Toe-up staggered rib socks make any yarn pop
ABOUT
Skill Level:
Intermediate
Pattern Notes:
Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.
These socks are worked from the toe-up and the length can be easily adjusted to fit the average woman’s foot.
When working the gusset shaping after finishing the heel flap, be sure to continue the Staggered Pattern from one needle to the next so it matches after the gusset decreases.
Stitch counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: Small (Medium, Large). See Size section below for more information about sizing.
COMPONENTS
Materials:
280 (300, 330) yards of fingering weight yarn
The pictured yarn is hand-dyed fingering weight yarn from Knit A Bit Crochet Away in Dried Hydrangea. Order your skein here!
Size 0 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn
Yarn Substitute: Stroll
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Size:
Size Small (Medium, Large)
Small: Adult Women’s US Size 6 and under
Medium: Adult Women’s US Size 7-9,
Large: Adult Women’s US Size 10 and over
Gauge:
24 sts x 38 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
STITCH ABBREVIATIONS
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip stitch as if to purl, unless otherwise indicated
WYIF – with the yarn in the front
WYIB – with the yarn in the back
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
BOR – beginning of round.
PATTERN REPEAT
Staggered Pattern:
Rounds 1-6: *K1, P1*
Round 7: K across
Rounds 8-13: *P1, K1*
Round 14: K across
INSTRUCTIONS
Toe Shaping:
Use the provisional cast on method to cast on 12 stitches
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Purl across
Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.
Round 5: *K2, Inc, K4 (add a needle) K4, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to *
Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Repeat Round 6 until you have 36 (40, 44) sts total, or 9 (10, 11) sts per needle
Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Repeat Rounds 7-8 until you have 48 (52, 56) sts total, 12 (13, 14) sts per needle
Rounds 9-10: K across
Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Repeat Rounds 9-11 until you have 60 (64, 68) sts total, 15 (16, 17) sts per needle
Foot:
Round 12: Needle 1 – work Staggered Pattern
Needle 2 – work Staggered Pattern
Needle 3 – K across
Needle 4 – K across
Repeat Round 12 until the sock fits from your toes to the bend in the top of your foot where your ankle starts.
Heel Flap:
Turn and work only across Needles 3 and 4 only (worked flat), leaving Needles 1 and 2 unworked.
Row 13: Sl1, P across, turn
Row 14: Sl 1, K1, *Sl1 as if to purl, K1,* turn
Repeat Rows 13 and 14 for a total of 24 rows.
Heel Shaping:
Row 15 (WS): Sl1 WYIF, P15 (16, 17), P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 16 (RS): Sl1 WYIB, K3, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 17 (WS): Sl1 WYIF, P4, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 18 (RS): Sl1 WYIB, K5, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Continue working the heel flap in this manner, working an additional stitch before the decrease stitch in each row. In other words, work until 1 st before the “gap” that gets created from the decrease stitch in the previous row before you work the decrease in this row. Continue in this manner until you end working a RS row and you have worked a decrease over all of the gaps. You should have 16 (18, 20) sts on your needle. Note: for the Small and Large sizes, you will not work a P1 at the end of the last WS row or a K1 at the end of the last RS row.
Gusset Shaping: (decrease)
Round 19: Begin working in the round again. Split the heel flap sts across two needles so you have 8 (9, 10) sts per needle. The space between these two heel flap needles now becomes the BOR. With the second heel flap needle (this needle now becomes Needle 1), pick up and K 12 sts along heel flap edge. Work across the next two needles (now Needles 2 and 3) in the Staggered Pattern. Using Needle 4, pick up and K 12 sts along the other heel flap edge, then K across remaining sts on Needle 4 until BOR.
Round 20: Needle 1 – Work Staggered Pattern across 15 (16, 17) sts, K to last 2 sts, K2tog
Needles 2-3 – Work Staggered Pattern
Needle 4 – SSK, K until 15 (16, 17) sts remain, work Staggered Pattern across remaining sts
Round 21: Needle 1 – Work Staggered Pattern across 15 (16, 17) sts, K to end
Needles 2-3 – Work Staggered Pattern
Needle 4 – K until 15 (16, 17) sts remain, work Staggered Pattern across remaining sts
Repeat Rounds 20 and 21 until you have 15 (16, 17) sts per needle.
Ankle:
Round 37: Work Staggered Pattern across all needles until you reach desired length, being sure to end on a Round 6 or Round 13 of the Staggered Pattern.
Bind off using Icelandic Bind Off (video tutorial available here).
Repeat pattern for second sock.
THANK YOU!
I hope you enjoyed making the Dried Hydrangea Socks as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #DriedHydrangeaSocks– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!