A top down raglan sweater with pleats at the waist
Skill Level: Intermediate
SIZING
The pattern is designed to have 5 inches of positive ease at the bust and no ease at the waist. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 5 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).
(A) Width (at Bust): 34 (38.5, 42, 46.5, 50) (54.5, 58, 62.5, 66) inches or 86 (98, 107, 118, 127) (138, 147, 159, 168) cm
(A) Width (at Waist): 22.5 (24, 27.5, 29, 32.5) (37, 38, 42, 43) inches or 57 (61, 70, 74, 83) (94, 97, 107, 109) cm
(B) Sleeve Length: 19 (19, 19.5, 20, 20) (20.5, 20.5, 21, 21) inches or 48 (48, 50, 51, 51) (52, 52, 53, 53) cm
(C) Total Length: 20 (20, 20, 20, 20) (20.5, 21, 21.5, 21.5) inches or 51 (51, 51, 51, 51) (52, 53, 55, 55) cm
(D) Yoke Length: 8.5 (9, 9, 10, 9.5) (10.5, 11.5, 12, 13) inches or 22 (23, 23, 25, 24) (27, 29, 30, 33) cm
(E) Waist Length: 11.5 (11, 11, 10, 10.5) (10, 9.5, 9.5, 8.5) inches or 29 (28, 28, 25, 27) (25, 24, 24, 22) cm
(F) Upper Sleeve Width: 12.5 (13, 14, 15, 16.5) (18.5, 20.5, 21.5, 22.5) inches or 32 (33, 36, 38, 42) (47, 52, 55, 57) cm
SUGGESTED NEEDLES
Size 4 (US), 3.50 mm circular needles
Size 4 (US), 3.50 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles
Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm circular needles
Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles
GAUGE
22 sts x 32 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch
NOTIONS
Stitch markers
Scrap yarn
Tapestry needle
SUGGESTED YARN
4 (4, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) skeins Copenhagen Fibers Merino Light in Faelledparken (16) or 790 (900, 1008, 1116, 1230) (1354, 1454, 1597, 1698) yards or 722 (823, 922, 1020, 1125) (1238, 1330, 1460, 1553) meters of fingering weight yarn
4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (7, 7, 8, 8) skeins Copenhagen Fibers Silk Mohair in Hindbaersnitte (16) or 790 (900, 1008, 1116, 1230) (1354, 1454, 1597, 1698) yards or 722 (823, 922, 1020, 1125) (1238, 1330, 1460, 1553) meters of lace weight yarn
Yarn Substitution: substitute with your favorite sport weight yarn, or similar weight that gets you gauge. You’ll need 790 (900, 1008, 1116, 1230) (1354, 1454, 1597, 1698) yards or 722 (823, 922, 1020, 1125) (1238, 1330, 1460, 1553) meters
STITCH ABBREVIATIONS
BO – bind off
BOR – beginning of round
CO – cast on
K – knit
M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)
M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)
P – purl
PM – place marker
Rd(s) – round(s)
RS – right side
SM – slip marker
St(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
Pattern Notes
This raglan yoke sweater is knit using the two strands of yarn listed held together throughout the piece. The sweater is worked from the top down and flat for the beginning of the yoke, then joined and knit in the round. You first work the yoke, which includes a front and back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels.
When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to work the body of the sweater down to the waist. When you reach the waist and before the bottom ribbing, you work pleats in the front and back to cinch the waist together and finish with some ribbing. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to knit the collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.
Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.
Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated. It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.
INSTRUCTIONS
Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):
Using larger needles, CO 72 (76, 74, 78, 84) (86, 90, 94, 94) sts.
R1: K4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4), PM, K14 (16, 14, 14, 14) (14, 16, 16, 16), PM, K36 (36, 42, 46, 48) (50, 50, 54, 54), PM, K14 (16, 14, 14, 14) (14, 16, 16, 16), PM, K4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4)
R2: P across
For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:
R3: K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker section, K1, M1L, K until end. (8 sts increased)
R4: P across
Repeat R3-4 an additional 7 (9, 8, 9, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of 8 (10, 9, 10, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have 144 (164, 158, 170, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:
Right Front Panel: 13 (15, 14, 15, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Sleeve A: 32 (38, 34, 36, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Back Panel: 54 (58, 62, 68, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Sleeve B: 32 (38, 34, 36, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Left Front Panel: 13 (15, 14, 15, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
For Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:
R3: K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until end. (12 sts increased).
R4: P across
Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, 4) (4, 5, 6, 8) times for a total of – (-, -, -, 5) (5, 6, 7, 9) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, 156) (158, 174, 190, 214) as follows:
Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 16) (16, 18, 20, 24) sts
Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, 26) (26, 30, 32, 36) sts
Back Panel: – (-, -, -, 72) (74, 78, 86, 94) sts
Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, 26) (26, 30, 32, 36) sts
Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 16) (16, 18, 20, 24) sts
For ALL Sizes:
Yoke Increases (Worked in the Round):
You will begin working in the round. Using the backwards loop cast on method, CO 28 (28, 34, 38, 40) (42, 42, 46, 46) sts on your right needle. K across to the next marker. This marker now becomes your BOR.
Rd 5: K across
Rd 6: *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM.* (8 sts increased)
Rd 7: K across
Repeat Rds 6-7 an additional 16 (14, 19, 20, 30) (34, 37, 39, 40) times for a total of 17 (15, 20, 21, 31) (35, 38, 40, 41) repeats. You will now have 308 (312, 352, 376, 444) (480, 520, 556, 588) sts distributed as follows:
Sleeve A: 66 (68, 74, 78, 88) (96, 106, 112, 118) sts
Back Panel: 88 (88, 102, 110, 134) (144, 154, 166, 176) sts
Sleeve B: 66 (68, 74, 78, 88) (96, 106, 112, 118) sts
Front Panel: 88 (88, 102, 110, 134) (144, 154, 166, 176) sts
For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:
Rd 8: *K across until marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM.* (4 sts increased)
Rd 9: K across
Repeat Rds 8-9 an additional 0 (6, 4, 6, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of 1 (7, 5, 7, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have 312 (340, 372, 404, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:
Sleeve A: 66 (68, 74, 78, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Back Panel: 90 (102, 112, 124, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Sleeve B: 66 (68, 74, 78, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
Front Panel: 90 (102, 112, 124, -) (-, -, -, –) sts
For Sizes XS (S, M) (XL, 2XL) ONLY:
Rd 10: K across
Repeat Rd 10 an additional 11 (3, 3, -, 7) (7, -, -, –) times for a total of 12 (4, 4, -, 8) (4, -, -, –) repeats.
For ALL Sizes:
Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work Rd 10 until you reach your desired length.
Separate Sleeves from Body:
Rd 11 (Set up Round): Place 66 (68, 74, 78, 88) (96, 106, 112, 118) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, place marker for the new BOR, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, K across 90 (102, 112, 124, 134) (144, 154, 166, 176) sts, place 66 (68, 74, 78, 88) (96, 106, 112, 118) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, PM, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (3, 3, 3, 3) sts, K across 90 (102, 112, 124, 134) (144, 154, 166, 176) sts. You will now have 188 (212, 232, 256, 276) (300, 320, 344, 364) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.
Body:
Rd 12: K across
Repeats Round 12 for a total of 60 (58, 58, 50, 52) (50, 46, 46, 38) repeats, or until you are at your waist.
Pleats: (a video tutorial for working a box pleat is available here)
Rd 13: *K 21 (21, 26, 26, 31) (37, 36, 42, 41) sts. Work one Right Facing Pleat (instructions below).
Right Facing Pleat
Place 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts on one double pointed needle (Needle 1), place next 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts on a second double pointed needle (Needle 2), and leave remaining sts on your left needle (Needle 3). See Fig. 1. Fold Needle 2 on top of Needle 3 so the right sides are facing, and fold Needle 1 on top of Needle 2 so the wrong sides are facing. See Fig. 2. Knit the first st from each needle together until you have knit 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts. 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) (12, 14, 14, 16) sts decreased.
Figure 1.
Figure 2.
K1. Work one additional Right Facing Pleat. K2. Work one Left Facing Pleat (instructions below).
Left Facing Pleat
Place 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts on one double pointed needle (Needle 1), place next 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts on a second double pointed needle (Needle 2), and leave remaining sts on your left needle (Needle 3). See Fig. 3. Fold Needle 2 on top of Needle 3 so the wrong sides are facing, and fold Needle 1 on top of Needle 2 so the right sides are facing. See Fig. 4. Knit the first st from each needle together until you have knit 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts. 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) (12, 14, 14, 16) sts decreased.
Figure 3.
Figure 4.
K1. Work one additional Left Facing Pleat. K to next marker. SM.* Repeat from * to * across the next marker section. You will now have 124 (132, 152, 160, 180) (204, 208, 232, 236) sts after working the pleats.
Rd 14: K across
Ribbing:
Rds 15-44: *K1, P1*
Bind off using the tubular bind off.
Collar:
Using the smaller needles, pick up and knit 118 (126, 132, 142, 124) (128, 132, 140, 140) sts along the collar and begin working in the round.
Rd 1-10: *K1, P1*
Bind off using the tubular bind off.
Sleeves:
(Set up Round): Remove 66 (68, 74, 78, 88) (96, 106, 112, 118) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (6, 6, 6, 6) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.
Rds 1-9 (9, 7, 6, 5) (4, 3, 3, 3): K across
Rd 10 (10, 8, 7, 6) (5, 4, 4, 4): K2tog, K until 2 sts before end, SSK
Repeat Rds 1-10 (10, 8, 7, 6) (5, 4, 4, 4) an additional 12 (13, 16, 18, 22) (27, 32, 33, 36) times for a total of 13 (14, 17, 19, 23) (28, 33, 34, 37) repeats. You will now have 44 (44, 44, 44, 46) (46, 46, 50, 50) sts.
Repeat Rd1 for a total of 10 (4, 8, 15, 10) (12, 20, 20, 8) repeats, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.
Rds 11-20: *K1, P1*
Bind off using tubular bind off and weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.
THANK YOU!
I hope you enjoyed making the Pleat Pullover as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #PleatPullover – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!