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Pattern: Braided Cable Trail Toe Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Pattern written for women’s size 8 socks, but it is easily customizable to fit any foot size. 

Materials:
Size 1 double pointed needles
(MC) 1 skein Lion Brand Sock-Ease in Toffee – this yarn is great and has aloe infused in it!
(CC) 1 skein Premier yarns, Deborah Norville Collection, Serenity Sock Weight in soft white
Cable hook, or if you’re feeling adventurous, I recommend watching this video to learn how to cable without the hook. It’s really convenient for knitting on the go with limited supplies.

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
Cn – cable needle
MC – main color
CC – contrast color

Braided Cable Knit Pattern:
This pattern repeats throughout the top of the sock, with the bottom of the heel and back of the ankle worked in stockinette stitch. Use the MC unless specifically noted to use the CC.

Row 1: P2, K6, P3, K3, K3 in CC, K3, P3, K6, P2.
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: P2, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P3, sl 3 front, K3 in CC, K3 from cn, K3, P3, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P2.
Row 4: P2, K6, P3, K3 in CC, K6, P3, K6, P2.
Rows 5-6: Repeat Row 4.
Row 7: P2, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P3, K3 in CC, sl 3 back, K3, K3 from cn, P3, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P2.
Row 8: P2, K6, P3, K3 in CC, K6, P3, K6, P3.

Row 9-10: Repeat Row 8.
Row 11: P2, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P3, sl 3 front, K3, K3 in CC from cn, K3, P3, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P2.
Rows 12-14: Repeat Row 1.
Row 15: P2, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P3, K3, sl 3 back, K3, K3 in CC from cn, P3, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P2.
Row 16: P2, K6, P3, K6, K3 in CC, P3, K6, P3.

Rows 17-18: Repeat Row 16.
Row 19: P2, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P3, sl 3 front, K3, K3 from cn, K3 in CC, P3, sl 2 front, K2, K2 from cn, K2, P2.
Rows 20-22: Repeat Row 16.
Row 23: P2, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P3, K3, sl 3 back, K3 in CC, K3 from cn, P3, K2, sl 2 back, K2, K2 from cn, P2.
Row 24: Repeat Row 1.

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 8 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 16 sts on two needles (8 sts per needle). Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (12 sts)
Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle)

Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 7 and Round 8 until you have 60 sts total (15 sts per needle)

Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across 

At this point, you should have 62 sts total, with 16 sts on Needles 1 and 3, and 15 sts on Needles 2 and 4.

Foot:
For all foot rounds, work the Braided Cable Knit Pattern across Needles 1 and 2 and work the stockinette stitch across Needles 3 and 4. In other words, you will work the cable pattern over the top of the foot and stockinette stitch over the bottom of the foot.

Work the Braided Cable Knit Pattern 3 times for a size 8 woman’s foot. For other sizes, work until the sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (31 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked 
Use CC only

Row 11: Sl1, P across.
Row 12: Sl1, K3, P2, *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 11 and 12, 11 more times (12 repeats total, 24 rows total).

Heel Shaping:
Row 13: Sl1, P15, P2tog, P1, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue in this manner.
Row 14: Sl1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 15: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 16: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 17: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 18: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 19: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 20: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 21: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 22: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 23: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 24: Sl1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 25: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 26: Sl1, K15, K2tog. Do not turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 27: Still using CC, pick up and K 12 sts along first side of the heel. Switch to MC and work in pattern across the two needles left unworked during the heel flap. Pick up and K 12 sts along second side of the heel. On the same needle, K 8 sts from the heel flap, splitting the sts from the heel flap between the two needles with the picked up sts. This is now the start of the round.

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 28: Needle 1 – K across until last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
       Needle 2 – Work in Braided Cable Knit Pattern.
       Needle 3 – Work in Braided Cable Knit Pattern.
       Needle 4 – K1, SSK, K across.
 
Round 29: Needle 1 – K across.
       Needle 2 – Work in Braided Cable Knit Pattern.
       Needle 3 – Work in Braided Cable Knit Pattern.
       Needle 4 – K across.

Repeat Round 28 and Round 29 until there are 62 sts total. Two needles should have 15 sts and two needles should have 16 sts.
 
Ankle
Continue working the Braided Cable Knit Pattern across the front of the ankle and stockinette stitch across the back of the ankle until you reach your desired length.
 
Ribbing
In CC, K1, P1 across for about an inch.
Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.
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Pattern: Entrelac Seed Stitch Toe Up Socks

These entrelac toe up socks alternate using stockinette stitch and seed stitch. This pattern assumes you have a basic knowledge of how knitting entrelac works. I do not recommend you try this as your first attempt at entrelac because the heel especially can be a bit fiddly and confusing. Here is a helpful article that explains entrelac knitting with pictures.

Finished Measurements:
Comfortably fits a Size 8 women’s foot, though it can easily be adapted to fit other sizes.

Materials:
2 skeins Patons Kroy Sock Yarn in Rusty Stripes
Size 1 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Stitches:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
St – stitch
RS – right side
WS – wrong side

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 16 stitches
Row 1: P across
Row 2: K across
Row 3: P across
Row 4: K across

 Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. K across 16 sts from the scrap yarn. Distribute 32 sts evenly along four needles, with 8 sts on each needle. Begin knitting in the round.

Rounds 5-6: K across
Round 7: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Rounds 8-9: K across
Round 10: Repeat Round 7 (40 sts total)

Entrelac
Begin working entrelac. Each triangle section is made out of 8 sts and there are 5 triangle sections in total per row (8 sts X 5 triangles = 40 sts. Yay math).

To make the foundation triangles:
Row 1: K2, turn.
Row 2: P2, turn.
Row 3: K3, turn.
Row 4: P3, turn.

Continue in this manner, adding a stitch on each K row, until you have K 8 sts total. Do not P across the 8 sts and do not turn. Rather, start with Row 1 again. Continue across until all 40 sts have been worked to make 5 triangle sections.

To make the next row of seed stitch triangles, with RS facing, pick up 8 sts along the section immediately to the left of the section just worked and work the following:
Row 5: *K1, P1.* Repeat from * to * until end, turn.
Row 6: *P1, K1.* Repeat from * to * until last st, SSK (using the last st in the row and the next st of the prior section, combining the triangles).
Repeat Rows 5-6 until all of the sts have been worked on the triangle. To make a new triangle, pick up sts from the previous row triangle to the right.
Continue in this manner until all triangles are worked.

To make the next row of stockinette stitch triangles, with WS facing, pick up and P 8 sts along the section immediately to the left of the section just worked.
Row 7: K across until the last st, SSK (using the last st in the row and the next st of the prior section, combining the triangles).
Row 8: P across.
Repeat Rows 7-8 until all of the sts have been worked on the triangle, being sure to end on a Row 7.
Continue in this manner until all triangles are worked.

Continue making rows, alternating between a garter stitch row and a stockinette stitch row. For a size 8 women’s foot, work 7 rows of triangles total, not including the foundation triangles. You can adjust the rows based on your foot size.

Heel
To make the heel, work only two triangles in each row before turning and starting a new row. Be sure to end the row with either Row 6 or Row 8 (depending on whether you are working the seed stitch or stockinette stitch triangle). Also, when starting a new row, you are attaching to the triangle from a few rows ago to make the heel turn. This means you’ll have a seed stitch triangle attaching to another seed stitch triangle on the turning row.

Work 4 rows of the heel.

Ankle
Once you finished the heel, continue working in the round as normal.
Work 6 rows of triangle, or until you reach approximately 2 inches less than your desired length.

To make the end foundation triangles, pick up 9 sts when starting a new triangle.
Row 9: K2tog, K across until last st, SSK (using the last st in the row and the next st of the prior section, combining the triangles).
Row 10: P across.

Repeat Rows 9 and 10 until you have 2 sts left on the current triangle and 1 st left on the triangle you’re combining it with. K2tog, pass the stitch just worked back onto the left needle, SSK (using the last st in the row and the next st of the prior section, combining the triangles).

This leaves one st remaining. Use this st as the additional st and pick up 8 sts along the next triangle. 
Continue in this manner until you have worked all triangles and only have one st remaining.

Edging
Pick up 60 sts evenly across the edge of the sock to make the brim.
Round 1: *K3, P1.* Repeat from * to * until end.
Repeat Round 1 for 1 1/2 inches, or until you reach your desired length.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

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Pattern: Color Changing Ladder Cowl

Finished Measurements:
9 inches long
13 inches diameter

Stitches:
Ch – chain
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet

Materials:
1 skein Shibui Heichi in grey
1 skein Shibui Heichi in pink
1 skein Blue Sky Alpaca Silk in lime green
Size G crochet hook

Instructions:
When changing colors through the piece, always be sure to leave the unworked loop behind the work so it doesn’t show. You can either cut the string when changing colors or work the color up behind the piece when you need that color again. I prefer the later to avoid wasting yarn and generally ch a few in the back to start the new color again.

In black, ch 120. Sl st in the first ch. Be careful not to twist! Leave unworked loop behind.

Round 1: In pink, join with sl st in beginning. Ch 1, *2 sc in next ch, ch 1, skip 2 ch.* Repeat from * to * until end, ch 1, sl st in first ch in beginning.
Round 2: In grey, join with sl st in beginning. Ch 2, *sc in first skipped ch from the foundation row, ch 2.* Repeat from * to * until end, sl st in first ch in beginning.

Round 3: In pink, join with sl st in beginning. Ch 1, *2 sc in next ch 2 space, ch 1.* Repeat from * to * until end, ch 1, sl st in first ch in beginning.
Round 4: In grey, join with sl st in beginning. Ch 2, *sc in sc from the previous even numbered row, ch 2.* Repeat from * to * until end, sl st in first ch in beginning.

Round 5: In pink, repeat Round 3. 
Round 6: In grey, repeat Round 4.
Round 7: In green, repeat Round 3.
Round 8: In grey, repeat Round 4.
Round 9: In green, repeat Round 3.
Round 10: In grey, repeat Round 4.

Round 11: In green, repeat Round 3.
Round 12: In pink, repeat Round 4.
Round 13: In green, repeat Round 3.
Round 14: In pink, repeat Round 4.
Round 15: In green, repeat Round 3.
Round 16: In pink, repeat Round 4.
Round 17: In grey, repeat Round 3.
Round 18: In pink, repeat Round 4.

Repeat the color changes in this manner. Each color is worked five times before switching to another color. The color sequence is pink, green, grey. The picture below hopefully explains it:

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Pattern: Honeycomb Infinity Scarf

This cozy infinity scarf is really easy to make and has a nice border to edge the honeycomb pattern.

Materials:
Crochet hook Size J
2 skeins Vanna’s Choice in Taupe

Stitches:
Ch – chain
Hdc – half double crochet
Sl st – slip stitch

Instructions:
Ch 225, sl st in first ch to join in the round (careful not to twist!), ch 1 (do not turn).
Row 1: 1 hdc in each ch across, sl st in turning ch, ch 1, turn.
Row 2: 1 hdc in each st across, sl st in turning ch, ch 1, turn.
Row 3: 1 hdc in each st across, sl st in turning ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 4: skip first st, 1 hdc in next st, *ch 1, skip st, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until end, ch 1, sl st in second starting ch, ch 2, turn.

Row 5: 1 hdc in ch 1 space, ch 1, *1 hdc in next ch 1 space, ch 1.* Repeat from * to * until end, sl st in second starting ch, ch 2, turn.

Repeat Row 5 15 more times (16 times total), or until you reach the desired width before the edging.

Row 6: *1 hdc in ch 1 space, 1 hdc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until end, 1 hdc in last ch 1 space, sl st in turning ch, ch 1, turn.
Row 7: 1 hdc in each st across, sl st in turning ch. Cut and weave in ends.

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Pattern: Cozy Shrug

Materials:
2 skeins Loops & Threads Impeccable in Aran
Size 10 1/2 needles
Sewing needle

Stitches:
CO – cast on
K – knit
P – purl
M1 – make stitch by pulling up then knitting a loop from the horizontal yarn between the two stitches
Sl – slip stitch
Psso – pass the slipped stitch over the last stitch made
Yo – yarn over needle
K2tog – knit two stitches together
P2tog – purl two stitches together

Instructions:
Cuff
CO 42 sts
Row 1: *K2, P2.* Repeat from * to * to last 2 sts, K2.
Row 2: *P2, K2.* Repeat from * to * to last 2 sts, P2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the cuff measures approximately 7 inches.

Back
Row 3 (increase row): *K1, M1.* Repeat from * to * to end. 84 stitches total.

Row 4 (RS): *Sl 1, K1, psso, yo, K2, yo, K2tog.* Repeat from * to * until end.
Row 5 (WS): P across.

Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until the entire piece, including the cuff, measures approximately 36 inches.

Row 6 (decrease row): *K2tog, K2tog, P2tog, P2tog.* Repeat from * to * until last 4 sts, K2tog, K2tog. 42 stitches total.

Cuff
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for approximately 7 inches. Make sure the cuffs have the same amount of rows worked to keep them even.

Finishing
With the wrong side facing, sew the sides of the first cuff together for the 7 inches of the cuff to make the first sleeve. Repeat the same with the second cuff for the other sleeve.

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Pattern: Checkered Hunting Hat

Materials:
Size H crochet hook
1 skein Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids in Navy (MC)
1 skein Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids in Grey (CC)

Stitches:
Dc – double crochet
Sl st – slip stitch
MC – main color
CC – contrast color
Sc2tog – single crochet two together

Instructions:
Hat Body
The colors switch after three rounds. Once you are done increasing, each color section has 7 stitches in it.

Round 1: Using magic circle, *1 dc in MC, 1 dc in CC.* Repeat from * to * four more times (five color sections total). Sl st to 1st dc made. (10 dc)
Round 2: Using MC, ch2, dc in first st. In CC, 2dc in next st.  *In MC, 2dc in next st. In CC, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (20 dc)
Round 3: Using MC, ch2, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. *Using MC, dc in next st, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next st, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (30 dc)

Round 4: Using CC, ch2, dc in next st, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (40 dc)
Round 5: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (50 dc) 
Round 6: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using CC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st. Using MC, dc in next 4 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (60 dc) 

Round 7: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st. *Using MC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st. Using CC, dc in next 5 sts, 2dc in next st.* Repeat from* to * three more times (five color sections total). Sl st in first dc. (70 dc)
Rounds 8-9: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end.

Rounds 10-12: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end. Sl st in first dc.

Rounds 13-15: Using MC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. Using CC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end.

Rounds 16-18: Using CC, ch2, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts. *Using CC, dc in next 7 sts. Using MC, dc in next 7 sts.* Repeat from * to * until end. Sl st in first dc.

Left Ear Flap:
Flip the hat inside out. With the RS facing, look for the join (the beginning/end point) and count 10 sts to the right from there. With the RS facing, sl st in that 10th st from join. 

Row 1: In MC, ch1, sc in next 14 sts. Ch1, turn. (15 sc)
Row 2: Sc across, ch1, turn.
Row 3: Sc2tog, sc across, ch1, turn.
Row 4: Repeat row 3.
Rows 5-7: Repeat Rows 2-4 one more time.

 

Right Ear Flap:
With the hat still flipped inside out and with the WS facing, count 19 sts to the right from the join. Sl st in that 19th st from join.
Work rows 1-7 of the left ear flap.

Front Flap:
With the hat still flipped inside out and with the WS facing, count 36 sts to the left from the join. Sl st in that 36th st from join. Note: if the counting is getting confusing, just work the front flap in all of the unworked sts in the larger of the two spaces between the left and right ear flaps. 

Row 8: Working in back loops only and in MC, ch 1, sc in next 25 sts, ch1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 9-14: Sc across, ch1, turn.

Edging:
With the hat still flipped inside out, with the RS facing, and using MC, sl st in each st across.

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Pattern: Vintage Ribbed Toe Up Socks

 

These vintage inspired socks are built for comfort with no ribbing on the bottom of the foot but ribbing that stretches on the rest of the sock.

Finished Measurements:
Pattern written for men’s size 13 socks, shown in the blue sock, but it is easily customizable to fit any foot size. The red/grey socks are for men’s size 9 socks.

Materials:
Size 0 double pointed needles
2 skeins Sensations Truly Pattern in Turq Pattern (fort the blue socks)
or 2 skeins Patons Kroy Socks, Ragg Shades in Grey Brown Marl (for the red/grey socks)
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Stitches:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).


Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 12 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (28 sts)
Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Increase until you have 40 sts total (10 sts per needle)

Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 72 sts total (18 sts per needle)


Foot:
Round 11: Needles 1 and 2 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * across.
        Needles 3 and 4 – K across

Repeat Round 11 until sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (36 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked for the heel flap

Row 12: Sl1, P across.
Row 13: Sl1, K3, P2, *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13, 14 more times (15 repeats total, 30 rows total).

Note: If you want to make the size smaller or larger than a men’s size 13 sock, then just measure it against your heel as you work. The heel flap should be the same length as your heel.

Heel Shaping:
Row 14: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. Continue in this manner.
Row 15: Sl1, P1, K2, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 17: Sl1, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 19: Sl1, K1, P2, K4, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 21: Sl1, K2, P2, K4, P1, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 23: Sl1, K3, P2, K4, P2, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 24: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 25: Sl1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K1, turn. 
Row 26: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. 
Row 27: Sl1, P1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 28: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 29: Sl1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 30: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 31: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K4. Using the same needle (called Needle 4), pick up 16 sts and work *K4, P2* pattern. Work *K4, P2* pattern along Needles 1 and 2. Using the last spare needle (called Needle 3), pick up 16 sts and work in the following: P1, K4, P2, K4, P2, K3. Using the same needle, work the following heel flap sts from Needle 4: K1, P2, K4, P2.

The stitches should be distributed along your needles in the following way:
Needle 1: 18 sts
Needle 2: 18 sts 
Needle 3: 25 sts (with the heel flap sts split down the middle)
Needle 4: 26 sts (with the heel flap sts split down the middle)

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 32: Needle 1 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 2 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 3 – Knit if the first st is a knit st, purl if the first st is a purl st, SSK, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across
       Needle 4 – Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts until the last 3 sts, K2tog, knit if the last st is a knit st, purl if the last st is a purl st.

Round 33: Needle 1 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 2 – *K4, P2.* Repeat from * to * to end.
       Needle 3 – Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across.
       Needle 4 – Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts across.

Repeat Round 32 and Round 33 until there are 18 sts on each needle (72 sts total).

Leg
Continue working *K4, P2* pattern until you reach 1 inch below your desired leg length.

Ribbing:
*K1, P1* across all needles for 1 inch.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

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Pattern: Celtic Cable Toe Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Comfortably fits size 8 women’s sock, but easily adaptable to fit any adult shoe size.

Materials:
2 skeins Patons Kroy Socks FX in Camo Colors
Size 2 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Stitches:
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle
SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).
K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).
P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).
Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).
C4F (cable 4 front) – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B (cable 4 back) – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C2B (cable 2 back) – slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 1, then knit the 1 stitch from the cable needle.
Cr3L – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 1, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Cr3R – slip 1 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 1 from the cable needle.

Cr4L – slip 2 stitches to a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, purl 2, then knit 2 from the cable needle.

Cr4R – slip 2 stitch to a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, knit 2, then purl 2 from the cable needle.

An easy way to remember the stitches is to always have the purl stitches in the back of the knit stitches.

Celtic Knot Pattern:

Row 1: P2, K2, P1, (P2, C4B, P2) x 3, P1, K2, P2.
Row 2: P2, K2, P3, (K4, P4) X 2, K4, P3, K3, P1. 
Row 3: P2, C2B, P2, Cr3R, (Cr4L, Cr4R) x 2, Cr3L, P2, C2B, P2.
Row 4: (P2, K2) X 2, P3, K4, P4, K4, P3, (K2, P2) X 2.
Row 5: P2, K2, P1, Cr3R, P1, (P2, C4F, P2) x 2, P1, Cr3L, P1, K2, P2.
Row 6: P2, C2B, P1, K2, (P4, K4) X 2, P4, K2, P1, C2B, P2.
Row 7: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, (Cr4R, Cr4L) x 2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 8: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 9: P2, C2B, P1, (K2, P2) x 2, P2, C4B, P2, (P2, K2) x 2, P1, C2B, P2.
Row 10: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, K2, P4, K4, P4, K2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2
Row 11: P2, K2, P1, K2, P2, (Cr4L, Cr4R) x 2, P2, K2, P1, K2, P2.
Row 12: P2, C2B, P1, K2, (P4, K4) x 2, P4, K2, P1, C2B,P2.
Row 13: P2, K2, P1, Cr3L, P1, (P2, C4F, P2) x 2, P1, Cr3R, P1, K2, P2.
Row 14: P2, K2, P2, K2, P3, K4, P4, K4, P3, K2, P2, K2, P2.
Row 15: P2, C2B, P2, Cr3L, (Cr4R, Cr4L) x 2, Cr3R, P2, C2B, P2.
Row 16: P2, K2, P3, (K4, P4) x 2, K4, P3, K2, P2.
Row 17: P2, K2, P1, (P2, K4, P2) x 3, P1, K2, P2.
Row 18: P2, C2B, P1, (P2, K4, P2) x 3, P1, C2B, P2.

Instructions:
Toe Shaping
Using provisional cast on method, cast on 8 stitches
Round 1: P across
Round 2: K across
Round 3: P across
Round 4: K across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 16 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * (20 sts)
Rounds 6-8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
          Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
          Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Increase until you have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle)

Round 9: K across
Round 10: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
        Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 9 and Round 10 until you have 68 sts total (17 sts per needle)

Foot:
Round 11: Needles 1 and 2 – Work Celtic Knot Pattern
        Needles 3 and 4 – K across

Repeat Round 11 until you work all 18 rows of the celtic knot pattern twice.

Heel Flap:
Turn so WS is facing and Work Needles 3 and 4 ONLY (34 sts)
Leave Needles 1 and 2 unworked for the heel flap

Row 12: Sl1, P across.
Row 13: *Sl1, K1.* Repeat from * to * to end.
Repeat Rows 12 and 13, 11 more times (12 repeats total, 24 rows total).

Heel Shaping:
Row 14: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 14 sts remaining unworked).
Row 15: Sl1, K3, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 12 sts remaining unworked).
Row 16: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 12 sts remaining unworked).
Row 17: Sl1, K5, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 10 sts remaining unworked). 
Row 18: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 10 sts remaining unworked).
Row 19: Sl1, K7, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 8 sts remaining unworked).
Row 20: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 8 sts remaining unworked).
Row 21: Sl1, K9, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 6 sts remaining unworked).
Row 22: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 6 sts remaining unworked).
Row 23: Sl1, K11, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 4 sts remaining unworked).
Row 24: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 4 sts remaining unworked).
Row 25: Sl1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. (Leave 2 sts remaining unworked).
Row 26: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn. (Leave 2 sts remaining unworked).
Row 27: Sl1, K15, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 28: Sl1, P16, P2tog, P1, turn.

Begin working in the round again.

Round 29: K across 19 sts of heel flap. Using the same needle (called Needle 4), pick up and K8 sts along the heel flap. Work Celtic Knot Pattern along Needles 1 and 2. Using the last spare needle (called Needle 3), pick up and K8 sts along the other side of the heel flap.

Distribute sts along the needles as follows:
Needle 1: 17 sts (keep these as the same sts with the Celtic Knot Pattern)
Needle 2: 17 sts (keep these as the same sts with the Celtic Knot Pattern)
Needle 3: 17 sts
Needle 4: 18 sts

Gusset Shaping (decrease)
Round 30: Needle 1 – work Celtic Knot Pattern
       Needle 2 – work Celtic Knot Pattern
       Needle 3 – K1, SSK, K across until end of needle
       Needle 4 – K across until last 3 sts of needle, SSK, K1

Round 31: Needle 1 – work rib pattern
       Needle 2 – work rib pattern
       Needle 3 – K across
       Needle 4 – K across

Repeat Round 30 and Round 31 until there are 14 sts each on Needles 3 and 4, leaving 17 sts each on Needles 1 and 2. (62 sts total). Note: since Needle 4 has one more st than Needle 3, you will decrease on Needle 4 for one more round than on Needle 3.

Leg
K across Needles 3 and 4 and work Celtic Knot Pattern on Needles 1 and 2 until you have worked the entire Celtic Knot Pattern twice.

Ribbing:
Rounds 32-37: K2, P2.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

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Pattern: Knotted Rib Toe-Up Socks

Finished Measurements:
Fits men’s size 12/13 but is easily adapted to fit any foot size. If you want a smaller width, keep the st count in multiples of 6.

Materials:
Two (2) skeins Patons Kroy Socks in Slate Jacquard
Size 2 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.


Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sts – stitches
Inc – increase, knit into the front and back of the stitch
Yo – yarn over
K2tog – knit two sts together
P2tog – purl two sts together
Sl – slip stitch unworked from the left needle to the right
Pyoo yo and K2tog – on the right hand needle just worked, pass the first yo made over the second yo made and the K2tog stitch

Instructions:

Toe Shaping
Cast on 8 sts using the provisional cast on method.

Work back and forth across the same needle:
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across
Row 3: K across
Row 4: P across
Row 5: K across

Remove 8 live sts from the scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You will have 16 sts on two needles, 8 sts per needle. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 6: *K2, Inc, K1 (add a needle) K1, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to * until the end. (20 sts)
Rounds 7-9: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
      Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

You should have 32 sts total (8 sts per needle).

Round 10: K across
Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
      Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
      Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 10 and Round 11 until you have 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Foot
Rounds 12 and 13 make up the repeating Knotted Rib pattern.

Round 12: *P2, K4.* Repeat from * to * until the end.
Round 13: *P2, K1, yo twice, K2tog, pyoo yo and K2tog, K1.* Repeat from * to * until the end. While this round uses increase and decrease stitches, it evens out and you should still have 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Repeat Rounds 12 and 13 until sock is the length from the toe to the bend of your ankle at the top of your foot.

Heel Flap
Work needles 1 and 2 ONLY, leave needles 3 and 4 unworked. You will not be working in the round for the heel flap and you will be working across needles 1 and 2 flat, turning your work after each row.

Row 14: *Sl 1, K1.* Repeat from * to * until the end.
Row 15: Sl 1, P across.
Row 16: Sl 1, K1, *K1, Sl 1* Repeat from * to * until the last 2 sts, K2.
Row 17: Sl 1, P across.

Repeat Rows 14-17 five (5) more times (6 times total).

Heel Shaping
Continue working on needles 1 and 2 ONLY.

Row 18: Sl 1, K15, K2tog, K1, turn (leave 11 sts unworked).
Row 19: Sl 1, P3, P2tog, P1, turn (leave 11 sts unworked).
Row 20: Sl 1, K4, K2tog, K1, turn (continue leaving sts unworked).
Row 21: Sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 22: Sl 1, K6, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 23: Sl 1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 24: Sl 1, K8, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 25: Sl 1, P9, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 26: Sl 1, K10, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 27: Sl 1, P11, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 28: Sl 1, K12, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 29: Sl 1, P13, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 30: Sl 1, K14, K2tog, turn.
Row 31: Sl 1, P14, P2tog, turn.

You should have 16 sts remaining (8 sts per needle). Continue working in the round.

Round 32: Needle 1 – K across
      Needle 2 – K across, pick up and K 14 sts along the length of the heel flap
      Needle 3 – work across in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work across in Knotted Rib pattern
Pick up and K 14 sts along the length of the other side of the heel flap and add it to Needle 1.

Your sts should be distributed as follows:
      Needle 1 – 22 sts
      Needle 2 – 22 sts
      Needle 3 – 15 sts (keep these as the same Knotted Rib pattern sts held aside during the heel flap and heel shaping sections)
      Needle 4 – 15 sts (keep these as the same Knotted Rib pattern sts held aside during the heel flap and heel shaping sections)

Gusset Shaping
Round 33: Needle 1 – K1, SSK, K across until end of needle
      Needle 2 – K across until last 3 sts of needle, SSK, K1
      Needle 3 – work in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work in Knotted Rib pattern


Round 34: Needle 1 – K across
      Needle 2 – K across
      Needle 3 – work in Knotted Rib pattern
      Needle 4 – work in Knotted Rib pattern


Repeat Rounds 33 and 34 until there are 60 sts total (15 sts per needle).

Leg
Work Knotted Rib pattern on all needles until you reach 1 inch less than the desired length.

Finish with 10 rows of K2, P2 ribbing.

Bind off using the Icelandic Bind-Off for a stretchy finish. Video tutorial available here.

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Pattern: Crocodile Stitch Pillow

Make this trendy ruffle pillow as an accessory to your couch that also provides great lumbar support. The brighter the color, the better!

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Crocodile Stitch Pillow below!

Finished Measurements:

Approximately 12″ x 16″

Materials:
Two (2) skeins Loops & Threads Impeccable in Fern
Size H crochet hook
12″ x 16″ pillow form
Sewing needle

Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sc – single crochet

Instructions:

Crochet Pillow Front:
Ch 64 (or any multiple of 3 +4 sts)

Row 1: skip first 3 ch (counts as first dc) 1 dc in fourth ch from hook, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, 2 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until the end. Each dc is referred to as a post and each 2 dc set is referred to as a cluster.

Row 2: turn, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc down one side of the first post of the first cluster, ch 1, 5 dc up the second post of the first cluster, ch 1, *skip the next cluster, 5 dc down the first post of the next cluster, ch 1, 5 dc up the second post of the same cluster, ch 1.* Repeat from * to * until the last cluster, 1 sc in the last dc.

Row 3: turn, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in first sc, ch 2, 2 dc in the first crocodile stitch (in the cluster from Row 1), *ch 2, 2 dc into next cluster from Row 1 (including the ch 1 between the crocodile stitches from Row 2), ch 2, 2 dc in next crocodile stitch.* Repeat from * to * until the end.

Row 4: turn, ch 2, sc in first post, ch 1, *5 dc down the first post of the next cluster, ch 1, 5 dc up the second post of the same cluster, ch 1, skip the next cluster.* Repeat from * to * until the last cluster, 1 sc in the last dc.

Row 5: turn, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in first sc, *ch 2, 2 dc in next crocodile stitch (in the cluster from Row 3), ch 2, 2 dc in next cluster from Row 3 (including the ch 1 between the crocodile stitches from Row 4).* Repeat from * to * until the last sc, 2 dc in last sc.

Repeat Rows 2-5 nine (9) more times (ten times total), Repeat Row 2. Piece should measure 12 inches. If you need to do more or less repeats, be sure to end on an even row.

If you would like to see how the stitches are worked up and down the posts, I created an instructional video available here.


Crochet Pillow Back:
Ch 58

Row 1: skip first 2 ch, 1 dc in each ch across.
Row 2: turn, ch 2, 1 dc in each dc across.

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 12 inches.

Sewing:
Using a sewing needle and the same color yarn as the pillow and holding the wrong side of the front and back panels together, sew along three of the edges. 

When a crocodile stitch is the last stitch on the end of a row, be sure to sew into the middle of the post so one half of the crocodile stitch hangs off of the end to make frills.

Turn the pillow right side facing out and insert the pillow form, being sure to push the corners all the way in. Sew along the last edge, knot at the end, and hide the yarn end.