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Knitting Pattern: Fluffy V

A top down raglan sweater with a deep v-neck and double knit collar

Skill Level: Intermediate


Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Fluffy V below!
 
 

Sizing

The pattern is designed to have 2-3 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2-3 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:                        

33 (36.5, 40.5, 44.5, 49) (52.5, 57, 59.5, 63.5) inches or 84 (93, 103, 113, 124) (133, 145, 151, 161) cm

(B) Sleeve Length:                       

19.5 (19.5, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5) (21, 21, 21, 21) inches or 50 (50, 50, 50, 50) (53, 53, 53, 53) cm

(C) Total Length:                        

24.5 (24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5) (24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 24) inches or 62 (62, 62, 62, 62) (62, 62, 62, 61) cm

(D) Yoke Length:                       

8.5 (9.5, 11, 12.5, 12.5) (12.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15) inches or 22 (24, 28, 32, 32) (32, 34, 37, 38) cm

(E) Waist Length:                       

16 (15, 13.5, 12, 12) (12, 11, 10, 9) inches or 41 (38, 34, 30, 30) (30, 28, 25, 23) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width:            

12.5 (13.5, 14.5, 15, 16.5) (18.5, 20, 21, 22.5) inches or 32 (34, 37, 38, 42) (47, 51, 53, 57) cm

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 6 (US), 4.00 mm circular needles

Size 6 (US), 4.00 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED YARN

6 (6, 7, 8, 8) (9, 10, 11, 11) skeins Hobbii Upcycled Suri Alpaca in Ground Ginger (01), or 645 (720, 798, 873, 954) (1044, 1127, 1209, 1284) yards or 590 (658, 730, 798, 872) (955, 1031, 1106, 1174) meters of yarn that achieves gauge

GAUGE

14 sts x 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CO – cast on

K – knit

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)

k2togtbl – knit two stitches together through the back loop (decrease)

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

P – purl

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

s1wyif – slip one stitch with the yarn held in the front

SM – slip marker

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease)

St(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Pattern Notes

This raglan yoke sweater is knit from the top down and flat for the entire yoke. When you are done with the yoke increases, you will join in the round. The yoke includes a back body panel, two front panels, and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits and after you have shaped the v neck, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to work the double knit collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):

Using long tail cast on, CO 56 (58, 61, 63, 67) (72, 72, 81, 82) sts.

R1: K8 (8, 8, 8, 8) (8, 8, 8, 8), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 10) (14, 14, 16, 16), PM, K24 (26, 29, 31, 31) (28, 28, 33, 34), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 10) (14, 14, 16, 16), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 8) (8, 8, 8, 8).

R2: P across

For Sizes 2XL (3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

R3: K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until last st, M1R, K1. (12 sts increased).

R4: P across

Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, -) (3, 4, 3, 4) times for a total of – (-, -, -, -) (4, 5, 4, 5) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, -) (120, 132, 129, 142) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (16, 18, 16, 18) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, -) (22, 24, 24, 26) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (44, 48, 49, 54) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, -) (22, 24, 24, 26) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (16, 18, 16, 18) sts

For ALL Sizes:

R5: K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker section, K to last st, M1R, K1. (8 sts increased)

R6: P across

Repeat R5-6 an additional 16 (18, 19, 20, 23) (20, 22, 24, 25) times for a total of 17 (19, 20, 21, 24) (21, 23, 25, 26) repeats. You will now have 192 (210, 221, 231, 259) (288, 316, 329, 350) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 25 (27, 28, 29, 32) (37, 41, 41, 44) sts

Sleeve A: 42 (46, 48, 50, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 69, 73, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Sleeve B: 42 (46, 48, 50, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Left Front Panel: 25 (27, 28, 29, 32) (37, 41, 41, 44) sts

For Sizes M (L) ONLY:

R7: K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K to next marker, SM, K to last st, M1R, K1. (4 sts increased)

R8: P across

Repeat R7-8 an additional – (-, 0, 1, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of – (-, 0, 1, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have – (-, 225, 239, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, 29, 31, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, 50, 54, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: – (-, 67, 69, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, 50, 54, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, 29, 31, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For ALL Sizes:

R9: K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, *K to next marker, SM* until last marker section, K to last st, M1R, K1. (2 sts increased)

R10: P across

Repeat R9-10 an additional 2 (3, 4, 6, 5) (4, 4, 5, 5) times for a total of 3 (4, 5, 7, 6) (5, 5, 6, 6) repeats. Repeat R9 one more time until the last stitch. You will now have 200 (220, 237, 255, 273) (300, 328, 343, 364) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 29 (32, 35, 39, 39) (43, 47, 48, 51) sts

Sleeve A: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Sleeve B: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Left Front Panel: 29 (32, 35, 39, 39) (43, 47, 48, 51) sts

Begin working in the round. Using the last st from the last R9 you worked and the first st at the beginning of the row, K2tog to join your v-neck. K across all marker sections until you reach where you joined your v-neck, K across to the next marker. This marker now becomes your BOR. Your sts should be distributed as follows:

Right Sleeve: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Left Sleeve: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Front Panel: 57 (63, 69, 77, 77) (85, 93, 95, 101) sts

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work even knit rounds until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 11 (Set up Round): Place 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, place marker for the new BOR, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2, 2), K across 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts, place 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, K across 57 (63, 69, 77, 77) (85, 93, 95, 101) sts. You will now have 119 (131, 140, 150, 160) (179, 195, 202, 215) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

Rd 12: K across

Repeat Round 12 a total of 72 (66, 60, 52, 52) (52, 46, 42, 38) times, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.

Rds 13-20: *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern.

Collar:

With the RS facing, using the circular needle and beginning at the bottom of the V and working up the left side first, pick up and knit 98 (106, 114, 120, 130) (126, 130, 148, 152) sts along the v-neck collar edge.

Using the cable cast on method, CO 6 sts to the left needle. You will work the double knit collar across this section of sts and will pick up 1 st every other row from the remaining 98 (106, 114, 120, 130) (126, 130, 148, 152) picked up sts on each R3 below and join it with a k2togtbl.

Double Knit R1: (set up row) *K1, CO 1 st onto right needle tip using backwards loop cast on method*x5, k2togtbl, turn.

Double Knit R2: *s1wyif, k1* to last st, s1wyif.

Double Knit R3: *k1, s1wyif*x5, k2togtbl, turn.

Repeat Double Knit R2-3 until you have worked across all picked up sts on the collar and you have 12 sts remaining (6 stitches plus the 6 double knot paired stitches). Using your right needle, pick up 6 sts on the bottom left side of the V in front of the sts you picked up so the collar overlaps at the lowest point of the V.

Graft the live collar sts together with the picked up sts, treating the two paired double knit stitches as one for grafting purposes.

Turn your sweater inside out and sew the cable cast on sts along the bottom right side of the V.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd 1-9 (6, 6, 5, 4) (4, 3, 3, 3): K across

Rd 10 (7, 7, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4): K2tog, K until 2 sts before end, SSK.

Repeat Rds 1-10 (7, 7, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4) for a total of 8 (10, 12, 14, 15) (19, 22, 23, 25) repeats. You will now have 28 (28, 28, 28, 30) (30, 30, 32, 32) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for a total of 10 (20, 6, 6, 15) (1, 8, 4, –) repeats, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.

Rds 11-18: *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern. Repeat for second sleeve. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Fluffy V as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #FluffyV – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Adelaide Bonnet

A vintage-inspired baby bonnet


Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Adelaide Bonnet below!
 

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

This bonnet is made in one piece with the back edge sewn together at the end.

An I-cord drawstring is attached at the end to help the bonnet frame the face.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

60-65 yards of Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic in Blueberry Bushel

Size 8 double pointed needles

Tapestry needle

Your favorite faux fur pompom

Size:

0-3 months

Finished Measurements:

7 inches tall x 10 inches around (measuring from left cheek to right cheek)

 Gauge:

16 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

CO – cast on

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip

St(s) – stitch(es)

BO – bind off

Ssk – slip stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches

INSTRUCTIONS

Bonnet:

Loosely CO 51 sts

Rows 1-30: Sl 1 purlwise, *P1, K1*

Using the Icelandic Bind Offmethod, BO using K across. This forms the bonnet edge that frames the face.

Fold the piece in half and sew the CO edge to the other CO edge together using a tapestry needle.

I-Cord:

CO 3

Work the I-cord for approximately 30 rows, or until it measures 7 inches.

Here is a link to a helpful video that demonstrates how to attach the I-cord edging. Work 2 sts of I-cord until only one stitch remains. Slip the last stitch knitwise. With your right needle and the right side of the bonnet facing you, pick up the right side edge of the first slipped stitch of the bonnet. Pick up the stitch by inserting your needle from top to bottom. Knit the last two sts together as if working a ssk.

Continue attaching the I-cord in this manner along the entire bottom edge of the bonnet. When you have finished attaching the I-cord along the entire bottom edge, work the I-cord for approximately 30 rows, or until it measures 7 inches.

Pompom:

Find the point of the bonnet at the back of the head and attach your favorite faux fur pompom.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Adelaide Bonnet as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #AdelaideBonnet– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!