2) X 2, P3, K4, P4, K4, P3, (K2, P2) X 2.
Row 5: P2, K2, P1, Cr3R, P1, (P2, C4F, P2) x 2, P1, Cr3L, P1, K2, P2.
Row 6: P2, C2B, P1, K2, (P4, K4) X 2, P4, K2, P1, C2B, P2.
Row 7: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, (Cr4R, Cr4L) x 2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 8: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 9: P2, C2B, P1, (K2, P2) x 2, P2, C4B, P2, (P2, K2) x 2, P1, C2B, P2.
Row 10: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2
Row 11: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, (Cr4L, Cr4R) x 2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 12: P2, C2B, P1, K2, (P4, K4) x 2, P4, K2, P1, C2B,P2.
Row 13: P2, K2, P1, Cr3L, P1, (P2, C4F, P2) x 2, P1, Cr3R, P1, K2, P2.
Row 14: P2, K2, P2, K2, P3, K4, P4, K4, P3, K2, P2, K2, P2.
Row 15: P2, C2B, P2, Cr3L, (Cr4R, Cr4L) x 2, Cr3R, P2, C2B, P2.
Row 16: P2, K2, P3, (K4, P4) x 2, K4, P3, K2, P2.
Row 17: P2, K2, P1, (P2, K4, P2) x 3, P1, K2, P2.
Row 18: P2, C2B, P1, (P2, K4, P2) x 3, P1, C2B, P2.

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 8 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 16 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.


Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (20 sts)

Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Increase until you have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle)


Round 9: K across

Round 10: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 68 sts total (17 sts per needle)

Foot:

Round 11: Needles 1 and 2 – Work Celtic Knot Pattern
        Needles 3 and 4 – K across

Repeat Round 11 until you work all 18 rows of the celtic knot pattern twice.


Heel Flap:

Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (34 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked for the heel flap

Row 12: Sl1, P across.

Row 13: *Sl1, K1.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13, 11 more times (12 repeats total, 24 rows total).

Heel Shaping:

Row 14: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 14 sts remaining unworked).
Row 15: Sl1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 12 sts remaining unworked).
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 12 sts remaining unworked).
Row 17: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 10 sts remaining unworked). 
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 10 sts remaining unworked).
Row 19: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 8 sts remaining unworked).
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 8 sts remaining unworked).
Row 21: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 6 sts remaining unworked).
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 6 sts remaining unworked).
Row 23: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 4 sts remaining unworked).
Row 24: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 4 sts remaining unworked).
Row 25: Sl1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 2 sts remaining unworked).
Row 26: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 2 sts remaining unworked).
Row 27: Sl1, K15, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 28: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 29: K across 19 sts of heel flap. Using the same needle (called Needle 4), pick up and K8 sts along the heel flap. Work Celtic Knot Pattern along Needles 1 and 2. Using the last spare needle (called Needle 3), pick up and K8 sts along the other side of the heel flap.

Distribute sts along the needles as follows:
Needle 1: 17 sts (keep these as the same sts with the Celtic Knot Pattern)
Needle 2: 17 sts (keep these as the same sts with the Celtic Knot Pattern)
Needle 3: 17 sts
Needle 4: 18 sts

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 30: Needle 1 – work Celtic Knot Pattern
       Needle 2 – work Celtic Knot Pattern
       Needle 3 – K1, SSK, K across until end of needle
       Needle 4 – K across until last 3 sts of needle, SSK, K1

Round 31: Needle 1 – work rib pattern
       Needle 2 – work rib pattern
       Needle 3 – K across
       Needle 4 – K across

Repeat Round 30 and Round 31 until there are 14 sts each on Needles 3 and 4, leaving 17 sts each on Needles 1 and 2. (62 sts total). Note: since Needle 4 has one more st than Needle 3, you will decrease on Needle 4 for one more round than on Needle 3.

Leg
K across Needles 3 and 4 and work Celtic Knot Pattern on Needles 1 and 2 until you have worked the entire Celtic Knot Pattern twice.

Ribbing:

Rounds 32-37: K2, P2.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

Posted on

Pattern: Knotted Rib Toe-Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Fits men’s size 12/13 but is easily adapted to fit any foot size. If you want a smaller width, keep the st count in multiples of 6.

Materials:
Two (2) skeins Patons Kroy Socks in Slate Jacquard
Size 2 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sts – stitches
Inc – increase, knit into the front and back of the stitch
Yo – yarn over
K2tog – knit two sts together
P2tog – purl two sts together
Sl – slip stitch unworked from the left needle to the right
Pyoo yo and K2tog – on the right hand needle just worked, pass the first yo made over the second yo made and the K2tog stitch

Instructions:

Toe Shaping
Cast on 8 sts using the provisional cast on method.

Work back and forth across the same needle:
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across
Row 3: K across
Row 4: P across
Row 5: K across

Remove 8 live sts from the scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You will have 16 sts on two needles, 8 sts per needle. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 6: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * until the end. (20 sts)

Rounds 7-9: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
      Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

You should have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle).

Round 10: K across

Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
      Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 10 and Round 11 until you have 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Foot
Rounds 12 and 13 make up the repeating Knotted Rib pattern.

Round 12: *P2, K4.* Repeat from * to * until the end.
Round 13: *P2, K1, yo twice, K2tog, pyoo yo and K2tog, K1.* Repeat from * to * until the end. While this round uses increase and decrease stitches, it evens out and you should still have 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Repeat Rounds 12 and 13 until
 sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap
Work needles 1 and 2 ONLY, leave needles 3 and 4 unworked. You will not be working in the round for the heel flap and you will be working across needles 1 and 2 flat, turning your work after each row.

Row 14: *Sl 1, K1.* Repeat from * to * until the end.
Row 15: Sl 1, P across.
Row 16: Sl 1, K1, *K1, Sl 1* Repeat from * to * until the last 2 sts, K2.
Row 17: Sl 1, P across.

Repeat Rows 14-17 five (5) more times (6 times total).

Heel Shaping
Continue working on needles 1 and 2 ONLY.

Row 18: Sl 1, K15, K2tog, K1, turn (leave 11 sts unworked).
Row 19: Sl 1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn (leave 11 sts unworked).
Row 20: Sl 1, K4, K2tog, K1, turn (continue leaving sts unworked).
Row 21: Sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 22: Sl 1, K6, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 23: Sl 1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 24: Sl 1, K8, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 25: Sl 1, P9, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 26: Sl 1, K10, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 27: Sl 1, P11, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 28: Sl 1, K12, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 29: Sl 1, P13, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 30: Sl 1, K14, K2tog, turn.
Row 31: Sl 1, P14, P2tog, turn.

You should have 16 sts remaining (8 sts per needle). Continue working in the round.

Round 32: Needle 1 – K across
      Needle 2 – K across, pick up and K 14 sts along the length of the heel flap
      Needle 3 – work across in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work across in Knotted Rib pattern
Pick up and K 14 sts along the length of the other side of the heel flap and add it to Needle 1.

Your sts should be distributed as follows:
      Needle 1 – 22 sts
      Needle 2 – 22 sts
      Needle 3 – 15 sts (keep these as the same Knotted Rib pattern sts held aside during the heel flap and heel shaping sections)
      Needle 4 – 15 sts (keep these as the same Knotted Rib pattern sts held aside during the heel flap and heel shaping sections)

Gusset Shaping
Round 33: Needle 1 – K1, SSK, K across until end of needle
      Needle 2 – K across until last 3 sts of needle, SSK, K1
      Needle 3 – work in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work in Knotted Rib pattern


Round 34: Needle 1 – K across
      Needle 2 – K across
      Needle 3 – work in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work in Knotted Rib pattern


Repeat Rounds 33 and 34 until there are 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Leg
Work Knotted Rib pattern on all needles until you reach 1 inch less than the desired length.

Finish with 10 rows of K2, P2 ribbing.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.