Pattern: Pleat T

A flowy tee with pleats at the neckline

Skill Level: Advanced

Gauge:         18 sts x 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch         

Yarn:             3 (4, 4, 5, 5) (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins of Lion Brand Nuboo in Walnut              

Suggested Needles:          Size 4.5mm (US 7) circular knitting needles
                    Size 4.5mm (US 7) double pointed needles, or small circular needles

Notions:     Stitch markers

                   Tapestry needle

                   Scrap yarn

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K– knit

P– purl

CO– cast on

SM– slip marker

PM– place marker

BOR– beginning of round

M1L– pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing theneedle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R– pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

St(s)– stitch(es)

PATTERN NOTES

This raglan tee is knit in the round, with the initial few collar rows worked from the bottom up, then the remainder of the tee knit from the top down. The collar is cast on using the provisional cast on method, then the pleats up top are worked, followed by an i-cord bind off. The provisional cast on stitches are then picked up and you work the remainder of the yoke from the top down. The yoke includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the tee down to the waist. You end by working each sleeve individually.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order, unless otherwise noted in the heading: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Collar

Using the provisional cast on method and your circular needles, CO 120 (138, 144, 154, 166) (174, 182, 192, 200) sts. Place marker to mark the BOR. Join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: K12 (14, 14, 14, 14) (12, 12, 12, 12) sts, PM, K to end.

Round 2: (a video tutorial for working a box pleat is available here)

K to marker, SM, K8 (11, 7, 2, 7) (2, 6, 2, 6).

Right Facing Pleat

Place 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts on one double pointed needle (Needle 1), place next 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts on a second double pointed needle (Needle 2), and leave remaining sts on your left needle (Needle 3). See Fig. 1. Fold Needle 2 on top of Needle 3 so the right sides are facing, and fold Needle 1 on top of Needle 2 so the wrong sides are facing. See Fig. 2. Knit the first st from each needle together until you have knit 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts. 6 (6, 8, 10, 10) (12, 12, 14, 14) sts decreased.

                             Fig. 1                                                                                     Fig. 2

Repeat the Right Facing Pleat two more times.

Left Facing Pleat

Place 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts on one double pointed needle (Needle 1), place next 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts on a second double pointed needle (Needle 2), and leave remaining sts on your left needle (Needle 3). See Fig. 3. Fold Needle 2 on top of Needle 3 so the wrong sides are facing, and fold Needle 1 on top of Needle 2 so the right sides are facing. See Fig. 4. Knit the first st from each needle together until you have knit 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) sts. 6 (6, 8, 10, 10) (12, 12, 14, 14) sts decreased.

                                    Fig.3                                                                        Fig. 4

Repeat the Left Facing Pleat two more times.

K to the end of the round.

Bind off using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Yoke

Pick up live sts from the provisional cast on edge and place them on your needles to continue working in the round.

Round 3: K26 (34, 29, 31, 33) (37, 37, 38, 38), PM, K12 (14, 14, 14, 14) (12, 12, 12, 12) sts, PM, K70 (76, 87, 95, 105) (113, 121, 130, 138) sts, PM, K12 (14, 14, 14, 14) (12, 12, 12, 12) sts, PM for BOR. Your stitches will be distributed as follows:

Body Panel B: 26 (34, 29, 31, 33) (37, 37, 38, 38)

Sleeve B: 12 (14, 14, 14, 14) (12, 12, 12, 12)

Body Panel A: 70 (76, 87, 95, 105) (113, 121, 130, 138)

Sleeve A: 12 (14, 14, 14, 14) (12, 12, 12, 12)

For Sizes 2XL (3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

Round 4: K1, M1L, K1, M1L, until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K to next marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM (8 increases total)

Round 5: K across

Repeat Rounds 4-5 an additional 3 (4, 5, 6) times for a total of 4 (5, 6, 7) repeats. You will now have 146 (158, 172, 184) sts total distributed as follows:

Body Panel B: 53 (57, 62, 66) sts

Sleeve B: 20 (22, 24, 26) sts

Body Panel A: 113 (121, 130, 138)sts

Sleeve A: 20 (22, 24, 26) sts

For ALL Sizes:

Round 6: *K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K to next marker, SM, K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (6 increases)

Round 7: K across

Repeat Rounds 6-7 an additional 21 (20, 22, 24, 27) (29, 31, 33, 35) times for a total of 22 (21, 23, 25, 28) (30, 32, 34, 36) repeats. You will now have 252 (264, 282, 304, 334) (386, 414, 444, 472) sts total distributed as follows:

Body Panel B: 70 (76, 75, 81, 89) (113, 121, 130, 138) sts

Sleeve B: 56 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 98) sts

Body Panel A: 70 (76, 87, 95, 105) (113, 121, 130, 138) sts

Sleeve A: 56 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 98) sts

For Sizes M (L, XL) ONLY:

Round 8: K1, M1L, K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K to BOR (2 increases)

Round 9: K across

Repeat Rounds 8-9 an additional 5 (6, 7) times for a total of 6 (7, 8) repeats. You will now have 294 (318, 350) sts total distributed as follows:

Body Panel B: 87 (95, 105) sts

Sleeve B: 60 (64, 70) sts

Body Panel A: 87 (95, 105) sts

Sleeve A: 60 (64, 70) sts

For Sizes XS (S, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

Round 10: K across

Repeat Round 10 for an additional 5 (10, 4, 3, 2, 1) repeats.

For ALL Sizes:

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, continue repeating Round 10 until you reach the described length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Round 11: Remove all markers as you go, except the BOR. (RS) K across 70 (76, 87, 95, 105) (113, 121, 130, 138) sts, place 56 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 98) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts, K across 70 (76, 87, 95, 105) (113, 121, 130, 138), place 56 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 98) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts. You will now have 144 (160, 182, 198, 218) (234, 250, 268, 288) sts on your needles, not counting the sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

Round 12: K across

Repeat Round 12 for an additional 70 (75, 61, 56, 50) (55, 49, 46, 40) repeats, or until your piece measures 19.5” (20, 20.25, 20.5, 20.75) (21, 21, 21.5, 21.5”) from top collar.

Bind off using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Cut yarn and weave in ends using tapestry needle.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 56 (56, 60, 64, 70) (80, 86, 92, 98) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you CO 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts for the body), and pick up 2 (4, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 6) sts using double pointed needles or small circular needles. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit.

Rounds 1-5: K across

Bind off using the I-Cord Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Cut yarn and weave in ends using tapestry needle.

Repeat for second sleeve. Block to measurements.