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Knitting Pattern: Fluffy V

A top down raglan sweater with a deep v-neck and double knit collar

Skill Level: Intermediate

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Fluffy V below!
 
 

Sizing

The pattern is designed to have 2-3 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2-3 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width:                        

33 (36.5, 40.5, 44.5, 49) (52.5, 57, 59.5, 63.5) inches or 84 (93, 103, 113, 124) (133, 145, 151, 161) cm

(B) Sleeve Length:                       

19.5 (19.5, 19.5, 19.5, 19.5) (21, 21, 21, 21) inches or 50 (50, 50, 50, 50) (53, 53, 53, 53) cm

(C) Total Length:                        

24.5 (24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5) (24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 24) inches or 62 (62, 62, 62, 62) (62, 62, 62, 61) cm

(D) Yoke Length:                       

8.5 (9.5, 11, 12.5, 12.5) (12.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15) inches or 22 (24, 28, 32, 32) (32, 34, 37, 38) cm

(E) Waist Length:                       

16 (15, 13.5, 12, 12) (12, 11, 10, 9) inches or 41 (38, 34, 30, 30) (30, 28, 25, 23) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width:            

12.5 (13.5, 14.5, 15, 16.5) (18.5, 20, 21, 22.5) inches or 32 (34, 37, 38, 42) (47, 51, 53, 57) cm

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 6 (US), 4.00 mm circular needles

Size 6 (US), 4.00 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED YARN

6 (6, 7, 8, 8) (9, 10, 11, 11) skeins Hobbii Upcycled Suri Alpaca in Ground Ginger (01), or 645 (720, 798, 873, 954) (1044, 1127, 1209, 1284) yards or 590 (658, 730, 798, 872) (955, 1031, 1106, 1174) meters of yarn that achieves gauge

GAUGE

14 sts x 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

CO – cast on

K – knit

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)

k2togtbl – knit two stitches together through the back loop (decrease)

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

P – purl

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

s1wyif – slip one stitch with the yarn held in the front

SM – slip marker

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease)

St(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Pattern Notes

This raglan yoke sweater is knit from the top down and flat for the entire yoke. When you are done with the yoke increases, you will join in the round. The yoke includes a back body panel, two front panels, and the beginning of two sleeve panels. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits and after you have shaped the v neck, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. Then, you pick up stitches along the cast on edge to work the double knit collar. You end by working each sleeve individually.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

INSTRUCTIONS

Yoke Increases (Worked Flat):

Using long tail cast on, CO 56 (58, 61, 63, 67) (72, 72, 81, 82) sts.

R1: K8 (8, 8, 8, 8) (8, 8, 8, 8), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 10) (14, 14, 16, 16), PM, K24 (26, 29, 31, 31) (28, 28, 33, 34), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 10) (14, 14, 16, 16), PM, K8 (8, 8, 8, 8) (8, 8, 8, 8).

R2: P across

For Sizes 2XL (3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

R3: K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until last st, M1R, K1. (12 sts increased).

R4: P across

Repeat R3-4 an additional – (-, -, -, -) (3, 4, 3, 4) times for a total of – (-, -, -, -) (4, 5, 4, 5) repeats. Repeat R3 one more time and do not turn your work. You will now have – (-, -, -, -) (120, 132, 129, 142) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (16, 18, 16, 18) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, -, -, -) (22, 24, 24, 26) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (44, 48, 49, 54) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, -, -, -) (22, 24, 24, 26) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, -, -, -) (16, 18, 16, 18) sts

For ALL Sizes:

R5: K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, *K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* until last marker section, K to last st, M1R, K1. (8 sts increased)

R6: P across

Repeat R5-6 an additional 16 (18, 19, 20, 23) (20, 22, 24, 25) times for a total of 17 (19, 20, 21, 24) (21, 23, 25, 26) repeats. You will now have 192 (210, 221, 231, 259) (288, 316, 329, 350) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 25 (27, 28, 29, 32) (37, 41, 41, 44) sts

Sleeve A: 42 (46, 48, 50, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 69, 73, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Sleeve B: 42 (46, 48, 50, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Left Front Panel: 25 (27, 28, 29, 32) (37, 41, 41, 44) sts

For Sizes M (L) ONLY:

R7: K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K to next marker, SM, K to last st, M1R, K1. (4 sts increased)

R8: P across

Repeat R7-8 an additional – (-, 0, 1, -) (-, -, -, –) times for a total of – (-, 0, 1, -) (-, -, -, –) repeats. You will now have – (-, 225, 239, -) (-, -, -, –) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: – (-, 29, 31, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve A: – (-, 50, 54, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Back Panel: – (-, 67, 69, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Sleeve B: – (-, 50, 54, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

Left Front Panel: – (-, 29, 31, -) (-, -, -, –) sts

For ALL Sizes:

R9: K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, *K to next marker, SM* until last marker section, K to last st, M1R, K1. (2 sts increased)

R10: P across

Repeat R9-10 an additional 2 (3, 4, 6, 5) (4, 4, 5, 5) times for a total of 3 (4, 5, 7, 6) (5, 5, 6, 6) repeats. Repeat R9 one more time until the last stitch. You will now have 200 (220, 237, 255, 273) (300, 328, 343, 364) sts distributed as follows:

Right Front Panel: 29 (32, 35, 39, 39) (43, 47, 48, 51) sts

Sleeve A: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Sleeve B: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Left Front Panel: 29 (32, 35, 39, 39) (43, 47, 48, 51) sts

Begin working in the round. Using the last st from the last R9 you worked and the first st at the beginning of the row, K2tog to join your v-neck. K across all marker sections until you reach where you joined your v-neck, K across to the next marker. This marker now becomes your BOR. Your sts should be distributed as follows:

Right Sleeve: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Back Panel: 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts

Left Sleeve: 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts

Front Panel: 57 (63, 69, 77, 77) (85, 93, 95, 101) sts

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, work even knit rounds until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 11 (Set up Round): Place 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, place marker for the new BOR, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2, 2), K across 58 (64, 67, 69, 79) (86, 94, 99, 106) sts, place 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, K across 57 (63, 69, 77, 77) (85, 93, 95, 101) sts. You will now have 119 (131, 140, 150, 160) (179, 195, 202, 215) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body:

Rd 12: K across

Repeat Round 12 a total of 72 (66, 60, 52, 52) (52, 46, 42, 38) times, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.

Rds 13-20: *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern.

Collar:

With the RS facing, using the circular needle and beginning at the bottom of the V and working up the left side first, pick up and knit 98 (106, 114, 120, 130) (126, 130, 148, 152) sts along the v-neck collar edge.

Using the cable cast on method, CO 6 sts to the left needle. You will work the double knit collar across this section of sts and will pick up 1 st every other row from the remaining 98 (106, 114, 120, 130) (126, 130, 148, 152) picked up sts on each R3 below and join it with a k2togtbl.

Double Knit R1: (set up row) *K1, CO 1 st onto right needle tip using backwards loop cast on method*x5, k2togtbl, turn.

Double Knit R2: *s1wyif, k1* to last st, s1wyif.

Double Knit R3: *k1, s1wyif*x5, k2togtbl, turn.

Repeat Double Knit R2-3 until you have worked across all picked up sts on the collar and you have 12 sts remaining (6 stitches plus the 6 double knot paired stitches). Using your right needle, pick up 6 sts on the bottom left side of the V in front of the sts you picked up so the collar overlaps at the lowest point of the V.

Graft the live collar sts together with the picked up sts, treating the two paired double knit stitches as one for grafting purposes.

Turn your sweater inside out and sew the cable cast on sts along the bottom right side of the V.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 42 (46, 50, 54, 58) (64, 70, 74, 78) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you cast on sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd 1-9 (6, 6, 5, 4) (4, 3, 3, 3): K across

Rd 10 (7, 7, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4): K2tog, K until 2 sts before end, SSK.

Repeat Rds 1-10 (7, 7, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4) for a total of 8 (10, 12, 14, 15) (19, 22, 23, 25) repeats. You will now have 28 (28, 28, 28, 30) (30, 30, 32, 32) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for a total of 10 (20, 6, 6, 15) (1, 8, 4, –) repeats, or until you reach 1.5 inches less than your desired length.

Rds 11-18: *K1, P1*

Bind off using the tubular bind off in ribbing pattern. Repeat for second sleeve. Weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Fluffy V as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #FluffyV – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Knitting Pattern: Side Cable Pullover

A raglan yoke sweater with textured cable knit sleeves

Skill Level: Intermediate

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Side Cable Pullover below!

SIZING

The pattern is designed to have 2 inches of positive ease. Select a size based on your actual bust width plus the 2 inches of positive ease, totaling the bust width in (A).

(A) Bust Width: 32 (35, 39.5, 43.5, 48) (52, 54.5, 60, 63) inches or 81 (89, 100, 110, 122) (132, 138, 152, 160) cm

(B) Sleeve Length: 19 (19.5, 19.5, 20, 20) (20.5, 20.5, 21, 21) inches or 48 (50, 50, 51, 51) (52, 52, 53, 53) cm

(C) Total Length: 20 (20.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5) (21.5, 21.5, 22, 22) inches or 51 (52, 52, 53, 55) (55, 55, 56, 56) cm

(D) Yoke Length: 7.5 (8, 9, 9.5, 9.5) (10, 10.5, 11, 11.5) inches or 19 (20, 23, 24, 24) (25, 27, 28, 29) cm

(E) Waist Length: 12.5 (12.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12) (11.5, 11, 11, 10.5) inches or 32 (32, 29, 29, 30) (29, 28, 28, 27) cm

(F) Upper Sleeve Width: 12 (12.5, 13, 14, 15.5) (17, 19, 20, 21) inches or 30 (32, 33, 36, 39) (43, 48, 51, 53) cm

GAUGE

17 sts x 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

NOTIONS

Stitch markers

Cable needle

Scrap yarn

Tapestry needle

SUGGESTED NEEDLES

Size 7 (US), 4.50 mm circular needles

Size 7 (US), 4.50 mm double pointed needles or small circular needles

SUGGESTED YARN

4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 7, 7) skeins Knitologie Swirl in Dance Party

          or 771 (848, 927, 1037, 1163) (1277, 1373, 1520, 1596) yards

          or 705 (775, 848, 948, 1063) (1168, 1255, 1390, 1459) meters of worsted weight yarn

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

BO – bind off

BOR – beginning of round

C6B – place 6 sts onto a cable needle and hold them to the back, *K1B, P1* across 6 sts, *K1B, P1* across 6 sts held on cable needle

C6F – place 6 sts onto a cable needle and hold them to the front, *K1B, P1* across 6 sts, *K1B, P1* across 6 sts held on cable needle

CO – cast on

K – knit

K1B – (knit 1 below) insert your needle into the stitch below the next live stitch on your left needle and knit into this stitch

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease)

M1L – pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back, and knit into the back of the stitch (increase)

M1R – pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from the back to the front, and knit into the front of the stitch (increase)

P – purl

P1B – (purl 1 below) insert your needle into the stitch below the next live stitch on your left needle and purl into this stitch

PM – place marker

Rd(s) – round(s)

RS – right side

SM – slip marker

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease)

St(s) – stitch(es)

Wrp-tk – with the yarn in the back, slip the next stitch purl wise, bring the yarn to the front, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn

Wrp-tp – with the yarn in the front, slip the next stitch purl wise, bring the yarn to the back, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn

WS – wrong side

YO – yarn over; bring the working yarn to the front of your work and bring it over the top of the right needle

FISHERMAN’S RIB CABLE PATTERN

Worked across 24 sts

Rd 1: *K1B, P1*

Rd 2: *K1, P1B*

Rds 3, 5, 7: Repeat Rd 1

Rd 4, 6, 8: Repeat Rd 2

Rd 9: C6F, *K1B, P1*

Rd 10: Repeat Rd 2

Rd 11: *K1B, P1*

Rd 12: *K1, P1B*

Rds 13, 15, 17: Repeat Rd 1

Rd 14, 16, 18: Repeat Rd 2

Rd 19: *K1B, P1* across 12 sts, C6B

Rd 20: Repeat Rd 2

Pattern Notes

This raglan yoke sweater is knit from the top down and in the round. You first work the yoke, which includes a front and a back body panel and the beginning of two sleeve panels. The back panel includes short rows near the back neckline. When your yoke is long enough to reach your armpits, you separate the sleeve panels from the body panels, holding the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn and joining the body panels to finish the body of the sweater down to the waist. The pattern includes optional bust darts, including suggested spacing for each size and a description to customize bust darts based on your own measurements. You end by working each sleeve individually. The arm panels feature a fisherman’s rib cable pattern that carries down the entire sleeve.

Stitch counts and round counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). It is recommended that you highlight the stitch and round counts for your size before beginning to knit.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

It is recommended you check your gauge on both the circular needles and double pointed needles (or small circular needles) to ensure your tension is the same. Adjust your needle size as necessary to obtain gauge.

A Note About Beginning the Yoke and the Fisherman’s Rib

The ribbing for the Fisherman’s Rib should line up with the initial ribbing at the collar. The first time you work the Fisherman’s Rib, be sure to work a K/K1B into a knit stitch from the round before and a P/P1B into a purl stitch from the round before. Do not work the first cable in the Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until after you have worked the Ribbing Panel Marker Placement section and have 24 sts for the arm panel between two added markers to keep the fisherman’s rib consistent in the center of the arm panel.

A Note About Sleeve Increases

When working the sleeve increases, be sure to keep the Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern consistent as you add stitches, and use the stitch next to it to determine whether you should work a K or a P the first time you are working a new stitch.

If the stitch in the previous round was a M1R or M1L and the Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern calls for you to work a K1B or P1B, just do a K or a P stitch for that round only when you are first working the new stitch.

INSTRUCTIONS

Collar:

Using long tail cast on and circular needles, CO 76 (80, 92, 100, 104) (104, 104, 112, 112) sts. PM for BOR and begin working in the round.

Rds 1-6: *K1, P1*

Short Rows:

Set up round: *K1, P1* across 12 (12, 12, 14, 18) (18, 18, 20, 20) sts, PM, K26 (28, 34, 36, 34) (34, 34, 36, 36), PM, *K1, P1* across 12 (12, 12, 14, 18) (18, 18, 20, 20) sts, PM, K26 (28, 34, 36, 34) (34, 34, 36, 36).

Turn your work so the WS is facing

R1: P to 3 sts before marker, wrp-tp, turn

R2: K to 3 sts before marker, wrp-tk, turn

R3: P to 3 sts before last wrapped stitch, wrp-tp, turn

R4: K to 4 sts before last wrapped stitch, wrp-tk, turn

Repeat R3-4 one additional time.  On the last R4, do not turn the work at the end. Begin working in the round again and K to the BOR. When you knit over the wrapped stitches, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the wrapped stitch.

Yoke Increases:

See A Note About Beginning the Yoke and the Fisherman’s Rib in the Pattern Notes

For Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) ONLY:

Rd 7: *K1, M1L, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM* (12 increases)

Rd 8: *K1, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1, SM, K across to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 7-8 an additional – (-, -, -, 2) (2, 2, 1, 1) times.

Ribbing Panel Marker Placement

Rd 9: *K1, PM, M1L, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, PM, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM* (12 increases)

Rd 10: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

 Rd 11: *K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, SM, K1, M1L, K1, M1L, K until 2 sts before marker, M1R, K1, M1R, K1, SM* (12 increases)

Rd 12: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 11-12 an additional – (-, -, -, 1) (3, 4, 5, 7) times. You will now have – (-, -, -, 176) (200, 212, 220, 244) sts distributed as follows:

Left Sleeve: – (-, -, -, 30) (34, 36, 38, 42) sts

Front Panel: – (-, -, -, 58) (66, 70, 72, 80) sts

Right Sleeve: – (-, -, -, 30) (34, 36, 38, 42) sts

Back Panel: – (-, -, -, 58) (66, 70, 72, 80) sts

For Sizes XS (S, M, L) ONLY:

Rd 13: *K1, M1L, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (8 increases)

Rd 14: *K1, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, K1, SM, K across to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 13-14 an additional 5 (5, 5, 4, -) (-, -, -, –) times.

Ribbing Panel Marker Placement

Rd 15: *K1, PM, M1L, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern until 1 st before marker, M1R, PM, K1, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (8 increases)

Rd 16: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

For ALL SIZES:

Rd 17: *K1, M1L, K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (8 increases)

Rd 18: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 17-18 an additional 12 (14, 15, 16, 17) (19, 21, 24, 24) times. You will now have 236 (256, 276, 284, 320) (360, 388, 420, 444) sts distributed as follows:

Left Sleeve: 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts

Front Panel: 66 (72, 80, 82, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts

Right Sleeve: 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts

Back Panel: 66 (72, 80, 82, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts

For Sizes L ONLY:

Rd 19: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K1, M1L, K until 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM* (4 increases)

Rd 20: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 19-20 an additional – (-, -, 2, -) (-, -, -, –) times. You will now have 236 (256, 276, 296, 320) (360, 388, 420, 444) sts distributed as follows:

Left Sleeve: 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts

Front Panel: 66 (72, 80, 88, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts

Right Sleeve: 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts

Back Panel: 66 (72, 80, 88, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts

For Sizes XL (2XL) ONLY:

Rd 21: *K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker, SM, K to next marker, SM*

Repeat Rd 21 an additional – (-, -, -, 7) (2, -, -, –) times.

For ALL Sizes:

Try on your piece. The length should fall just below your armpits, where you can comfortably pinch together either side of a sleeve panel under your arms. If it is too short, repeat Rd 21 until you reach your desired length.

Separate Sleeves from Body:

Rd 22 (Set up Round): Place 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, PM for the new BOR, CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, K across 66 (72, 80, 88, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts, place 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder to save for later, CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, PM, CO 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) sts, K across 66 (72, 80, 88, 94) (106, 114, 122, 130) sts. You will now have 136 (148, 168, 184, 196) (220, 236, 252, 268) sts on your needles, not counting the sleeve sts on the scrap yarn.

Body with Bust Darts: (Optional)

Use this section if you would like to add bust darts to your sweater and make it more form fitting at the waist. For instructions on how to calculate and customize the bust darts to your particular size, please see the Pattern Notes about Adding Bust Darts.

Rd 23: (setup round) K13 (15, 18, 20, 22) (26, 29, 32, 34), PM for bust dart marker, K40 (42, 44, 48, 50) (54, 56, 58, 62), PM for bust dart marker, K across to next underarm marker, SM, K across

Rd 24: K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before bust dart marker, SSK, K1, K until next bust dart marker, SM, K1, K2tog, K until 3 sts before underarm marker, SSK, K1, SM, K across.

Rd 25: K across

Repeat Rds 24-25 an additional 4 (6, 7, 8, 8) (8, 8, 10, 11) times. You will now have 116 (120, 136, 148, 160) (184, 200, 208, 220) sts.

Rd 26: K across

Repeat Rd 26 a total of 57 (52, 46, 43, 45) (43, 40, 36, 31) times, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd 27-32: *K1, P1*

Bind off in ribbing pattern.

Body without Bust Darts:

Rd 33: K across

Repeat Rd 33 a total of 67 (66, 62, 61, 63) (61, 58, 58, 55) times, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd 53-58: *K1, P1*

Bind off in ribbing pattern.

Sleeves:

(Set up Round): Remove 52 (56, 58, 60, 66) (74, 80, 88, 92) sts from scrap yarn and distribute evenly along double pointed needles or small circular needles. Find the bottom of the armpit (where you bound off sts at the sleeve separation), and pick up 2 (2, 4, 4, 4) (4, 4, 4, 4) sts. PM in the middle of the picked up sts at the bottom of the armpit to mark the BOR.

Rd1-7 (6, 5, 5, 4) (4, 3, 3, 3): K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K to marker

Rd8 (7, 6, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4): K1, K2tog, K to marker, SM, Fisherman’s Rib Cable Pattern, SM, K until 3 sts before end, SSK, K1

Repeat Rds 1-8 (7, 6, 6, 5) (5, 4, 4, 4) an additional 11 (13, 15, 16, 18) (22, 25, 28, 30) times. You will now have 30 (30, 30, 30, 32) (32, 32, 34, 34) sts.

Repeat Rd1 for a total of 9 (10, 12, 9, 16) (-, 10, 1, –) repeats, or until you reach 1 inch less than your desired length.

Rd11-16: *K1, P1*

Bind off and weave in ends using a tapestry needle. Block your garment.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Side Cable Pullover as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #SideCablePullover– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Broken Ladder Socks

Toe-up whelk stitch socks

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Broken Ladder Socks below!
 

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

These socks are worked from the toe-up and the length can be easily adjusted to fit the average woman’s foot.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

1 skein Loops & Threads Perfect Pair in Born to Run
Size 1 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Size:

Adult

Gauge:

28 sts x 36 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).

P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).

Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).

Welk Stitch Pattern:

Row 1: *K1, sl1, K2*

Row 2: *P1, sl1, P2*

Rows 3-4: *K3, sl1* 

INSTRUCTIONS

Toe Shaping:
Using provisional cast on method and the scrap yarn, cast on 12 stitches
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Purl across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K4 (add a needle) K4, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to *
Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 40 sts total, or 10 sts per needle

Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 7-8 until you have 52 sts total, 13 sts per needle

Rounds 9-10: K across
Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 9-11 until you have 60 sts total, 15 sts per needle

Rounds 12-14: K across
Round 15: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

You should now have 64 sts total, 16 sts per needle

Foot:
Round 16: Needle 1 – work Whelk Stitch pattern
    Needle 2 – work Whelk Stitch pattern
    Needle 3 – K across needle
    Needle 4 – K across needle

Repeat Round 16 until the sock fits from your toes to the bend in the top of your foot where your ankle starts. 

Heel Flap:
Turn and work across Needles 3 and 4 only (worked flat), leaving Needles 1 and 2 unworked. 

Row 17: Sl1, P across, turn
Row 18: Sl 1, K across, turn

Repeat Rows 17 and 18 for a total of 22 rows total.

Heel Shaping:
Row 19: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 20: Sl1, K5, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 21: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)  
Row 22: Sl1, K7, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 23: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 24: Sl1, K9, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 25: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 26: Sl1, K11, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 27: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 28: Sl1, K13, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 29: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 30: Sl1, K15, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 31: Sl1, P16, P2tog, turn

Row 32: Sl1, K across until last 2 sts, SSK. Split the 18 heel flap sts evenly across 2 needles (9 sts per needle). The first needle now becomes Needle 4 and the second needle now becomes Needle 1. Begin working in the round again.

Round 33: On Needle 1, pick up and K 11 sts along heel flap edge, work across Needles 2 and 3 in Whelk Stitch pattern, on Needle 4, pick up and K 11 sts along heel flap edge, K across last 9 sts on the same needle.

Gusset Shaping: (decrease)
Round 34: Needle 1 – K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
    Needles 2-3 – Work Whelk Stitch pattern
    Needle 4 – K1, SSK, K to end

Round 35: K across Needles 1 and 4, Whelk Stitch pattern across Needles 2 and 3.

Repeat Rounds 34-35 until there are 16 sts per needle

Ankle:
Round 36: Work Whelk Stitch pattern across all needles until you reach 1 inch below desired length

Round 37: *K1, P1* 

Repeat Round 37 for 1 inch. 

Bind off using Icelandic Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Repeat pattern for second sock.

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Pattern: Show Me Your Spots Cowl

A bright and colorful spotty cowl

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Show Me Your Spots Cowl below!

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Advanced Beginner

Pattern Notes:

This cowl is knit in one piece in the round and top down. It is meant to use nearly all yarn in the skein listed below.

This pattern uses a color work chart for the Spots Pattern.

When stitches appear between * and *, repeat until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

1 skein Yarn Bee Pigment & Fiber in Friday’s in Florence

Size 2 (US) circular knitting needles

Stitch marker

Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

17 inches tall x 32 inches around

Gauge:

28 sts x 28 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

CO – cast on

St(s) – stitch(es)

MC – main color

CC – contrast color

INSTRUCTIONS

Color ID:

Color A: Silver

Color B: Green

Color C: Yellow

Color D: Maroon

Color E: Blue

Color F: Black

Spots Pattern:

CO 216 sts. Place marker at beginning of round. Begin working in the round.

Rounds 1-3: With Color A, *K1, P1*

Rounds 4-13: With Color A as MC and Color B as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 14-23: With Color C as MC and Color D as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 24-33: With Color E as MC and Color F as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 34-43: With Color B as MC and Color C as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 44-53: With Color D as MC and Color E as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 54-63: With Color F as MC and Color A as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 64-66: With Color F, *K1, P1*

Bind off. Use a tapestry needle to weave in ends. 

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Show Me Your Spots Cowl as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #ShowMeYourSpotsCowl – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Adelaide Bonnet

A vintage-inspired baby bonnet

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Adelaide Bonnet below!
 

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

This bonnet is made in one piece with the back edge sewn together at the end.

An I-cord drawstring is attached at the end to help the bonnet frame the face.

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

60-65 yards of Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic in Blueberry Bushel

Size 8 double pointed needles

Tapestry needle

Your favorite faux fur pompom

Size:

0-3 months

Finished Measurements:

7 inches tall x 10 inches around (measuring from left cheek to right cheek)

 Gauge:

16 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

CO – cast on

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip

St(s) – stitch(es)

BO – bind off

Ssk – slip stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches

INSTRUCTIONS

Bonnet:

Loosely CO 51 sts

Rows 1-30: Sl 1 purlwise, *P1, K1*

Using the Icelandic Bind Offmethod, BO using K across. This forms the bonnet edge that frames the face.

Fold the piece in half and sew the CO edge to the other CO edge together using a tapestry needle.

I-Cord:

CO 3

Work the I-cord for approximately 30 rows, or until it measures 7 inches.

Here is a link to a helpful video that demonstrates how to attach the I-cord edging. Work 2 sts of I-cord until only one stitch remains. Slip the last stitch knitwise. With your right needle and the right side of the bonnet facing you, pick up the right side edge of the first slipped stitch of the bonnet. Pick up the stitch by inserting your needle from top to bottom. Knit the last two sts together as if working a ssk.

Continue attaching the I-cord in this manner along the entire bottom edge of the bonnet. When you have finished attaching the I-cord along the entire bottom edge, work the I-cord for approximately 30 rows, or until it measures 7 inches.

Pompom:

Find the point of the bonnet at the back of the head and attach your favorite faux fur pompom.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Adelaide Bonnet as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #AdelaideBonnet– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Sunset on the Water

A color gradient shawl reminiscent of a sunset

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Sunset on the Water below!
 

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Beginner

Pattern Notes:

This pattern uses all of the Stone Washed 10g balls in the Scheepjes Colour Pack Stone Washed – River Washed

Repeat stitches that appear between * and * until the end of the row

COMPONENTS

Materials:

1 Scheepjes Colour Pack Stone Washed – River Washed, or 36 10g skeins of Scheepjes Stone Washed in each of the colors listed in the Color Layout section below

Size 4 (US) needles

Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

65” x 16”

Gauge:

25 sts x 20 rows = 4 inches in Linen Stitch

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip

CO – cast on

St(s) – stitch(es)

BO – bind off

INSTRUCTIONS

Color Layout

Before you cast on, organize the Stone Washed mini skeins in the following order:

A

Pink Quartzite

Moon Stone

Axinite

Brown Agate

Morganite

Coral

Carnelian

Red Jasper

Rhodochrosite

Tourmaline

Rose Quartz

Lilac Quartz

Garnet

Corundum Ruby

Deep Amethyst

Lepidolite

Obsidian

Black

B

Crystal Quartz

Larimar

Amazonite

Green Agate

Turquoise

Blue Apatite

Malachite

Fosterite

Lanada Jade

Pedirot

New Jade

Lemon Quartz

Enstatite

Citrine

Beryl

Yellow Jasper

Boulder Opal

Smokey Quartz

Linen Stitch

With Color A, CO 104 sts

Row 1: With Color A, *P1, sl1 with yarn held in the back*

Row 2: With Color B, *K1, sl1 with yarn held in the front*

Row 3: With Color B, *P1, sl1 with yarn held in the back*

Row 4: With Color A, *K1, sl1 with yarn held in the front*

Row 5: Repeat Row 1 

Repeat Rows 2-5 until you run through all of the colors. When you finish one color, move to the next color listed in the same column. Be sure to work both Rows 2 and 3, or Rows 4 and 5, in the same color before moving onto the next color in the column. It’s ok if the Color A yarn doesn’t end at the same time as the paired Color B yarn – that adds to the uniqueness of your garment!

When you have used all 10g skeins, BO after working an even row.

Cut yarn. Weave in ends using tapestry needle.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making Sunset on the Water as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #SunsetOnTheWater– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Staggered Pinwheel Shawl

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Staggered Pinwheel Shawl below!

ABOUT

Skill Level:
Intermediate
Pattern Notes:
This shawl is worked in wedges using offsetting short rows to make the staggered wedge edges. This pattern is designed to use the entire skein for each of the skeins in the materials list. If you lose out on yarn chicken in the last wedges, work the last RS row of the wedge until you run out of yarn and continue with the next wedge.
When the symbol * appears in the pattern, repeat the stitches that appear between the two *s until the end of the round, unless indicated otherwise.
COMPONENTS
Materials:
1 skein Loops & Threads Joy DK in Leaf (Color A)
1 skein Loops & Threads Joy DK in Cloud (Color B)
1 skein Loops & Threads Joy DK in Mint (Color C)
Size 6 circular needle
Tapestry needle
Size:
Adult
Finished Measurements:
55 inches long from end to end, 24 inches deep 
Gauge:
16 sts x 17 rows = 4 inches in garter st
STITCH ABBREVIATIONS
CO – cast on
St(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
RS – right side
K – knit
P – purl 
Wrp-tk – with the yarn in the back, slip the next stitch purlwise, bring the yarn to the front, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn
Wrp-tp – with the yarn in the front, slip the next stitch purlwise, bring the yarn to the back, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn
Yo – yarn over
SK2P – slip the next stitch knitwise, knit the next two stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over the two stitches that were knit together
K3tog – knit three stitches together
 
INSTRUCTIONS 
Note: in working Rows 6, 13, 18, and 23 below, be sure to pick up the wrapped stitch and work it together with the stitch that it’s wrapped around.
In Color A, CO 101 sts.
Row 1: (RS) *K,* turn.
Row 2: (WS) *K* until last 4 sts in current wedge color, wrp-tk.
Row 3: (RS) *K,* turn.
Row 4: (WS) *K* until 4 sts before wrapped stitch, wrp-tk.
Row 5: (RS) *K,* turn.
Repeat Rows 4-5 until you work Row 5 across 5 sts. Cut yarn and turn.
Row 6: (WS) In Color B, CO 8 sts, *P* until last 8 sts in previous wedge color, wrp-tp.
Row 7: (RS) *K1, yo, SK2P, yo* until last st, K1, turn.
Row 8: (WS) *P* until last 4 sts in current wedge color, wrp-tp.
Row 9: (RS) K2, yo, K3tog, yo, *K1, yo, K3tog, yo* until last 4 sts, K4, turn.
Row 10: (WS) *P* until 4 sts before wrapped stitch, wrp-tp.
Row 11: (RS) *K1, yo, SK2P, yo* until last st, K1, turn.
Row 12: (WS) *P* until 4 sts before wrapped stitch, wrp-tp.
Repeat Rows 9-12 until you have 5 sts remaining on a RS row, K5. Cut yarn and turn.
Row 13: (RS) In Color C and starting from the thin end of the wedges (the opposite side of the piece that you just finished working), skip first 8 sts in Color A, skip next 8 sts in Color B, *K* until end, CO 8 sts at the end, turn.
Row 14: (WS) *K* until last 4 sts in the current wedge color, wrp-tk.
Row 15: (RS) *K,* turn.
Row 16: (WS) *K* until 4 sts before wrapped stitch, wrp-tk.
Row 17: (RS) *K,* turn.
Repeat Rows 16-17 until you work Row 17 across 5 sts. Cut yarn and turn.
Row 18: (RS) In Color A and starting from the thin end of the wedges (the opposite side of the piece that you just finished working), skip the 8 sts of all other wedges, including the first 8 sts of the previous wedge color, *K* until end, CO 8 sts at the end, turn.
Row 19: (WS) *K* until last 4 sts in current wedge color, wrp-tk.
Row 20: (RS) *K,* turn.
Row 21: (WS) *K* until 4 sts before wrapped stitch, wrp-tk.
Row 22: (RS) *K,* turn.
Repeat Rows 21-22 until you work Row 22 across 5 sts. Cut yarn and turn.
Repeat Rows 6-22 two more times, then repeat Rows 6-17 one more time. For each Row 13 and Row 18 worked, be sure to skip the 8 sts of all other wedges, including the first 8 sts of the previous wedge color, at the beginning of the row.
Note: For Row 23, you’ll be working across all remaining stitches on all wedges.
Row 23: (RS) In Color C, and starting from the thin end of the wedges (the opposite side of the piece that you just finished working) *K,* turn.
Row 24: (WS) Bind off. Weave in ends using tapestry needle.
THANK YOU!
I hope you enjoyed making the Staggered Pinwheel Shawl as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #staggeredpinwheelshawl – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!
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Pattern: Broken Seed Stitch x Slouch

A slouchy beanie using the full skein of Caron x Pantone
Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Broken Seed Stitch x Slouch below!

 

Pattern Notes:
This hat is knit in the round from the bottom up. The pattern is designed to use the entire skein of Caron X Pantone with minimal yarn waste.
When the symbol * appears in the pattern, repeat the stitches that appear between the two *s until the end of the round, unless indicated otherwise.
Each Color (A, B, C, D, E) is labeled based on the number given to the color by the Caron X Pantone tag. See the end of the pattern for other skein color combinations.
COMPONENTS
Materials:
Size 8 circular needles
Size 8 double pointed needles
Stitch marker
Tapestry needle
1 skein Caron x Pantone in Frozen Berry
            Color A – 19-4044
            Color B – 18-2929
            Color C – 17-4540
            Color D – 17-5034
            Color E – 13-4103
Size:
Adult
Finished Measurements:
22 inches (circumference) x 10 inches (height)
Gauge:
16 sts x 18 rows = 4 inches in K1, P1
STITCH ABBREVIATIONS
K– knit
P– purl
K2tog– knit two stitches together
Ssk– slip stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches 
CO– cast on
St(s)– stitch(es)
 
INSTRUCTIONS
With size 8 circular needles and Color A, CO 78. Place marker at beginning of round.
Round 1-6: (Color A) *K1, P1*
Round 7: (Color A) *K*
Round 8: (Color B) *K1, P1*
Round 9: (Color A) *K*
Round 10: (Color B) *P1, K1*
Repeat Rounds 7-10 one more time (two repeats total)
Round 11: (Color C) *K*
Round 12: (Color B) *K1, P1*
Round 13: (Color C) *K*
Round 14: (Color B) *P1, K1*
Repeat Rounds 11-14 two more times (three repeats total), then repeat Rounds 11-12
Round 15: (Color C) *K*
Round 16: (Color D) *P1, K1*
Round 17: (Color C) *K*
Round 18: (Color D) *K1, P1*
Repeat Rounds 15-18 one more time (two repeats total)
Round 19: (Color E) *K*
Round 20: (Color D) *P1, K1*
Round 21: (Color E) *K*
Round 22: (Color D) *K1, P1*
Repeat Rounds 19-22 one more time (two repeats total)
Crown Shaping
Round 23: (Color E) *K11, K2tog, ssk, K11*
Round 24: (Color D) *P1, K1*
Round 25: (Color E) *ssk, K20, K2tog*
Round 26: (Color D) *P1, K1*
Round 27: (Color E) *K9, K2tog, ssk, K9*
Round 28: (Color D) *K1, P1*
Round 29: (Color E) *ssk, K16, K2tog*
Round 30: (Color D) *K1, P1*
Round 31: (Color E) *K7, K2tog, ssk, K7*
Round 32: (Color E) *P1, K1*
Round 33: (Color E) *ssk, K12, K2tog*
Round 34: (Color E) *P1, K1*
Round 35: (Color E) *K5, K2tog, ssk, K5*
Round 36: (Color E) *K1, P1*
Round 37: (Color E) *ssk, K8, K2tog*
Round 38: (Color E) *K1, P1*
Round 39: (Color E) *K3, K2tog, ssk, K2*
Round 40: (Color E) *K2tog*
 
 
Color Variations:
Caron x Pantone in Frozen Berry
            Color A – 19-4044
            Color B – 18-2929
            Color C – 17-4540
            Color D – 17-5034
            Color E – 13-4103
Caron x Pantone in Olive Oil
            Color A – 19-0516
            Color B – 16-0906
            Color C – 16-0737
            Color D – 13-0000
            Color E – 14-1210
 
Caron x Pantone in Provincial Lilac
            Color A – 18-1404
            Color B – 15-3912
            Color C – 16-1412
            Color D – 14-4203
            Color E – 11-4302
 
Caron x Pantone in Peach Blush Parfait
            Color A – 18-1633
            Color B – 14-1219
            Color C – 14-4809
            Color D – 12-2902
            Color E – 14-1210