A classic cardigan with a smooth i-cord edge
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
Sizing
The pattern is designed to have 2-3 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2-3 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).
(A) Bust Width:
32 (36.5, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56.5, 60.5, 64.5) inches or 81 (93, 102, 112, 122) (132, 144, 154, 164) cm
(B) Sleeve Length:
19.5 (19.5, 20.5, 20.5, 21) (21, 21, 21, 22) inches or 50 (50, 52, 52, 53) (53, 53, 53, 56) cm
(C) Total Length:
21 (21, 21, 21, 21) (21, 21, 21, 21) inches or 53 (53, 53, 53, 53) (53, 53, 53, 53) cm
(D) Yoke Length:
8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) (11, 11.5, 12, 12.5) inches or 22 (23, 24, 25, 27) (28, 29, 30, 32) cm
(E) Waist Length:
12.5 (12, 11.5, 11, 10.5) (10, 9.5, 9, 8.5) inches or 32 (30, 29, 28, 27) (25, 24, 23, 22) cm
(F) Upper Sleeve Width:
12.5 (13.5, 14, 15, 16.5) (18.5, 20, 21.5, 22.5) inches or 32 (34, 36, 38, 42) (47, 51, 55, 57) cm
GAUGE
18 sts x 24 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles with three listed yarns held together
NOTIONS
Stitch markers
Scrap yarn
7, ½ inch (1.27 cm) buttons
SUGGESTED NEEDLES
Size 5 (US), 3.75 mm circular needles
Size 5 (US), 3.75 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles
Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm circular needles
Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles
SUGGESTED YARN
4 (5, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) skeins Hobbii Alpaca Silk in Pearl Beach, or 658 (734, 803, 874, 966) (1061, 1150, 1234, 1331) yards or 602 (671, 734, 799, 883) (970, 1052, 1128, 1217) meters of fingering weight yarn
2 (2, 2, 2, 3) (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins Hobbii Soft Alpaca Lace in Beach Pebbles, or 658 (734, 803, 874, 966) (1061, 1150, 1234, 1331) yards or 602 (671, 734, 799, 883) (970, 1052, 1128, 1217) meters of lace weight yarn
2 (2, 2, 2, 3) (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins Hobbii Soft Alpaca Lace in Ecru Natural, or 658 (734, 803, 874, 966) (1061, 1150, 1234, 1331) yards or 602 (671, 734, 799, 883) (970, 1052, 1128, 1217) meters of lace weight yarn
If you would like to use one strand of yarn, instead of three strands held together, select a sport or DK weight yarn that achieves gauge and uses the same yardage as the Hobbii Alpaca Silk yarn listed above.
STITCH ABBREVIATIONS
BO – bind off
BOR – beginning of round
CO – cast on
K – knit
KFB – knit into the front and the back of the next stitch (increase)
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)
M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)
M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)
P – purl
PFB – purl into the front and the back of the next stitch (increase)
PM – place marker
R(d) – row (round)
RS – right side
Sl – slip the next stitch purlwise with the yarn held in the front
SM – slip marker
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
St(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
Pattern Notes
This raglan sweater is worked flat with the three listed yarns held together throughout, and from the top down. You first work an i-cord cast on edge, casting on two separate sections, each equal to half of the collar stitches and worked individually for the cast on. The first collar section is worked as a RS-facing panel with K sts, and the second collar section is worked as a WS-facing panel with P sts. The two panels are joined together in the first row after the cast on, being sure to have the WS of both panels facing for the first row after the cast on. This ensures you have a rolled i-cord edge on either side of the collar and the CO sts for both panels are touching at the nape of the neck.
You work the yoke, which includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. You work buttonholes into the body after the sleeve separation. The entire length of the cardigan edge is worked with an i-cord edge for a flush look.
When you finish the body, you work each sleeve individually. You finish by picking up stitches along the length of the collar and body panels to work a button band, including buttonhole placement.
Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.
Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.
It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.
INSTRUCTIONS
Collar Cast On:
Using the i-cord cast on and the larger needles, CO 36 (35, 37, 41, 43) (48, 48, 50, 51) sts. You can follow this tutorial from VeryPink Knits, or the following instructions to work an i-cord cast on. CO 3 sts, slip your working stitches from the right needle to the left needle. Making sure the working yarn is coming from the left most stitch on the left needle, KFB, K2, *slip the first 3 sts on your right needle to the left needle, KFB, K2.* Repeat from * to * until you have 36 (35, 37, 41, 43) (48, 48, 50, 51) sts. Cut yarn and hold these sts aside.
Using the i-cord cast on, CO 35 (35, 36, 41, 42) (48, 48, 50, 50) sts using the following instructions: CO 3 sts, slip your working stitches from the right needle to the left needle, making sure the working yarn is coming from the left most stitch on the left needle, PFB, P2, *slip the first 3 sts on your right needle to the left needle, PFB, P2.* Repeat from * to * until you have 35 (35, 36, 41, 42) (48, 48, 50, 50) sts. Cut yarn.
Turn your work so the RS is facing on both cast on edges, with the edges of each panel where you CO 3 sts to start are touching each other. The panels should be positioned on your needles so you begin to work the second panel then continue to work across and join the first panel.
(Set up Row 1): K5 (5, 5, 5, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), PM, 14 (12, 12, 12, 12) (20, 20, 20, 20), PM, 33 (36, 39, 48, 51) (46, 46, 50, 51), PM, 14 (12, 12, 12, 12) (20, 20, 20, 20), PM, K5 (5, 5, 5, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5).
(Set up Row 2): Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.
Yoke Increases:
For Sizes 2XL (3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:
R1: K2, M1L, K to 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K to 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L until last 2 sts, M1R, K2. (14 sts increased).
R2: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.
Repeat R1-2 an additional – (-, -, -, -) (4, 5, 5, 6) times for a total of – (-, -, -, -) (5, 6, 6, 7) repeats. You will now have – (-, -, -, -,) (166, 180, 184, 199) sts distributed as follows:
Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -,) (20, 23, 23, 26) sts
Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, -,) (30, 32, 32, 34) sts
Back Panel: – (-, -, -, -,) (66, 70, 74, 79) sts
Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, -,) (30, 32, 32, 34) sts
Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -,) (20, 23, 23, 26) sts
For Sizes ALL SIZES:
R3: K2, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker, K1, M1L, until last 2 sts, M1R, K2. (10 sts increased).
R4: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.
Repeat R3-4 an additional 8 (10, 12, 13, 14) (9, 10, 11, 11) times for a total of 9 (11, 13, 14, 15) (10, 11, 12, 12) repeats. You will now have 161 (180, 203, 222, 235) (266, 290, 304, 319) sts distributed as follows:
Right Front Panel: 23 (27, 31, 33, 35) (40, 45, 47, 50) sts
Sleeve A: 32 (34, 38, 40, 42) (50, 54, 56, 58) sts
Back Panel: 51 (58, 65, 76, 81) (86, 92, 98, 103) sts
Sleeve B: 32 (34, 38, 40, 42) (50, 54, 56, 58) sts
Left Front Panel: 23 (27, 31, 33, 35) (40, 45, 47, 50) sts
R5: K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker, K1, M1L, K until end. (8 sts increased).
R6: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.
Repeat R5-6 an additional 10 (10, 10, 11, 13) (14, 15, 17, 18) times for a total of 11 (11, 11, 12, 14) (15, 16, 18, 19) repeats. You will now have 249 (268, 291, 318, 347) (386, 418, 448, 471) sts distributed as follows:
Right Front Panel: 34 (38, 42, 45, 49) (55, 61, 65, 69) sts
Sleeve A: 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts
Back Panel: 73 (80, 87, 100, 109) (116, 124, 134, 141) sts
Sleeve B: 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts
Left Front Panel: 34 (38, 42, 45, 49) (55, 61, 65, 69) sts
R7: K across
R8: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.
Repeat R7-8 an additional 4 (4, 3, 3) (2, 2, 0, 0) times, or until you reach your desired body length before the sleeve separation.
Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work Rows 7-8 until you reach your desired length.
Separate Sleeve and Body Sections:
R12: K across 34 (38, 42, 45, 49) (55, 61, 65, 69) sts, remove marker, place 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts onto scrap yarn, remove marker, CO 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts, K across 73 (80, 87, 100, 109) (116, 124, 134, 141) sts, remove marker, place 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts onto scrap yarn, remove marker, CO 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts, K across 34 (38, 42, 45, 49) (55, 61, 65, 69) sts. You will now have 145 (164, 179, 198, 215) (234, 254, 272, 291) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.
Body:
R13: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.
R14: K across
R15: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.
If you would like to add length to the cardigan from the suggested measurements, continue working R14-15 until you added the desired additional length.
Buttonhole Rows:
R16: K until last 5 sts, BO 1, K to end.
R17: Sl 2, P2, CO 1, P to last 2 sts, sl 2.
Repeat R14-15 a total of 4 (4, 4, 4, 3) (3, 3, 3, 2) times, then work R16-17. Repeat this section until you have worked 7 buttonholes.
In R18, you will need to work 3 (2, 1, 0, 1) (0, 0, 2, 1) decrease(s) using K2tog to get a stitch count that is divisible by 4 plus 2 sts. Switch to the smaller needles.
R18: *K2, P2* until last 2 sts, K2.
R19: *P2, K2* until last 2 sts, P2.
Repeat R18-19 an additional 2 times. Bind off using the tubular bind off.
Sleeves:
(Set up Round): Remove 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.
Rds 1-7 (6, 5, 4, 4) (3, 3, 2, 2): K across
Rd 8 (7, 6, 5, 5) (4, 4, 3, 3): K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before end, SSK, K1
Repeat Rds 1-8 (7, 6, 5, 5) (4, 4, 3, 3) an additional 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) (24, 27, 29, 32) times. You will now have 32 (32, 32, 32, 34) (34, 34, 36, 36) sts.
Repeat Rd1 for 9 (7, 14, 20, 15) (15, 3, 25, 21) repeats, or until you reach your desired length. Use the i-cord bind off method to bind off.
Repeat for second sleeve.
Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Sew the CO sts of the collar at the nape of the neck together. Attach buttons on the left side of the button band, opposite the BO holes made. Block your garment.