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Knitting Pattern: Fluffy V

A top down raglan sweater with a deep v-neck and double knit collar

Skill Level: Intermediate


Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Fluffy V below!
 
 

Sizing

The pattern is designed to have 2-3 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2-3 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:                        

33 (36.5, 40.5, 44.5, 49) (52.5, 57, 59.5, 63.5) inches or 84 (93, 103, 113, 124) (133, 145, 151, 161) cm

(B) Sleeve Length:                       

19.5 (19.5, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5) (21, 21, 21, 21) inches or 50 (50, 50, 50, 50) (53, 53, 53, 53) cm

(C) Total Length:                        

24.5 (24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5) (24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 24) inches or 62 (62, 62, 62, 62) (62, 62, 62, 61) cm

(D) Yoke Length:                       

8.5 (9.5, 11, 12.5, 12.5) (12.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15) inches or 22 (24, 28, 32, 32) (32, 34, 37, 38) cm

(E) Waist Length:                       

16 (15, 13.5, 12, 12) (12, 11, 10, 9) inches or 41 (38, 34, 30, 30) (30, 28, 25, 23) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width:            

12.5 (13.5, 14.5, 15, 16.5) (18.5, 20, 21, 22.5) inches or 32 (34, 37, 38, 42) (47, 51, 53, 57) cm

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 6 (US), 4.00 mm circular needles

Size 6 (US), 4.00 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED YARN

6 (6, 7, 8, 8) (9, 10, 11, 11) skeins Hobbii Upcycled Suri Alpaca in Ground Ginger (01), or 645 (720, 798, 873, 954) (1044, 1127, 1209, 1284) yards or 590 (658, 730, 798, 872) (955, 1031, 1106, 1174) meters of bulky weight yarn

GAUGE

14 sts x 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CO – cast on

K – knit

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)

k2togtbl – knit two stitches together through the back loop (decrease)

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

P – purl

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

s1wyif – slip one stitch with the yarn held in the front

SM – slip marker

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease)

St(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Pattern Notes

This raglan yoke sweater is knit from the top down and flat for the entire yoke. When you are done with the yoke increases, you will join in the round. The yoke includes a back body panel, two front panels, and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits and after you have shaped the v neck, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to work the double knit collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):

Using long tail cast on, CO 56 (58, 61, 63, 67) (72, 72, 81, 82) sts.

R1: K8 (8, 8, 8, 8) (8, 8, 8, 8), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 10) (14, 14, 16, 16), PM, K24 (26, 29, 31, 31) (28, 28, 33, 34), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 10) (14, 14, 16, 16), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 8) (8, 8, 8, 8).

R2: P across

For Sizes 2XL (3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

R3: K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until end. (12 sts increased).

R4: P across

 Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, -) (3, 4, 3, 4) times for a total of – (-, -, -, -) (4, 5, 4, 5) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, -) (120, 132, 129, 142) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (16, 18, 16, 18) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, -) (22, 24, 24, 26) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (44, 48, 49, 54) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, -) (22, 24, 24, 26) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (16, 18, 16, 18) sts

For ALL Sizes:

R5: K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker section, K1, M1L, K until end. (8 sts increased)

R6: P across

Repeat R5-6 an additional 16 (18, 19, 20, 23) (20, 22, 24, 25) times for a total of 17 (19, 20, 21, 24) (21, 23, 25, 26) repeats. You will now have 192 (210, 221, 231, 259) (288, 316, 329, 350) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 25 (27, 28, 29, 32) (37, 41, 41, 44) sts

Sleeve A: 42 (46, 48, 50, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 69, 73, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Sleeve B: 42 (46, 48, 50, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Left Front Panel: 25 (27, 28, 29, 32) (37, 41, 41, 44) sts

For Sizes M (L) ONLY:

R7: K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K to next marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K to next marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until end. (4 sts increased)

R8: P across

Repeat R7-8 an additional – (-, 0, 1, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of – (-, 0, 1, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have – (-, 225, 239, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, 29, 31, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, 50, 54, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: – (-, 67, 69, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, 50, 54, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, 29, 31, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For ALL Sizes:

R9: K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K to next marker, SM* until last marker section, K1, M1L, K until end. (2 sts increased)

R10: P across

Repeat R9-10 an additional 2 (3, 4, 6, 5) (4, 4, 5, 5) times for a total of 3 (4, 5, 7, 6) (5, 5, 6, 6) repeats. Repeat R9 one more time until the last stitch. You will now have 200 (220, 237, 255, 273) (300, 328, 343, 364) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 29 (32, 35, 39, 39) (43, 47, 48, 51) sts

Sleeve A: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Sleeve B: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Left Front Panel: 29 (32, 35, 39, 39) (43, 47, 48, 51) sts

Begin working in the round. Using the last st from the last R9 you worked and the first st at the beginning of the row, K2tog to join your v-neck. K across all marker sections until you reach where you joined your v-neck, K across to the next marker. This marker now becomes your BOR. Your sts should be distributed as follows:

Right Sleeve: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Left Sleeve: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Front Panel: 57 (63, 69, 77, 77) (85, 93, 95, 101) sts

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work even knit rounds until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 11 (Set up Round): Place 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, place marker for the new BOR, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2, 2), K across 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts, place 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, K across 57 (63, 69, 77, 77) (85, 93, 95, 101) sts. You will now have 119 (131, 140, 150, 160) (179, 195, 202, 215) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

Rd 12: K across

Repeat Round 12 a total of 72 (66, 60, 52, 52) (52, 46, 42, 38) times, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.

Rds 13-20: *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern.

Collar:

With the RS facing, using the circular needle and beginning at the bottom of the V and working up the left side first, pick up and knit 98 (106, 114, 120, 130) (126, 130, 148, 152) sts along the v-neck collar edge.

Using the cable cast on method, CO 6 sts to the left needle. You will work the double knit collar across this section of sts and will pick up 1 st every other row from the remaining 98 (106, 114, 120, 130) (126, 130, 148, 152) picked up sts on each R3 below and join it with a k2togtbl.

Double Knit R1: (set up row) *K1, CO 1 st onto right needle tip using backwards loop cast on method*x5, k2togtbl, turn.

Double Knit R2: *s1wyif, k1* to last st, s1wyif.

Double Knit R3: *k1, s1wyif*x5, k2togtbl, turn.

Repeat Double Knit R2-3 until you have worked across all picked up sts on the collar and you have 12 sts remaining (6 stitches plus the 6 double knot paired stitches). Using your right needle, pick up 6 sts on the bottom left side of the V in front of the sts you picked up so the collar overlaps at the lowest point of the V.

Graft the live collar sts together with the picked up sts, treating the two paired double knit stitches as one for grafting purposes.

Turn your sweater inside out and sew the cable cast on sts along the bottom right side of the V.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd 1-9 (6, 6, 5, 4) (4, 3, 3, 3): K across

Rd 10 (7, 7, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4): K2tog, K until 2 sts before end, SSK.

Repeat Rds 1-10 (7, 7, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4) for a total of 8 (10, 12, 14, 15) (19, 22, 23, 25) repeats. You will now have 28 (28, 28, 28, 30) (30, 30, 32, 32) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for a total of 10 (20, 6, 6, 15) (1, 8, 4, –) repeats, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.

Rds 11-18: *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern. Repeat for second sleeve. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Fluffy V as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #FluffyV – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Knitting Pattern: Side Cable Pullover

A raglan yoke sweater with textured cable knit sleeves

Skill Level: Intermediate


Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Side Cable Pullover below!

SIZING

The pattern is designed to have 2 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width: 32 (35, 39.5, 43.5, 48) (52, 54.5, 60, 63) inches or 81 (89, 100, 110, 122) (132, 138, 152, 160) cm

(B) Sleeve Length: 19 (19.5, 19.5, 20, 20) (20.5, 20.5, 21, 21) inches or 48 (50, 50, 51, 51) (52, 52, 53, 53) cm

(C) Total Length: 20 (20.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5) (21.5, 21.5, 22, 22) inches or 51 (52, 52, 53, 55) (55, 55, 56, 56) cm

(D) Yoke Length: 7.5 (8, 9, 9.5, 9.5) (10, 10.5, 11, 11.5) inches or 19 (20, 23, 24, 24) (25, 27, 28, 29) cm

(E) Waist Length: 12.5 (12.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12) (11.5, 11, 11, 10.5) inches or 32 (32, 29, 29, 30) (29, 28, 28, 27) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width: 12 (12.5, 13, 14, 15.5) (17, 19, 20, 21) inches or 30 (32, 33, 36, 39) (43, 48, 51, 53) cm

GAUGE

17 sts x 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Cable needle

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 7 (US), 4.50 mm circular needles

Size 7 (US), 4.50 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

SUGGESTED YARN

4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 7, 7) skeins Knitologie Swirl in Dance Party

          or 771 (848, 927, 1037, 1163) (1277, 1373, 1520, 1596) yards

          or 705 (775, 848, 948, 1063) (1168, 1255, 1390, 1459) meters of worsted weight yarn

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

C6B – place 6 sts onto a cable needle and hold them to the back, *K1B, P1* across 6 sts, *K1B, P1* across 6 sts held on cable needle

C6F – place 6 sts onto a cable needle and hold them to the front, *K1B, P1* across 6 sts, *K1B, P1* across 6 sts held on cable needle

CO – cast on

K – knit

K1B – (knit 1 below) insert your needle into the stitch below the next live stitch on your left needle and knit into this stitch

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

P – purl

P1B – (purl 1 below) insert your needle into the stitch below the next live stitch on your left needle and purl into this stitch

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

SM – slip marker

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease)

St(s) – stitch(es)

Wrp-tk – with the yarn in the back, slip the next stitch purl wise, bring the yarn to the front, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn

Wrp-tp – with the yarn in the front, slip the next stitch purl wise, bring the yarn to the back, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn

WS – wrong side

YO – yarn over; bring the working yarn to the front of your work and bring it over the top of the right needle

FISHERMAN’S RIB CABLE PATTERN

Worked across 24 sts

Rd 1: *K1B, P1*

Rd 2: *K1, P1B*

Rds 3, 5, 7: Repeat Rd 1

Rd 4, 6, 8: Repeat Rd 2

Rd 9: C6F, *K1B, P1*

Rd 10: Repeat Rd 2

Rd 11: *K1B, P1*

Rd 12: *K1, P1B*

Rds 13, 15, 17: Repeat Rd 1

Rd 14, 16, 18: Repeat Rd 2

Rd 19: *K1B, P1* across 12 sts, C6B

Rd 20: Repeat Rd 2

Pattern Notes

This raglan yoke sweater is knit from the top down and in the round. You first work the yoke, which includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. The back panel includes short rows near the back neckline. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. The pattern includes optional bust darts, including suggested spacing for each size and a description to customize bust darts based on your own measurements. You end by working each sleeve individually. The arm panels feature a fisherman’s rib cable pattern that carries down the entire sleeve.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

A Note About Beginning the Yoke and the Fisherman’s Rib

The ribbing for the Fisherman’s Rib should line up with the initial ribbing at the collar. The first time you work the Fisherman’s Rib, be sure to work a K/K1B into a knit stitch from the round before and a P/P1B into a purl stitch from the round before. Do not work the first cable in the Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until after you have worked the Ribbing Panel Marker Placement section and have 24 sts for the arm panel between two added markers to keep the fisherman’s rib consistent in the center of the arm panel.

A Note About Sleeve Increases

When working the sleeve increases, be sure to keep the Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern consistent as you add stitches, and use the stitch next to it to determine whether you should work a K or a P the first time you are working a new stitch.

If the stitch in the previous round was a M1R or M1L and the Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern calls for you to work a K1B or P1B, just do a K or a P stitch for that round only when you are first working the new stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

Collar:

Using long tail cast on and circular needles, CO 76 (80, 92, 100, 104) (104, 104, 112, 112) sts. PM for BOR and begin working in the round.

Rds 1-6: *K1, P1*

Short Rows:

Set up round: *K1, P1* across 12 (12, 12, 14, 18) (18, 18, 20, 20) sts, PM, K26 (28, 34, 36, 34) (34, 34, 36, 36), PM, *K1, P1* across 12 (12, 12, 14, 18) (18, 18, 20, 20) sts, PM, K26 (28, 34, 36, 34) (34, 34, 36, 36).

Turn your work so the WS is facing

R1: P to 3 sts before marker, wrp-tp, turn

R2: K to 3 sts before marker, wrp-tk, turn

R3: P to 3 sts before last wrapped stitch, wrp-tp, turn

R4: K to 4 sts before last wrapped stitch, wrp-tk, turn

Repeat R3-4 one additional time.  On the last R4, do not turn the work at the end. Begin working in the round again and K to the BOR. When you knit over the wrapped stitches, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the wrapped stitch.

Yoke Increases:

See A Note About Beginning the Yoke and the Fisherman’s Rib in the Pattern Notes

For Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

Rd 7: *K1, M1L, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM* (12 increases)

Rd 8: *K1, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1, SM, K across to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 7-8 an additional – (-, -, -, 2) (2, 2, 1, 1) times.

Ribbing Panel Marker Placement

Rd 9: *K1, PM, M1L, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, PM, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM* (12 increases)

Rd 10: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

 Rd 11: *K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM* (12 increases)

Rd 12: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 11-12 an additional – (-, -, -, 1) (3, 4, 5, 7) times. You will now have – (-, -, -, 176) (200, 212, 220, 244) sts distributed as follows:

Left Sleeve: – (-, -, -, 30) (34, 36, 38, 42) sts

Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 58) (66, 70, 72, 80) sts

Right Sleeve: – (-, -, -, 30) (34, 36, 38, 42) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, 58) (66, 70, 72, 80) sts

For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:

Rd 13: *K1, M1L, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (8 increases)

Rd 14: *K1, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1, SM, K across to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 13-14 an additional 5 (5, 5, 4, -) (-, -, -, –) times.

Ribbing Panel Marker Placement

Rd 15: *K1, PM, M1L, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, PM, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (8 increases)

Rd 16: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

For ALL SIZES:

Rd 17: *K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (8 increases)

Rd 18: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 17-18 an additional 12 (14, 15, 16, 17) (19, 21, 24, 24) times. You will now have 236 (256, 276, 284, 320) (360, 388, 420, 444) sts distributed as follows:

Left Sleeve: 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts

Front Panel: 66 (72, 80, 82, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts

Right Sleeve: 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts

Back Panel: 66 (72, 80, 82, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts

For Sizes L ONLY:

Rd 19: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (4 increases)

Rd 20: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 19-20 an additional – (-, -, 2, -) (-, -, -, –) times. You will now have 236 (256, 276, 296, 320) (360, 388, 420, 444) sts distributed as follows:

Left Sleeve: 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts

Front Panel: 66 (72, 80, 88, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts

Right Sleeve: 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts

Back Panel: 66 (72, 80, 88, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts

For Sizes XL (2XL) ONLY:

Rd 21: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 21 an additional – (-, -, -, 7) (2, -, -, –) times.

For ALL Sizes:

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, repeat Rd 21 until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 22 (Set up Round): Place 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, PM for the new BOR, CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, K across 66 (72, 80, 88, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts, place 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, PM, CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, K across 66 (72, 80, 88, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts. You will now have 136 (148, 168, 184, 196) (220, 236, 252, 268) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body with Bust Darts: (Optional)

Use this section if you would like to add bust darts to your sweater and make it more form fitting at the waist. For instructions on how to calculate and customize the bust darts to your particular size, please see the Pattern Notes about Adding Bust Darts.

Rd 23: (setup round) K13 (15, 18, 20, 22) (26, 29, 32, 34), PM for bust dart marker, K40 (42, 44, 48, 50) (54, 56, 58, 62), PM for bust dart marker, K across to next underarm marker, SM, K across

Rd 24: K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before bust dart marker, SSK, K1, K until next bust dart marker, SM, K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before underarm marker, SSK, K1, SM, K across.

Rd 25: K across

Repeat Rds 24-25 an additional 4 (6, 7, 8, 8) (8, 8, 10, 11) times. You will now have 116 (120, 136, 148, 160) (184, 200, 208, 220) sts.

Rd 26: K across

Repeat Rd 26 a total of 57 (52, 46, 43, 45) (43, 40, 36, 31) times, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd 27-32: *K1, P1*

Bind off in ribbing pattern.

Body without Bust Darts:

Rd 33: K across

Repeat Rd 33 a total of 67 (66, 62, 61, 63) (61, 58, 58, 55) times, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd 53-58: *K1, P1*

Bind off in ribbing pattern.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you bound off sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 2 (2, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd1-7 (6, 5, 5, 4) (4, 3, 3, 3): K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker

Rd8 (7, 6, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4): K1, K2tog, K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K until 3 sts before end, SSK, K1

Repeat Rds 1-8 (7, 6, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4) an additional 11 (13, 15, 16, 18) (22, 25, 28, 30) times. You will now have 30 (30, 30, 30, 32) (32, 32, 34, 34) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for a total of 9 (10, 12, 9, 16) (-, 10, 1, –) repeats, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd11-16: *K1, P1*

Bind off and weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Side Cable Pullover as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #SideCablePullover– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!