A top down raglan sweater with colorful pops of color

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

SIZING

The pattern is designed to have 2 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:  31.5 (35, 39.5, 43, 47.5) (51, 55.5, 59.5, 63.5) inches or 80 (89, 100, 109, 121) (130, 141, 151, 161) cm

(B) Sleeve Length: 18.5 (19, 19, 19.5, 19.5) (20, 20, 20.5, 20.5) inches or 47 (48, 48, 50, 50) (51, 51, 52, 52) cm

(C) Total Length: 23 (23, 23, 23, 23) (23, 23, 23, 23) inches or 58 (58, 58, 58, 58) (58, 58, 58, 58) cm

(D) Yoke Length: 7.5 (8.5, 8.5, 9.5, 10) (11, 12, 13, 14) inches or 19 (22, 22, 24, 25) (28, 30, 33, 36) cm

(E) Waist Length: 16 (14.5, 15, 13.5, 13.5) (12.5, 11.5, 10.5, 9.5) inches or 41 (37, 38, 34, 34) (32, 29, 27, 24) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width: 11.5 (12.5, 13, 14, 15.5) (17.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5) inches or 29 (32, 33, 36, 39) (44, 48, 52, 55) cm

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm circular needles

Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

Size 1.5 (US), 2.50 mm circular needles

Size 1.5 (US), 2.50 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

GAUGE

22 sts x 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED YARN

5 (6, 7, 7, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) skeins Hobbii Garland in Cloudbusting (MC)

1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Muse (CC 1)

1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Vinnie (CC 2)

1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Cosmos (CC 3)

1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Nye (CC 4)

1 (1, 1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) Hobbii Garland in Tadpole (CC 5)

Yarn Substitution: substitute with your favorite worsted weight yarn, or similar weight that gets you gauge. You’ll need 557 (627, 696, 768, 840) (916, 988, 1063, 1133) yards or 509 (573, 636, 702, 768) (838, 903, 972, 1036) meters in MC and 91 (102, 114, 126, 137) (150, 162, 174, 185) yards or 83 (94, 104, 115, 125) (137, 148, 159, 169) meters in each CC.

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CC – contrast color

CO – cast on

K – knit

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit,

bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

MC – main color

P – purl

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

SM – slip marker

St(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Pattern Notes

This raglan yoke sweater is knit from the top down and flat for the beginning of the yoke, then joined and knit in the round. You first work the yoke, which includes a front and back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When working increases on the yoke, you will work all increases in MC only.

When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to knit the collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

COLORWORK PATTERN

Colorwork chart is worked across 20 repeats and from bottom to top, right to left

Worked Flat:

R1: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC1*

R2: *P1 in CC1, P1 in MC*

R3: *K1 in CC2, K1 in MC*

R4: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC2*

R5: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC3*

R6: *P1 in CC3, P1 in MC*

R7: *K1 in CC4, K1 in MC*

R8: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC4*

R9: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC5*

R10: *P1 in CC5, P1 in MC*

R11: *K1 in CC1, K1 in MC*

R12: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC1*

R13: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC2*

R14: *P1 in CC2, P1 in MC*

R15: *K1 in CC3, K1 in MC*

R16: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC3*

R17: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC4*

R18: *P1 in CC4, P1 in MC*

R19: *K1 in CC5, K1 in MC*

R20: *P1 in MC, P1 in CC5*

Worked in the Round:

Rds 1-2: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC1*

Rds 3-4: *K1 in CC2, K1 in MC*

Rds 5-6: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC3*

Rds 7-8: *K1 in CC4, K1 in MC*

Rds 9-10: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC5*

Rds 11-12: *K1 in CC1, K1 in MC*

Rds 13-14: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC2*

Rds 15-16: *K1 in CC3, K1 in MC*

Rds 17-18: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC4*

Rds 19-20: *K1 in CC5, K1 in MC*

INSTRUCTIONS

Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):

Using larger needles and MC, CO 66 (72, 72, 74, 80) (82, 82, 88, 88) sts.

R1: K4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4), PM, K12 (12, 10, 10, 12) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K34 (40, 44, 46, 48) (46, 46, 52, 52), PM, K12 (12, 10, 10, 12) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4)

R2: P across

For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:

R3: K1 in MC, Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, *K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM* until last marker section, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before end, K1 in MC. (8 sts increased)

R4: *P1 in MC, P in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, P1 in MC, SM* until last marker section, P1 in MC, P in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before end, P1 in MC.

Repeat R3-4 an additional 6 (7, 8, 9, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of 7 (8, 9, 10, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have 130 (144, 152, 162, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 12 (13, 14, 15, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve A: 28 (30, 30, 32, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: 50 (58, 64, 68, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: 28 (30, 30, 32, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Left Front Panel: 12 (13, 14, 15, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

R3: K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before end, K1 in MC. (12 sts increased).

R4: *P1 in MC, P in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, P1 in MC, SM* until last marker section, P1 in MC, P in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before end, P1 in MC.

Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, 2) (4, 6, 5, 7) times for a total of – (-, -, -, 3) (5, 7, 6, 8) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, 128) (154, 178, 172, 196) distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 12) (16, 20, 18, 22) sts            

Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, 20) (26, 30, 28, 32) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, 64) (70, 78, 80, 88) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, 20) (26, 30, 28, 32) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 12) (16, 20, 18, 22) sts

For ALL Sizes:

Yoke Increases (Worked in the Round):

You will begin working in the round. Using the backwards loop cast on method and in MC, CO 26 (32, 36, 38, 40) (38, 38, 44, 44) sts on your right needle. Cut yarn and slip the remaining sts onto the left needle until the next marker. This marker now becomes your BOR.

Rd 5: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1 in MC, SM*

Rd 6: *K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM.* (8 sts increased)

Rd 7: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1 in MC, SM*

Repeat Rds 6-7 an additional 15 (16, 18, 20, 30) (32, 33, 38, 39) times for a total of 16 (17, 19, 21, 31) (33, 34, 39, 40) repeats. You will now have 284 (312, 340, 368, 416) (456, 488, 528, 560) sts distributed as follows:

Sleeve A: 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts

Back Panel: 82 (92, 102, 110, 126) (136, 146, 158, 168) sts

Sleeve B: 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts

Front Panel: 82 (92, 102, 110, 126) (136, 146, 158, 168) sts

For Sizes M (L) ONLY:

Rd 8: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, SM, K1 in MC, M1L, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1 in MC, SM.* (4 sts increased)

Rd 9: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1 in MC, SM*

Repeat Rds 8-9 an additional – (-, 0, 1, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of – (-, 1, 2, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have – (-, 344, 376, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Sleeve A: – (-, 68, 74, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: – (-, 104, 114, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, 68, 74, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Front Panel: – (-, 104, 114, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For Sizes XS (S) ONLY:

Rd 10: *K1 in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1 in MC, SM*

Repeat Rd 10 a total of 3 (9, -, -, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats.

For ALL Sizes:

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work Rd 10 until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 11 (Set up Round): Place 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts in MC, place marker for the new BOR, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern across 82 (92, 104, 114, 126) (136, 146, 158, 168) sts, place 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern across 82 (92, 104, 114, 126) (136, 146, 158, 168) sts. You will now have 172 (192, 216, 236, 260) (280, 300, 324, 344) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

Rd 12: K in Colorwork Pattern

Repeats Round 12 for a total of 105 (95, 96, 88, 86) (78, 72, 64, 58) repeats, or until you are 1.5 inches less than your desired length.

Rd 13: Change to smaller needles. In MC only, K across

Rd 14-21: In MC only, *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off.

Collar:

Using the smaller needles and MC, pick up and knit 108 (122, 128, 134, 120) (120, 120, 132, 132) sts along the collar and begin working in the round.

Rd 1-8: In MC only, *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 60 (64, 68, 74, 82) (92, 98, 106, 112) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd 1-11 (9, 7, 6, 5) (4, 3, 3, 3): K in Colorwork Pattern

Rd 12 (10, 8, 7, 6) (5, 4, 4, 4): K2tog in MC, K in Colorwork Pattern until 2 sts before end, SSK in MC

Repeat Rds 1-12 (10, 8, 7, 6) (5, 4, 4, 4) an additional 9 (11, 13, 16, 19) (24, 28, 30, 33) times for a total of 10 (12, 14, 17, 20) (25, 29, 31, 34) repeats. You will now have 44 (44, 44, 44, 46) (46, 46, 50, 50) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for a total of 3 (6, 14, 11, 10) (8, 17, 13, 1) repeats, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.

Rd 13: Change to smaller needles. In MC only, K across

Rd14-21: In MC only, *K1, P1*

Bind off using tubular bind off and weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Chex Pullover as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #ChexPullover – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

A top down raglan tee with colorful, ridged stripes

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Sizing

The pattern is designed to have 2 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:

31 (35.5, 39, 43.5, 47) (51, 55, 58.5, 63.5) inches or 79 (90, 99, 110, 119) (130, 140, 149, 161) cm

(B) Total Length:

20 (20.5, 20.5, 22, 23.5) (23, 23.5, 24.5, 25) inches or 51 (52, 52, 56, 60) (58, 60, 62, 64) cm

(C) Yoke Length:

7 (7.5, 7.5, 9, 10.5) (10, 10.5, 11.5, 12) inches or 18 (19, 19, 23, 27) (25, 27, 29, 30) cm

(D) Waist Length:

13 (13, 13, 13, 13) (13, 13, 13, 13) inches or 33 (33, 33, 33, 33) (33, 33, 33, 33) cm

(E) Upper Sleeve Width:

12 (12, 13, 14, 16) (18.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5) inches or 30 (30, 33, 36, 41) (47, 48, 52, 55) cm

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 2 (US), 2.75 mm circular needles

Size 2 (US), 2.75 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

GAUGE

21 sts x 31 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED YARN

4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (7, 7, 8, 8) skeins Hobbii Olivin in Sand (MC)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Rose (CC 1)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Denim (CC 2)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Sage (CC 3)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Rust (CC 4)

1 skein Hobbii Olivin in Gray (CC 5)

Yarn Substitution: substitute with your favorite sport weight yarn, or similar weight that gets you gauge. You’ll need 502 (566, 625, 693, 756) (828, 891, 959, 1019) yards or 459 (517, 572, 634, 691) (757, 815, 877, 932) meters in MC and 12 (14, 15, 17, 18) (20, 21, 23, 24) yards or 11 (12, 14, 16, 16) (18, 19, 21, 22) meters in each CC.

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

 BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CC – contrast color

CO – cast on

K – knit

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

MC – main color

P – purl

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

SM – slip marker

St(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Pattern Notes

This raglan yoke tee is knit from the top down and flat for the beginning of the yoke, then joined and knit in the round. You first work the yoke, which includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to knit the collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):

Using long tail cast on and using MC, CO 62 (59, 64, 68, 70) (74, 74, 76, 76) sts.

R1: K3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3), PM, K12 (8, 10, 10, 10) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K32 (37, 38, 42, 44) (40, 40, 42, 42), PM, K12 (8, 10, 10, 10) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3)

R2: P across

For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:

R3: K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker section, K1, M1L, K until end. (8 sts increased)

R4: P across

Repeat R3-4 an additional 6 (7, 7, 8, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of 7 (8, 8, 9, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have 126 (131, 136, 148, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 11 (12, 12, 13, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve A: 28 (26, 28, 30, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: 48 (55, 56, 62, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: 28 (26, 28, 30, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Left Front Panel: 11 (12, 12, 13, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

R3: K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until end. (12 sts increased).

R4: P across

Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, 1) (4, 6, 7, 9) times for a total of – (-, -, -, 2) (5, 7, 8, 10) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, 106) (146, 170, 184, 208) distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 9) (15, 19, 21, 25) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, 16) (26, 30, 32, 36) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, 56) (64, 72, 78, 86) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, 16) (26, 30, 32, 36) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 9) (15, 19, 21, 25) sts

For ALL Sizes:

Yoke Increases (Worked in the Round):

You will begin working in the round. Using the backwards loop cast on method, CO 26 (31, 32, 36, 38) (34, 34, 36, 36) sts on your right needle and K across to the first marker to join the round. This marker now becomes your BOR.

Rd 5: K across

Rd 6: *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM.* (8 sts increased)

Rd 7: K across

Repeat Rds 6-7 an additional 14 (16, 17, 19, 31) (32, 32, 34, 35) times for a total of 15 (17, 18, 20, 32) (33, 33, 35, 36) repeats. You will now have 272 (298, 312, 344, 400) (444, 468, 500, 532) sts distributed as follows:

Sleeve A: 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts

Back Panel: 78 (89, 92, 102, 120) (130, 138, 148, 158) sts

Sleeve B: 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts

Front Panel: 78 (89, 92, 102, 120) (130, 138, 148, 158) sts

For Sizes M (L) ONLY:

Rd 8: *K to marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM.* (4 sts increased)

Rd 9: K across

Repeat Rds 8-9 an additional – (-, 2, 3, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of – (-, 3, 4, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have – (-, 324, 360, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Sleeve A: – (-, 64, 70, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: – (-, 98, 110, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, 64, 70, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Front Panel: – (-, 98, 110, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For Sizes XS (S, M) ONLY:

Rd 10: K across

Repeat Rd 10 a total of 10 (8, 4, -, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats.

For ALL Sizes:

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work Rd 10 until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 11 (Set up Round): Place 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) sts, place marker for the new BOR, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3), K across 78 (89, 98, 110, 120) (130, 138, 148, 158) sts, place 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 6, 6, 6) sts, K across 78 (89, 98, 110, 120) (130, 138, 148, 158) sts. You will now have 164 (186, 204, 228, 248) (268, 288, 308, 328) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

Rd 12: K across

Rd 13: In CC1, K across

Rd 14: In CC1, P across

Rds 15-22: In MC, K across

Rd 23: In CC2, K across

Rd 24: In CC2, P across

Rds 25-32: In MC, K across

Rd 33: In CC3, K across

Rd 34: In CC3, P across

Rds 35-42: In MC, K across

Rd 43: In CC4, K across

Rd 44: In CC4, P across

Rds 45-52: In MC, K across

Rd 53: In CC5, K across

Rd 54: In CC5, P across

Rds 55-62: In MC, K across

Repeats Rounds 13-62 one more time. Bind off in MC and using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here) until the last 3 sts. Using a separate needle, pick up 3 sts along the edge of the CO stitches at the beginning of the round. Holding the two needles together, graft the 3 sts at the end of the round to the 3 picked up sts at the beginning of the round.

Collar:

Using the circular needle and MC, pick up and knit 104 (108, 114, 124, 108) (108, 108, 112, 112) sts along the collar and begin working in the round. Bind off using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here) until the last 3 sts. Using a separate needle, pick up 3 sts along the edge of the CO stitches at the beginning of the round. Holding the two needles together, graft the 3 sts at the end of the round to the 3 picked up sts at the beginning of the round.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 58 (60, 64, 70, 80) (92, 96, 102, 108) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 6, 6, 6) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd 1-5: In MC, K across

Bind off using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here) until the last 3 sts. Using a separate needle, pick up 3 sts along the edge of the CO stitches at the beginning of the round. Holding the two needles together, graft the 3 sts at the end of the round to the 3 picked up sts at the beginning of the round.

Repeat for second sleeve. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Striped T as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #StripedT – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

A classic cardigan with a smooth i-cord edge

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Sizing

The pattern is designed to have 2-3 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2-3 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:

32 (36.5, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56.5, 60.5, 64.5) inches or  81 (93, 102, 112, 122) (132, 144, 154, 164) cm

(B) Sleeve Length:

19.5 (19.5, 20.5, 20.5, 21) (21, 21, 21, 22) inches or 50 (50, 52, 52, 53) (53, 53, 53, 56) cm

(C) Total Length:

21 (21, 21, 21, 21) (21, 21, 21, 21) inches or 53 (53, 53, 53, 53) (53, 53, 53, 53) cm

(D) Yoke Length:

8.5 (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) (11, 11.5, 12, 12.5) inches or 22 (23, 24, 25, 27) (28, 29, 30, 32) cm

(E) Waist Length:

12.5 (12, 11.5, 11, 10.5) (10, 9.5, 9, 8.5) inches or 32 (30, 29, 28, 27) (25, 24, 23, 22) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width:

12.5 (13.5, 14, 15, 16.5) (18.5, 20, 21.5, 22.5) inches or 32 (34, 36, 38, 42) (47, 51, 55, 57) cm

GAUGE

18 sts x 24 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles with three listed yarns held together

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

7, ½ inch (1.27 cm) buttons

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 5 (US), 3.75 mm circular needles

Size 5 (US), 3.75 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm circular needles

Size 3 (US), 3.25 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

SUGGESTED YARN

4 (5, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) skeins Hobbii Alpaca Silk in Pearl Beach, or 658 (734, 803, 874, 966) (1061, 1150, 1234, 1331) yards or 602 (671, 734, 799, 883) (970, 1052, 1128, 1217) meters of fingering weight yarn

2 (2, 2, 2, 3) (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins Hobbii Soft Alpaca Lace in Beach Pebbles, or 658 (734, 803, 874, 966) (1061, 1150, 1234, 1331) yards or 602 (671, 734, 799, 883) (970, 1052, 1128, 1217) meters of lace weight yarn

2 (2, 2, 2, 3) (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins Hobbii Soft Alpaca Lace in Ecru Natural, or 658 (734, 803, 874, 966) (1061, 1150, 1234, 1331) yards or 602 (671, 734, 799, 883) (970, 1052, 1128, 1217) meters of lace weight yarn

If you would like to use one strand of yarn, instead of three strands held together, select a sport or DK weight yarn that achieves gauge and uses the same yardage as the Hobbii Alpaca Silk yarn listed above.

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CO – cast on

K – knit

KFB – knit into the front and the back of the next stitch (increase)

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

P – purl

PFB – purl into the front and the back of the next stitch (increase)

PM – place marker

R(d) – row (round)

RS – right side

Sl – slip the next stitch purlwise with the yarn held in the front

SM – slip marker

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).

St(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Pattern Notes

This raglan sweater is worked flat with the three listed yarns held together throughout, and from the top down. You first work an i-cord cast on edge, casting on two separate sections, each equal to half of the collar stitches and worked individually for the cast on. The first collar section is worked as a RS-facing panel with K sts, and the second collar section is worked as a WS-facing panel with P sts. The two panels are joined together in the first row after the cast on, being sure to have the WS of both panels facing for the first row after the cast on. This ensures you have a rolled i-cord edge on either side of the collar and the CO sts for both panels are touching at the nape of the neck.

You work the yoke, which includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. You work buttonholes into the body after the sleeve separation. The entire length of the cardigan edge is worked with an i-cord edge for a flush look.

When you finish the body, you work each sleeve individually. You finish by picking up stitches along the length of the collar and body panels to work a button band, including buttonhole placement.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Collar Cast On:

Using the i-cord cast on and the larger needles, CO 36 (35, 37, 41, 43) (48, 48, 50, 51) sts. You can follow this tutorial from VeryPink Knits, or the following instructions to work an i-cord cast on. CO 3 sts, slip your working stitches from the right needle to the left needle. Making sure the working yarn is coming from the left most stitch on the left needle, KFB, K2, *slip the first 3 sts on your right needle to the left needle, KFB, K2.* Repeat from * to * until you have 36 (35, 37, 41, 43) (48, 48, 50, 51) sts. Cut yarn and hold these sts aside.

Using the i-cord cast on, CO 35 (35, 36, 41, 42) (48, 48, 50, 50) sts using the following instructions: CO 3 sts, slip your working stitches from the right needle to the left needle, making sure the working yarn is coming from the left most stitch on the left needle, PFB, P2, *slip the first 3 sts on your right needle to the left needle, PFB, P2.* Repeat from * to * until you have 35 (35, 36, 41, 42) (48, 48, 50, 50) sts. Cut yarn.

Turn your work so the RS is facing on both cast on edges, with the edges of each panel where you CO 3 sts to start are touching each other. The panels should be positioned on your needles so you begin to work the second panel then continue to work across and join the first panel.

(Set up Row 1): K5 (5, 5, 5, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), PM, 14 (12, 12, 12, 12) (20, 20, 20, 20), PM, 33 (36, 39, 48, 51) (46, 46, 50, 51), PM, 14 (12, 12, 12, 12) (20, 20, 20, 20), PM, K5 (5, 5, 5, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5).

(Set up Row 2): Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.

Yoke Increases:

For Sizes 2XL (3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

R1: K2, M1L, K to 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K to 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L until last 2 sts, M1R, K2. (14 sts increased).

R2: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.

Repeat R1-2 an additional – (-, -, -, -) (4, 5, 5, 6) times for a total of – (-, -, -, -) (5, 6, 6, 7) repeats. You will now have – (-, -, -, -,) (166, 180, 184, 199) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -,) (20, 23, 23, 26) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, -,) (30, 32, 32, 34) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, -,) (66, 70, 74, 79) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, -,) (30, 32, 32, 34) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -,) (20, 23, 23, 26) sts

For Sizes ALL SIZES:

R3: K2, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker, K1, M1L, until last 2 sts, M1R, K2. (10 sts increased).

R4: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.

Repeat R3-4 an additional 8 (10, 12, 13, 14) (9, 10, 11, 11) times for a total of 9 (11, 13, 14, 15) (10, 11, 12, 12) repeats. You will now have 161 (180, 203, 222, 235) (266, 290, 304, 319) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 23 (27, 31, 33, 35) (40, 45, 47, 50) sts

Sleeve A: 32 (34, 38, 40, 42) (50, 54, 56, 58) sts

Back Panel: 51 (58, 65, 76, 81) (86, 92, 98, 103) sts

Sleeve B: 32 (34, 38, 40, 42) (50, 54, 56, 58) sts

Left Front Panel: 23 (27, 31, 33, 35) (40, 45, 47, 50) sts

R5: K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, *K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker, K1, M1L, K until end. (8 sts increased).

R6: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.

Repeat R5-6 an additional 10 (10, 10, 11, 13) (14, 15, 17, 18) times for a total of 11 (11, 11, 12, 14) (15, 16, 18, 19) repeats. You will now have 249 (268, 291, 318, 347) (386, 418, 448, 471) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 34 (38, 42, 45, 49) (55, 61, 65, 69) sts

Sleeve A: 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts

Back Panel: 73 (80, 87, 100, 109) (116, 124, 134, 141) sts

Sleeve B: 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts

Left Front Panel: 34 (38, 42, 45, 49) (55, 61, 65, 69) sts

R7: K across

R8: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.

Repeat R7-8 an additional 4 (4, 3, 3) (2, 2, 0, 0) times, or until you reach your desired body length before the sleeve separation.

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work Rows 7-8 until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeve and Body Sections:

R12: K across 34 (38, 42, 45, 49) (55, 61, 65, 69) sts, remove marker, place 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts onto scrap yarn, remove marker, CO 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts, K across 73 (80, 87, 100, 109) (116, 124, 134, 141) sts, remove marker, place 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts onto scrap yarn, remove marker, CO 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts, K across 34 (38, 42, 45, 49) (55, 61, 65, 69) sts. You will now have 145 (164, 179, 198, 215) (234, 254, 272, 291) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

R13: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.

R14: K across

R15: Sl 2, P across to last 2 sts, sl 2.

If you would like to add length to the cardigan from the suggested measurements, continue working R14-15 until you added the desired additional length.

Buttonhole Rows:

R16: K until last 5 sts, BO 1, K to end.

R17: Sl 2, P2, CO 1, P to last 2 sts, sl 2.

Repeat R14-15 a total of 4 (4, 4, 4, 3) (3, 3, 3, 2) times, then work R16-17. Repeat this section until you have worked 7 buttonholes.

In R18, you will need to work 3 (2, 1, 0, 1) (0, 0, 2, 1) decrease(s) using K2tog to get a stitch count that is divisible by 4 plus 2 sts. Switch to the smaller needles.

R18: *K2, P2* until last 2 sts, K2.

R19: *P2, K2* until last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat R18-19 an additional 2 times. Bind off using the tubular bind off.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 54 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 96) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rds 1-7 (6, 5, 4, 4) (3, 3, 2, 2): K across

Rd 8 (7, 6, 5, 5) (4, 4, 3, 3): K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before end, SSK, K1

Repeat Rds 1-8 (7, 6, 5, 5) (4, 4, 3, 3) an additional 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) (24, 27, 29, 32) times. You will now have 32 (32, 32, 32, 34) (34, 34, 36, 36) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for 9 (7, 14, 20, 15) (15, 3, 25, 21) repeats, or until you reach your desired length. Use the i-cord bind off method to bind off.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Sew the CO sts of the collar at the nape of the neck together. Attach buttons on the left side of the button band, opposite the BO holes made. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

A top down raglan sweater with colorful contrasting stripes

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

SIZING

The pattern is designed to have 2-3 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2-3 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:

33 (36, 40.5, 44.5, 49) (52, 56.5, 60.5, 64) inches or 84 (91, 103, 113, 124) (132, 144, 154, 163) cm

(B) Sleeve Length:

19 (20, 20, 20, 20) (21, 21, 21, 21) inches or 48 (51, 51, 51, 51) (53, 53, 53, 53) cm

(C) Total Length:

25 (25, 24.5, 25, 24.5) (24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5) inches or 64 (64, 62, 64, 62) (62, 62, 62, 62) cm

(D) Yoke Length:

8.5 (9, 8.5, 10, 11) (10.5, 12, 12.5, 13) inches or 22 (23, 22, 25, 28) (27, 30, 32, 33) cm

(E) Waist Length:

16.5 (16, 16, 15, 13.5) (14, 12.5, 12, 11.5) inches or 42 (41, 41, 38, 34) (36, 32, 30, 29) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width:

12.5 (13, 14, 15, 16.5) (18, 20, 21.5, 22.5) inches or 32 (33, 36, 38, 42) (46, 51, 55, 57) cm

GAUGE

19 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 4 (US), 3.5 mm circular needles

Size 4 (US), 3.5 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED YARN

1 skein Knit Picks Upcycle Alpaca Blend Sport in Sandalwood (A1)

1 skein Knit Picks Upcycle Alpaca Blend Sport in Seashell (A2)

1 skein Knit Picks Upcycle Alpaca Blend Sport in Hazelnut (A3)

1 skein Knit Picks Upcycle Alpaca Blend Sport in Salmon (A4)

1 skein Knit Picks Upcycle Alpaca Blend Sport in Squirrel (B1)

1 skein Knit Picks Upcycle Alpaca Blend Sport in Currant (B2)

1 skein Knit Picks Upcycle Alpaca Blend Sport in Space (B3)

Yarn Substitution: substitute with your favorite sport weight yarn, or similar weight that gets you gauge, so long as each color has at least 109 (123, 135, 150, 162) (178, 191, 205, 218) yards or 100 (112, 123, 137, 148) (163, 175, 187, 199) meters.

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CC – contrast color

CO – cast on

K – knit

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)

KFB – knit into the front and the back of the next stitch (increase)

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

MC – main color

P – purl

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

SM – slip marker

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease)

St(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

PATTERN NOTES

This raglan yoke sweater is knit from the top down and flat for the beginning of the yoke, then joined and knit in the round. You first work the yoke, which includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to knit the collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.

The pattern is worked by alternating between the A colors and the B colors, working them in the listed number order for each A or B section. Each stripe is worked across 6 rows/rounds, then you change to the next color. For illustrative purposes, begin working the stripe sections as follows: A1, B1, A2, B2, A3, B3, A4, B1, A1, B2, A2, B3, etc.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):

Using long tail cast on and beginning with color B1 in the color order, CO 60 (60, 62, 64, 68) (72, 72, 74, 74) sts. P across the first row. Note: color A1 is reserved for the Collar pick up section.

R1: K3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3), PM, K12 (10, 10, 10, 12) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K30 (34, 36, 38, 38) (38, 38, 40, 40), PM, K12 (10, 10, 10, 12) (14, 14, 14, 14), PM, K3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3).

R2: P across

For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:

R3: *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker section, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before end, M1R, K1. (10 sts increased)

R4: P across

Repeat R3-4 an additional 6 (7, 8, 9, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of 7 (8, 9, 10, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have 130 (140, 152, 164, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 17 (19, 21, 23, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve A: 26 (26, 28, 30, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: 44 (50, 54, 58, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: 26 (26, 28, 30, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Left Front Panel: 17 (19, 21, 23, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

R3: K1, KFB, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before end, KFB, K1. (14 sts increased).

R4: P across

Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, 5) (6, 6, 7, 9) times for a total of – (-, -, -, 6) (7, 7, 8, 10) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, 152) (170, 170, 186, 214) distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 21) (24, 24, 27, 33) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, 24) (28, 28, 30, 34) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, 62) (66, 66, 72, 80) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, 24) (28, 28, 30, 34) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 21) (24, 24, 27, 33) sts

For ALL Sizes:

Yoke Increases (Worked in the Round):

You will begin working in the round. Using the backwards loop cast on method, CO 10 (12, 12, 12, 20) (18, 18, 18, 14) sts on your right needle and K across to the first marker to join the round. This marker now becomes your BOR.

Rd 7: *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM.* (8 sts increased)

Rd 8: K across

Repeat Rds 7-8 an additional 14 (15, 16, 18, 24) (26, 31, 32, 32) times for a total of 15 (16, 17, 19, 25) (27, 32, 33, 33) repeats. You will now have 260 (280, 300, 328, 372) (404, 444, 468, 492) sts distributed as follows:

Sleeve A: 56 (58, 62, 68, 74) (82, 92, 96, 100) sts

Back Panel: 74 (82, 88, 96, 112) (120, 130, 138, 146) sts

Sleeve B: 56 (58, 62, 68, 74) (82, 92, 96, 100) sts

Front Panel: 74 (82, 88, 96, 112) (120, 130, 138, 146) sts

For Sizes M (L) ONLY:

Rd 9: *K to marker, SM, *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM.* (4 sts increased)

Rd 10: K across

Repeat Rds 9-10 an additional – (-, 1, 2, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of – (-, 2, 3, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have – (-, 308, 340, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Sleeve A: – (-, 62, 68, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: – (-, 92, 102, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, 62, 68, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Front Panel: – (-, 92, 102, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For Sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL) ONLY:

Rd 11: K across

Repeat Rd 11 a total of 10 (9, 4, -, 10) (2, -, -, -) repeats.

For ALL Sizes:

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work Rd 11 until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 12 (Set up Round): Place 56 (58, 62, 68, 74) (82, 92, 96, 100) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 3, 3) sts, place marker for the new BOR, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 3, 3), K across 74 (82, 92, 102, 112) (120, 130, 138, 146) sts, place 56 (58, 62, 68, 74) (82, 92, 96, 100) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 6, 6) sts, K across 66 (74, 84, 94, 120) (130, 138, 148, 159) sts. You will now have 156 (172, 192, 212, 232) (248, 268, 288, 304) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

Rd 13: K across

Repeat Rd 13 a total of 96 (93, 94, 86, 78) (82, 72, 68, 64) times, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd 14-23: Using Color A1 only, *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern.

Collar:

Using the circular needle and color A1, pick up and knit 98 (104, 110, 116, 100) (104, 104, 108, 108) sts along the collar and begin working in the round.

Rd 1-10: *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 56 (58, 62, 68, 74) (82, 92, 96, 100) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 6, 6) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd 1-7 (7, 6, 5, 4) (4, 3, 3, 2): K across

Rd 8 (8, 7, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 3): K2tog, K until 2 sts before end, SSK.

Repeat Rds 1-8 (8, 7, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 3) for a total of 13 (14, 16, 19, 21) (25, 30, 32, 34) repeats. You will now have 34 (34, 34, 34, 36) (36, 36, 38, 38) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for a total of 10 (8, 8, 6, 15) (1, 6, -, 24) repeats, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd 9-18: Using Color A1 only, *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern. Repeat for second sleeve. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Classic Striped Pullover as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #ClassicStripedPullover – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

A circular yoke sweater with a simple colorwork pattern

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

SIZING

The pattern is designed to have 3 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 3 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:

32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64) inches or 81.5 (91.5, 101.5, 112, 122) (132, 142, 152.5, 162.5) cm

(B) Sleeve Length:

21 (21.5, 21.5, 22, 22) (22.5, 22.5, 23, 23) inches or 53.5 (54.5, 54.5, 56, 56) (57, 57, 58.5, 58.5) cm

(C) Total Length:

20.5 (21, 22, 22, 22) (22.5, 23, 23, 22.5) inches or 52 (53.5, 56, 56, 56) (57, 58.5, 58.5, 57) cm

(D) Yoke Length:

8 (8.5, 9.5, 10, 10) (10.5, 11.5, 12, 12) inches or 20.5 (21.5, 24, 25.5, 25.5) (26.5, 29, 30.5, 30.5) cm

(E) Waist Length:

12.5 (12.5, 12.5, 12, 12) (12, 11.5, 11, 10.5) inches or 32 (32, 32, 30.5, 30.5) (30.5, 29, 28, 26.5) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width:

13 (13.5, 14, 15, 16.5) (18.5, 20.5, 21.5, 22.5) inches or 33 (34.5, 35.5, 38, 42) (47, 52, 54.5, 57) cm

GAUGE

15 sts x 22 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch using size 10 (US), 6.0 mm needles

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 9 (US), 5.5 mm circular needles

Size 9 (US), 5.5 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

Size 10 (US), 6.0 mm circular needles

Size 10 (US), 6.0 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

SUGGESTED YARN

3 (4, 4, 5, 5) (5, 6, 6, 7) skeins Knit Picks Simply Wool Worsted in Winnie (MC) or 571 (634, 704, 773, 846) (950, 1049, 1124, 1175) yards or 522 (580, 644, 707, 774) (869, 959, 1028, 1074) meters of worsted weight yarn

1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (1, 1, 1, 1) skeins Classic Elite Yarns Wildwood in Beaver (CC) or 67 (74, 83, 91, 99) (111, 123, 132, 138) yards or 61 (68, 76, 83, 91) (101, 112, 121, 126) meters of worsted weight yarn with a thick and thin or boucle texture

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CC – contrast color

CO – cast on

K – knit

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch

MC – main color

P – purl

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

Sl – slip

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease)

St(s) – stitch(es)

SM – slip marker

Wrp-tk – with the yarn in the back, slip the next stitch purl wise, bring the yarn to the front, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn

Wrp-tp – with the yarn in the front, slip the next stitch purl wise, bring the yarn to the back, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn

WS – wrong side

YO – yarn over; bring the working yarn to the front of your work and bring it over the top of the right needle

Pattern Notes

This circular yoke sweater is knit in the round and from the top down, beginning with a close fitting neckline you cast on. Before starting the yoke increases, you work short rows on the back panel so the sweater sits nicely on your torso. Work the short rows back and forth as indicated, leaving the remaining stitches unworked until the short rows are complete. On your first round after the short rows, be sure to pick up your wraps (helpful video tutorial from VeryPink Knits available here).

Then, you work the yoke using corrugated ribbing, which includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn. At the sleeve separation round, you will cut the yarn and the first sts after the BOR are half of the sleeve stitches for one sleeve panel to hold on scrap yarn. The other half of the sleeve stitches for that same sleeve panel are held on the same scrap yarn and are at the end of the round. The sleeve sts for one of the sleeve panels are split in half on either side of the BOR to ensure the short row shaping sits in the center of the back.

You will join the body panels on the sleeve separation round, then finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. The pattern includes optional bust darts, including suggested spacing for each size and a description to customize bust darts based on your own measurements. (Note: the sweater in the modeled picture does not feature bust darts.) You then work each sleeve individually and in the round. You finish by picking up stitches at the neckline and working an i-cord bind off for the collar.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Collar:

Using long tail cast on and larger needles, CO 64 (66, 70, 76, 78) (88, 90, 86, 88) sts. PM for BOR and begin working in the round.

Rd 1: K

Short Rows:

Rd 2: (set up round) K32 (33, 35, 38, 39) (44, 45, 43, 44), PM, K to end

R1: K to 3 sts before marker, wrp-tk, turn

R2: P to 3 sts before marker, wrp-tp, turn

R3: K to 3 sts before last wrapped stitch, wrp-tk, turn

R4: P to 3 sts before last wrapped stitch, wrp-tp, turn

Repeat R3-4 one additional time. Knit to BOR. Begin working in the round again and remove the short row marker on your next round. When you work a wrapped stitch for the first time on the next round, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the live stitch.

Yoke Increases:

Rd 3: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC*

Rd 4: *K1 in MC, P1 in CC*

Rd 5: In MC, K to end

Rd 6: In MC, *K2, M1L.* You will now have 96 (99, 105, 114, 117) (132, 135, 129, 132) sts.

Rd 7: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC*

Rd 8-9: *K1 in MC, P1 in CC*

Rd 10: In MC, K to end

Rd 11: In MC, *K3, M1L.* You will now have 128 (132, 140, 152, 156) (176, 180, 172, 176) sts.

Rd 12: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC*

Rd 13-15: *K1 in MC, P1 in CC*

Rd 16: In MC, K to end

Rd 17: In MC, *K4, M1L.* You will now have 160 (165, 175, 190, 195) (220, 225, 215, 220) sts.

Rd 18: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC*

Rd 19-22: *K1 in MC, P1 in CC*

Rd 23: In MC, K to end

Rd 24: In MC, *K5, M1L.* You will now have 192 (198, 210, 228, 234) (264, 270, 258, 264) sts.

Rd 25: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC*

Rd 26-30: *K1 in MC, P1 in CC*

Rd 31: In MC, K to end

Rd 32: In MC, *K12 (7, 6, 5, 4) (5, 3, 2, 2), M1L* until you have 0 (2, 0, 3, 2) (4, 0, 0, 0) sts remaining, K until end. You will now have 208 (226, 245, 273, 292) (316, 360, 387, 396) sts.

Rd 33: *K1 in MC, K1 in CC*

Rd 34-39: *K1 in MC, P1 in CC*

Rd 40: In MC, K to end

Repeat Rd 40 for a total of 7 (10, 13, 16, 18) (20, 24, 27, 29) repeats.

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, continue working K rounds until you reach the described length. Cut yarn and join again for the next round.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 41 (Set up Round): Place 23 (24, 25, 27, 29) (33, 36, 38, 40) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, PM for the new BOR, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, K across 58 (65, 73, 83, 88) (92, 108, 118, 118) sts, place 46 (48, 50, 54, 58) (66, 72, 76, 80) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, PM, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, K across 58 (65, 73, 83, 88) (92, 108, 118, 118) sts, place remaining 23 (24, 25, 27, 29) (33, 36, 38, 40) sts on the same scrap yarn or stitch holder as the sts from the beginning of the round. You will now have 120 (134, 149, 169, 184) (192, 224, 243, 244) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body with Bust Darts: (Optional)

Use this section if you would like to add bust darts to your sweater and make it more form fitting at the waist. For instructions on how to calculate and customize the bust darts to your particular size, please see the Pattern Notes about Adding Bust Darts.

Rd 42: (setup round) K11 (14, 16, 20, 21) (23, 28, 31, 31), PM for bust dart marker, K36 (37, 41, 43, 46) (46, 52, 56, 56), PM for bust dart marker, K across to next underarm marker, SM, K across

Rd 43: K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before bust dart marker, SSK, K1, K until next bust dart marker, SM, K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before underarm marker, SSK, K1, SM, K across.

Rd 44: K across

Repeat Rds 43-44 an additional 4 (5, 6, 8, 8) (9, 10, 12, 13) times for a total of 5 (6, 7, 9, 9) (10, 11, 13, 14) repeats. You will now have 88 (94, 109, 129, 144) (152, 180, 191, 188) sts.

Rd 45: K across

Repeat Rd 46 a total of 52 (50, 46, 41, 40) (37, 32, 27, 23) times, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd 46: Using smaller needles, *Sl1, P1*

Rd 47-52: *K1, P1*

Bind off in ribbing pattern.

Body without Bust Darts:

Rd 42: K across

Repeat Rd 43 a total of 62 (62, 60, 59, 58) (57, 54, 53, 51) times, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

For Sizes M (L, 4XL) ONLY:

Rd 43: K across until last 2 sts, K2tog

For ALL Sizes:

Rd 44: Using smaller needles, *Sl1, P1*

Rd 45-50: *K1, P1*

Bind off in ribbing pattern.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 46 (48, 50, 54, 58) (66, 72, 76, 80) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along larger double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you CO sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 2 (2, 2, 2, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd 1-7 (7, 6, 5, 4) (3, 3, 2, 2): In MC, K across

Rd 8 (8, 7, 6, 5) (4, 4, 3, 3): In MC, K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before end, SSK, K1

Repeat Rds 1-8 (8, 7, 6, 5) (4, 4, 3, 3) an additional 10 (11, 12, 14, 16) (20, 23, 24, 26) times for a total of 11 (12, 13, 15, 17) (21, 24, 25, 27) repeats. You will now have 26 (26, 26, 26, 28) (28, 28, 30, 30) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for a total of 19 (14, 19, 23, 28) (32, 20, 43, 37) repeats, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd 9: Using smaller needles, *Sl1, P1*

Rd 10-15: *K1, P1*

Bind off in ribbing pattern.

Collar:

Using smaller needles, pick up and knit 64 (66, 70, 76, 78) (88, 90, 86, 88) sts along neckline edge. Bind off using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here) until the last 3 sts. Using a separate needle, pick up 3 sts along the edge of the CO stitches at the beginning of the round. Holding the two needles together, graft the 3 sts at the end of the round to the 3 picked up sts at the beginning of the round.

Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Pathways Sweater as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #PathwaysSweater– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!