A top down raglan sweater with colorful pops of color
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
SIZING
The pattern is designed to have 2 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).
(A) Bust Width: 31.5 (35, 39.5, 43, 47.5) (51, 55.5, 59.5, 63.5) inches or 80 (89, 100, 109, 121) (130, 141, 151, 161) cm
(B) Sleeve Length: 18.5 (19, 19, 19.5, 19.5) (20, 20, 20.5, 20.5) inches or 47 (48, 48, 50, 50) (51, 51, 52, 52) cm
(C) Total Length: 23 (23, 23, 23, 23) (23, 23, 23, 23) inches or 58 (58, 58, 58, 58) (58, 58, 58, 58) cm
(D) Yoke Length: 7.5 (8.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10) (11, 12, 13, 14) inches or 19 (22, 22, 24, 25) (28, 30, 33, 36) cm
(E) Waist Length: 16 (14.5, 15, 13.5, 13.5) (12.5, 11.5, 10.5, 9.5) inches or 41 (37, 38, 34, 34) (32, 29, 27, 24) cm
(F) Upper Sleeve Width: 11.5 (12.5, 13, 14, 15.5) (17.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5) inches or 29 (32, 33, 36, 39) (44, 48, 52, 55) cm
SUGGESTED NEEDLES
Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm circular needles
Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles
Size 1.5 (US), 2.50 mm circular needles
Size 1.5 (US), 2.50 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles
GAUGE
22 sts x 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch
NOTIONS
Stitch markers
Scrap yarn
Tapestry needle
SUGGESTED YARN
5 (6, 7, 7, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) skeins Hobbii Garland in Cloudbusting (MC)
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Muse (CC 1)
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Vinnie (CC 2)
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Cosmos (CC 3)
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Nye (CC 4)
1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Tadpole (CC 5)
Yarn Substitution: substitute with your favorite worsted weight yarn, or similar weight that gets you gauge. You’ll need 557 (627, 696, 768, 840) (916, 988, 1063, 1133) yards or 509 (573, 636, 702, 768) (838, 903, 972, 1036) meters in MC and 91 (102, 114, 126, 137) (150, 162, 174, 185) yards or 83 (94, 104, 115, 125) (137, 148, 159, 169) meters in each CC.
STITCH ABBREVIATIONS
BO – bind off
BOR – beginning of round
CC – contrast color
CO – cast on
K – knit
M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)
M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit,
bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)
MC – main color
P – purl
PM – place marker
Rd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
SM – slip marker
St(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
Pattern Notes
This raglan yoke sweater is knit from the top down and flat for the beginning of the yoke, then joined and knit in the round. You first work the yoke, which includes a front and back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When working increases on the yoke, you will work all increases in MC only.
When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to knit the collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.
Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.
Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.
It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.
COLORWORK PATTERN
Colorwork chart is worked across 20 repeats and from bottom to top, right to left
Worked Flat:
R1: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC1*
R2: *P1 in CC1, P1 in MC*
R3: *K1 in CC2, K1 in MC*
R4: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC2*
R5: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC3*
R6: *P1 in CC3, P1 in MC*
R7: *K1 in CC4, K1 in MC*
R8: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC4*
R9: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC5*
R10: *P1 in CC5, P1 in MC*
R11: *K1 in CC1, K1 in MC*
R12: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC1*
R13: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC2*
R14: *P1 in CC2, P1 in MC*
R15: *K1 in CC3, K1 in MC*
R16: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC3*
R17: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC4*
R18: *P1 in CC4, P1 in MC*
R19: *K1 in CC5, K1 in MC*
R20: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC5*
Worked in the Round:
Rds 1-2: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC1*
Rds 3-4: *K1 in CC2, K1 in MC*
Rds 5-6: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC3*
Rds 7-8: *K1 in CC4, K1 in MC*
Rds 9-10: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC5*
Rds 11-12: *K1 in CC1, K1 in MC*
Rds 13-14: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC2*
Rds 15-16: *K1 in CC3, K1 in MC*
Rds 17-18: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC4*
Rds 19-20: *K1 in CC5, K1 in MC*
INSTRUCTIONS
Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):
Using larger needles and MC, CO 66 (72, 72, 74, 80) (82, 82, 88, 88) sts.
R1: K4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4), PM, K12 (12, 10, 10, 12) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K34 (40, 44, 46, 48) (46, 46, 52, 52), PM, K12 (12, 10, 10, 12) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4)
R2: P across
For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:
R3: K1 in MC, Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, *K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM* until last marker section, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before end, K1 in MC. (8 sts increased)
R4: *P1 in MC, P in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, P1 in MC, SM* until last marker section, P1 in MC, P in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before end, P1 in MC.
Repeat R3-4 an additional 6 (7, 8, 9, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of 7 (8, 9, 10, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have 130 (144, 152, 162, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:
Right Front Panel: 12 (13, 14, 15, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Sleeve A: 28 (30, 30, 32, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Back Panel: 50 (58, 64, 68, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Sleeve B: 28 (30, 30, 32, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Left Front Panel: 12 (13, 14, 15, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
For Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:
R3: K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before end, K1 in MC. (12 sts increased).
R4: *P1 in MC, P in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, P1 in MC, SM* until last marker section, P1 in MC, P in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before end, P1 in MC.
Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, 2) (4, 6, 5, 7) times for a total of – (-, -, -, 3) (5, 7, 6, 8) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, 128) (154, 178, 172, 196) distributed as follows:
Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 12) (16, 20, 18, 22) sts
Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, 20) (26, 30, 28, 32) sts
Back Panel: – (-, -, -, 64) (70, 78, 80, 88) sts
Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, 20) (26, 30, 28, 32) sts
Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 12) (16, 20, 18, 22) sts
For ALL Sizes:
Yoke Increases (Worked in the Round):
You will begin working in the round. Using the backwards loop cast on method and in MC, CO 26 (32, 36, 38, 40) (38, 38, 44, 44) sts on your right needle. Cut yarn and slip the remaining sts onto the left needle until the next marker. This marker now becomes your BOR.
Rd 5: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1 in MC, SM*
Rd 6: *K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM.* (8 sts increased)
Rd 7: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1 in MC, SM*
Repeat Rds 6-7 an additional 15 (16, 18, 20, 30) (32, 33, 38, 39) times for a total of 16 (17, 19, 21, 31) (33, 34, 39, 40) repeats. You will now have 284 (312, 340, 368, 416) (456, 488, 528, 560) sts distributed as follows:
Sleeve A: 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts
Back Panel: 82 (92, 102, 110, 126) (136, 146, 158, 168) sts
Sleeve B: 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts
Front Panel: 82 (92, 102, 110, 126) (136, 146, 158, 168) sts
For Sizes M (L) ONLY:
Rd 8: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM.* (4 sts increased)
Rd 9: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1 in MC, SM*
Repeat Rds 8-9 an additional – (-, 0, 1, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of – (-, 1, 2, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have – (-, 344, 376, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:
Sleeve A: – (-, 68, 74, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Back Panel: – (-, 104, 114, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Sleeve B: – (-, 68, 74, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Front Panel: – (-, 104, 114, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
For Sizes XS (S) ONLY:
Rd 10: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1 in MC, SM*
Repeat Rd 10 a total of 3 (9, -, -, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats.
For ALL Sizes:
Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work Rd 10 until you reach your desired length.
Separate Sleeves from Body:
Rd 11 (Set up Round): Place 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts in MC, place marker for the new BOR, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern across 82 (92, 104, 114, 126) (136, 146, 158, 168) sts, place 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern across 82 (92, 104, 114, 126) (136, 146, 158, 168) sts. You will now have 172 (192, 216, 236, 260) (280, 300, 324, 344) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.
Body:
Rd 12: K in Colorwork Pattern
Repeats Round 12 for a total of 105 (95, 96, 88, 86) (78, 72, 64, 58) repeats, or until you are 1.5 inches less than your desired length.
Rd 13: Change to smaller needles. In MC only, K across
Rd 14-21: In MC only, *K1, P1*
Bind off using the tubular bind off.
Collar:
Using the smaller needles and MC, pick up and knit 108 (122, 128, 134, 120) (120, 120, 132, 132) sts along the collar and begin working in the round.
Rd 1-8: In MC only, *K1, P1*
Bind off using the tubular bind off.
Sleeves:
(Set up Round): Remove 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.
Rd 1-11 (9, 7, 6, 5) (4, 3, 3, 3): K in Colorwork Pattern
Rd 12 (10, 8, 7, 6) (5, 4, 4, 4): K2tog in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 2 sts before end, SSK in MC
Repeat Rds 1-12 (10, 8, 7, 6) (5, 4, 4, 4) an additional 9 (11, 13, 16, 19) (24, 28, 30, 33) times for a total of 10 (12, 14, 17, 20) (25, 29, 31, 34) repeats. You will now have 44 (44, 44, 44, 46) (46, 46, 50, 50) sts.
Repeat Rd1 for a total of 3 (6, 14, 11, 10) (8, 17, 13, 1) repeats, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.
Rd 13: Change to smaller needles. In MC only, K across
Rd14-21: In MC only, *K1, P1*
Bind off using tubular bind off and weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.
THANK YOU!
I hope you enjoyed making the Chex Pullover as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #ChexPullover – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!