Posted on

Pattern: Crocodile Stitch Pillow

Make this trendy ruffle pillow as an accessory to your couch that also provides great lumbar support. The brighter the color, the better!


Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Crocodile Stitch Pillow below!

Finished Measurements:

Approximately 12″ x 16″

Materials:
Two (2) skeins Loops & Threads Impeccable in Fern
Size H crochet hook
12″ x 16″ pillow form
Sewing needle

Abbreviations:
Ch – chain
Dc – double crochet
St(s) – stitch(es)
Sc – single crochet

Instructions:

Crochet Pillow Front:
Ch 64 (or any multiple of 3 +4 sts)

Row 1: skip first 3 ch (counts as first dc) 1 dc in fourth ch from hook, *ch 2, skip 2 sts, 2 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * until the end. Each dc is referred to as a post and each 2 dc set is referred to as a cluster.

Row 2: turn, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc down one side of the first post of the first cluster, ch 1, 5 dc up the second post of the first cluster, ch 1, *skip the next cluster, 5 dc down the first post of the next cluster, ch 1, 5 dc up the second post of the same cluster, ch 1.* Repeat from * to * until the last cluster, 1 sc in the last dc.

Row 3: turn, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in first sc, ch 2, 2 dc in the first crocodile stitch (in the cluster from Row 1), *ch 2, 2 dc into next cluster from Row 1 (including the ch 1 between the crocodile stitches from Row 2), ch 2, 2 dc in next crocodile stitch.* Repeat from * to * until the end.

Row 4: turn, ch 2, sc in first post, ch 1, *5 dc down the first post of the next cluster, ch 1, 5 dc up the second post of the same cluster, ch 1, skip the next cluster.* Repeat from * to * until the last cluster, 1 sc in the last dc.

Row 5: turn, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in first sc, *ch 2, 2 dc in next crocodile stitch (in the cluster from Row 3), ch 2, 2 dc in next cluster from Row 3 (including the ch 1 between the crocodile stitches from Row 4).* Repeat from * to * until the last sc, 2 dc in last sc.

Repeat Rows 2-5 nine (9) more times (ten times total), Repeat Row 2. Piece should measure 12 inches. If you need to do more or less repeats, be sure to end on an even row.

If you would like to see how the stitches are worked up and down the posts, I created an instructional video available here.


Crochet Pillow Back:
Ch 58

Row 1: skip first 2 ch, 1 dc in each ch across.
Row 2: turn, ch 2, 1 dc in each dc across.

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 12 inches.

Sewing:
Using a sewing needle and the same color yarn as the pillow and holding the wrong side of the front and back panels together, sew along three of the edges. 

When a crocodile stitch is the last stitch on the end of a row, be sure to sew into the middle of the post so one half of the crocodile stitch hangs off of the end to make frills.

Turn the pillow right side facing out and insert the pillow form, being sure to push the corners all the way in. Sew along the last edge, knot at the end, and hide the yarn end.

Posted on

Pattern: Pottery Barn Cable Knit Throw

Make a blanket inspired by this Pottery Barn throw, also pictured above on the left. Once you knit the blanket, you’ll sew some faux fur fabric onto the wrong side of the piece.

Finished Measurements:
60 inches X 72 inches

Materials:
Four (4) skeins Loops & Threads Impeccable Big! in Aran
Size 10 1/2 Circular Knitting Needle
Cable Needle
Sewing Needle
Faux Sheepskin fabric, measuring approx. 60 inches X 72 inches
White thread
Safety pins

Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
Sts – stitches
CN – cable needle
Sl – slip

 

Instructions:
Knitting:
CO 336
Rows 1-10: K across.
Row 11: (WS) K10, P6, *P12, K2, P1, K1, P1, K2.* Repeat from * to * until last 16 sts. P6, K10.
Row 12: (RS) K16, *P2, K1, P1, K1, P2, K12.* Repeat from * to * until last 16 sts, K16.
Row 13: Repeat Row 11.
Row 14: Repeat Row 12.
Row 15: Repeat Row 11.
Row 16: K16, *P2, K1, P1, K1, P2, sl 3 sts to CN and hold to the back, K3, K3 from CN, sl 3 sts to CN and hold to the front, K3, K3 from CN.* Repeat from * to * until last 16 sts. K16.

Row 17: Repeat Row 11.
Row 18: Repeat Row 12.
Row 19: Repeat Row 11.
Row 20: Repeat Row 12.
Row 21: Repeat Row 11.
Row 22: Repeat Row 12.
Row 23: Repeat Row 11.
Row 24: Repeat Row 16.

Repeat Rows 17-24 until you reach the desired length.

Last 10 rows: K across.

Sewing:

Do not sew the fabric onto the K edging along the blanket. The K edging will be folded over later to hide the rough fabric edge. 


Lay the fabric, right side facing up, on top of the wrong side of the knitted blanket and attach using safety pins. Using a sewing needle and thread the same color as the yarn, sew the fabric onto the wrong side of the blanket. The seam should be inside the edging where the repeating pattern begins.


Sew diagonal lines across the blanket, 10 inches apart from each other. This will keep the fabric attached to the knitted blanket, even in the center. The thread you use should be thin enough that the lines will not be visible.


Fold over the knit edge along the top first, safety pinning it down. Sew the knit border to the blanket. Fold the knit edge along the side of the blanket next, being sure to fold it over the top edge just sewed down. Sew the knit border to the blanket. Repeat for the bottom edge and other side edge.


Viola! Edging complete.

Posted on

Pattern: Pinwheel Hot Pad


Make the perfect pinwheel star hot pad that is even along the edges to create a flat surface for those hot pots and pans.

Materials:

1 skein Cotlin (pink)
1/2 skein Cotlin (cream)
size “H” crochet hook

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Instructions:

Starting with pink yarn, chain 4. Slip stitch to form a ring.






Chain 3 (counts as 1st dc), 13 dc in ring. Slip stitch in top of chain 3.







Row 1: *Chain 27. Skip next dc, slip stitch in next dc. (1st petal). Repeat from * 5 times. Chain 27, slip stitch at base of 1st petal. (7 petals)

Row 2: *1 sc in first 13 chains of 1st petal. 3 sc in next chain (top of 1st petal). 1 sc in each of last 13 chains of 1st petal. (29 sc). Skip slip stitch. Repeat from * for each of the remaining petals all the way around.

Row 3:  *1 sc in each of the first 14 sc of 1st petal. 3 sc in next sc (top of petal). 1 sc in each of the remaining 14 sc of 1st petal. (31 sc). Repeat from * for each of the remaining petals all the way around.

Row 4: *1 sc in each of the first 15 sc of 1st petal. 3 sc in next sc (top of petal). 1 sc in each of the remaining 15 sc of 1st petal. (33 sc). Repeat from * for each of the remaining petals all the way around.

Row 5: *1 sc in each of the first 16 sc of 1st petal. 3 sc in next sc (top of petal). 1 sc in each of the remaining 16 sc of 1st petal. (35 sc). Repeat from * for each of the remaining petals all the way around. Fasten off.








Your work should look like this, with the petals not laying completely flat:








Hold the 1st petal at the tip (at the 3 sc in 1 sc point).




 








Twist the petal clockwise 180°, folding the petal on top of itself.













Halfway down the left side of the petal, make a crease so the front portion near the base is facing. Spread and flatten to create the shape.







Continue folding all 7 petals the same way. 















The back of the petal at the tip should be facing you. The front of the bottom half of the petal on the left should be facing you. Work Rows 6-8 with the work folded this way.





Row 6: Change to cream yarn. *Starting at the tip of the 1st petal, 3 sc in 1 sc. 1 sc in the next 7 sc. Attach the 1st petal to the 2nd petal using 1 sc at the 8th sc from the tip of each petal. 1 sc in the next 7 sc along the 2nd petal. Repeat from * for each of the remaining petals.



Row 7: Working in back loops only, 1 sc in each sc around.

Row 8: Working in front loops from Row 6 only, 1 sc in each sc around.

 
 
Work complete! The double edge ensures that hot pots or pans won’t wobble.