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Pattern: Dried Hydrangea Socks

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Dried Hydrangea Socks below!
 
 

Toe-up staggered rib socks make any yarn pop

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

These socks are worked from the toe-up and the length can be easily adjusted to fit the average woman’s foot.

When working the gusset shaping after finishing the heel flap, be sure to continue the Staggered Pattern from one needle to the next so it matches after the gusset decreases. 

Stitch counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: Small (Medium, Large). See Size section below for more information about sizing.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

280 (300, 330) yards of fingering weight yarn

The pictured yarn is hand-dyed fingering weight yarn from Knit A Bit Crochet Away in Dried Hydrangea. Order your skein here! 

Size 0 double pointed needles

Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Size:

Size Small (Medium, Large)

Small: Adult Women’s US Size 6 and under

Medium: Adult Women’s US Size 7-9,

Large: Adult Women’s US Size 10 and over

Gauge:

24 sts x 38 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip stitch as if to purl, unless otherwise indicated

WYIF – with the yarn in the front

WYIB – with the yarn in the back

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).

P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).

Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).

BOR – beginning of round.

PATTERN REPEAT

Staggered Pattern:

Rounds 1-6: *K1, P1*

Round 7: K across

Rounds 8-13: *P1, K1*

Round 14: K across

INSTRUCTIONS

Toe Shaping:
Use the provisional cast on method to cast on 12 stitches

Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Purl across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K4 (add a needle) K4, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to *
Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 36 (40, 44) sts total, or 9 (10, 11) sts per needle

Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 7-8 until you have 48 (52, 56) sts total, 12 (13, 14) sts per needle

Rounds 9-10: K across
Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 9-11 until you have 60 (64, 68) sts total, 15 (16, 17) sts per needle

Foot:
Round 12: Needle 1 – work Staggered Pattern
    Needle 2 – work Staggered Pattern
    Needle 3 – K across
    Needle 4 – K across

Repeat Round 12 until the sock fits from your toes to the bend in the top of your foot where your ankle starts. 

Heel Flap:
Turn and work only across Needles 3 and 4 only (worked flat), leaving Needles 1 and 2 unworked. 

Row 13: Sl1, P across, turn
Row 14: Sl 1, K1, *Sl1 as if to purl, K1,* turn

Repeat Rows 13 and 14 for a total of 24 rows.

Heel Shaping:
Row 15 (WS): Sl1 WYIF, P15 (16, 17), P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 16 (RS): Sl1 WYIB, K3, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 17 (WS): Sl1 WYIF, P4, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)  
Row 18 (RS): Sl1 WYIB, K5, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 

Continue working the heel flap in this manner, working an additional stitch before the decrease stitch in each row. In other words, work until 1 st before the “gap” that gets created from the decrease stitch in the previous row before you work the decrease in this row. Continue in this manner until you end working a RS row and you have worked a decrease over all of the gaps. You should have 16 (18, 20) sts on your needle. Note: for the Small and Large sizes, you will not work a P1 at the end of the last WS row or a K1 at the end of the last RS row.

Gusset Shaping: (decrease)

Round 19: Begin working in the round again. Split the heel flap sts across two needles so you have 8 (9, 10) sts per needle. The space between these two heel flap needles now becomes the BOR. With the second heel flap needle (this needle now becomes Needle 1), pick up and K 12 sts along heel flap edge. Work across the next two needles (now Needles 2 and 3) in the Staggered Pattern. Using Needle 4, pick up and K 12 sts along the other heel flap edge, then K across remaining sts on Needle 4 until BOR.

Round 20: Needle 1 – Work Staggered Pattern across 15 (16, 17) sts, K to last 2 sts, K2tog 
    Needles 2-3 – Work Staggered Pattern
    Needle 4 – SSK, K until 15 (16, 17) sts remain, work Staggered Pattern across remaining sts

Round 21: Needle 1 – Work Staggered Pattern across 15 (16, 17) sts, K to end
    Needles 2-3 – Work Staggered Pattern
    Needle 4 – K until 15 (16, 17) sts remain, work Staggered Pattern across remaining sts

Repeat Rounds 20 and 21 until you have 15 (16, 17) sts per needle.

Ankle:
Round 37: Work Staggered Pattern across all needles until you reach desired length, being sure to end on a Round 6 or Round 13 of the Staggered Pattern.

Bind off using Icelandic Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Repeat pattern for second sock.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Dried Hydrangea Socks as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #DriedHydrangeaSocks– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Firestone Socks

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Firestone Socks below!
 
 

Toe-up textured rib socks make any yarn pop

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

These socks are worked from the toe-up and the length can be easily adjusted to fit the average woman’s foot.

When working the gusset shaping, be sure to continue the Stripe Pattern from one needle to the next so it matches after the gusset decreases. The sts that will be decreased along the gusset shaping are worked in CC 2 only to make the color work flow nicely with the decreases.

Stitch counts are indicated for each size based on the following size order: Women’s Size 6 and under (7-9, 10 and over)

Each square in the Colorwork Charts represents one stitch, meaning each line represents a new round. Repeat the Colorwork Charts indicated for all stitches on the needle(s), working the chart from the bottom right to the top left. If the stitches on needle end in the middle of working a repeat, then end in the middle of the repeat, but be sure to always start working the Colorwork Chart with the first left cell.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

100 (114, 130) yards of fingering weight yarn in gray (MC)

80 (92, 110)  yards of fingering weight yarn in yellow (CC 1)

80 (92, 110)  yards of fingering weight yarn in purple (CC 2)

The pictured yarn is hand-dyed Knit Picks Bare Hare, which is an 80% merino wool, 20% angora blend

Size 1 double pointed needles

Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Size:

Adult Women’s Size 6 and under (7-9, 10 and over)

Gauge:

28 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip stitch as if to knit, unless otherwise indicated

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).

P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).

Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).

MC – main color

CC – contrast color

COLORWORK CHARTS

Key:

Stripe Pattern:

Checkered Pattern:

INSTRUCTIONS

Toe Shaping:
Using MC, use the provisional cast on method to cast on 12 stitches

Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Purl across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K4 (add a needle) K4, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to *
Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 36 (40, 44) sts total, or 9 (10, 11) sts per needle

Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 7-8 until you have 48 (52, 56) sts total, 12 (13, 14) sts per needle

Rounds 9-10: K across
Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 9-11 until you have 56 (60, 64) sts total, 14 (15, 16) sts per needle

Rounds 12-13: K across
Round 14: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 –  K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle

You should now have 58 (62, 66) sts total, 15 (16, 17) sts on Needles 1 and 2, 14 (15, 16) sts on Needles 3 and 4

Rounds 15-16: K across
Round 17: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

     Needle 2 – K across needle
     Needle 3 –  K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle

You should now have 59 (63, 67) sts total, 16 (17, 18) sts on Needle 1, 15 (16, 17) sts on Needle 2, 14 (15, 16) sts on Needles 3 and 4

Foot:
Round 18: Needle 1 – work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 2 – work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 3 – work Checkered Pattern
    Needle 4 – work Checkered Pattern

Repeat Round 18 until the sock fits from your toes to the bend in the top of your foot where your ankle starts. 

Heel Flap:
Turn and work using CC 2 only across Needles 3 and 4 only (worked flat), leaving Needles 1 and 2 unworked. 

Row 19: Sl1, P across, turn
Row 20: Sl 1, K1, *Sl1 as if to purl, K1,* turn

Repeat Rows 19 and 20 for a total of 24 rows total.

Heel Shaping:
Row 21: Sl1, P13 (14, 15), P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 22: Sl1, K1, Sl1 as if to purl, K1, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 23: Sl1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)  
Row 24: Sl1, (K1, Sl1 as if to purl)x2, K1, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 25: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 

Continue working the heel flap in this manner, working an additional stitch before the decrease stitch in each row. In other words, work until 1 st before the “gap” that gets created from the decrease stitch in the previous row before you work the decrease in this row. Continue in this manner until you end working the following:
Row 26: Sl1, P13 (14, 15), P2tog, P1, turn

Gusset Shaping: (decrease)

Round 27: Begin working in the round again and continue using CC 2 only. K across 9 sts on one needle (this needle now becomes Needle 4). Using a new needle, K across remaining 8 heel flap sts (this needle now becomes Needle 1). On the same Needle 1, pick up and K 12 sts along heel flap edge. Work across the next two needles (now Needles 2 and 3) in the Stripe Pattern. Using Needle 4, pick up 12 sts and K the first 5 sts in CC 2 only, then work the remaining 7 picked up sts and 9 heel flap sts in the Stripe Pattern.

Round 28: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 5 sts, (K2, K2tog, K1) in CC 2
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – (K1, SSK, K2) in CC2, work Stripe Pattern to end

Round 29: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 4 sts, K4 in CC 2
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – K4 in CC2, work Stripe Pattern to end

Round 30: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 4 sts, (K1, K2tog, K1) in CC 2
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – (K1, SSK, K1) in CC2, work Stripe Pattern to end

Round 31: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 3 sts, K3 in CC 2
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – K3 in CC2, work Stripe Pattern to end

Round 32: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 3 sts, (K2tog, K1) in CC 2
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – (K1, SSK) in CC2, work Stripe Pattern to end

Round 33: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 2 sts, K2 in CC 2
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – K2 in CC2, work Stripe Pattern to end

Round 34: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 2 sts, K2tog in CC 2
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – SSK in CC2, work Stripe Pattern to end

Round 35: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 1 st1, K1 in CC 2
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – K1 in CC2, work Stripe Pattern to end

Round 36: Needle 1 – Work Stripe Pattern to last 2 sts, K2tog in color of Stripe Pattern
    Needles 2-3 – Work Stripe Pattern
    Needle 4 – SSK in color of Stripe Pattern, work Stripe Pattern to end

Ankle:
Round 37: Work Stripe Pattern across all needles until you reach 2 inches below desired length

Rounds 38-49: Using CC 1 only, *K1, P1* 

Bind off using CC 1 and Icelandic Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Repeat pattern for second sock.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Firestone Socks as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #FirestoneSocks– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Mesh Baby Blanket

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Mesh Baby Blanket below!

A soft and squishy baby blanket

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Beginner

Pattern Notes:

This blanket is knit flat and in one piece. The yarn is held double through the entire blanket to achieve maximum squishiness

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

2 skeins Loops and Threads Cozy Baby in Oahu

Size 11 (US) circular needles, 16 inch

Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

28 inches x 44 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip

YO – yarn over

CO – cast on

St(s) – stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Using long tail cast on method and with yarn held double, CO 113 sts

Rows 1-5: K across

Row 6: K5, Sl1, K1, *pass the third st on the left needle over the first and second sts on the left needle, K1, YO, K1* until the last 7 sts, K7.

Row 7: K5, P across until the last 5 sts, K5.

Row 8: K5, Sl1, K2, *pass the third st on the left needle over the first and second sts on the left needle, K1, YO, K1* until the last 6 sts, K6.

Row 9: Repeat Row 7.

Repeat Rows 6-9 until you reach approximately 1.5 inches before your desired length.

Rows 10-14: K across

Bind off loosely. Cut yarn and weave in ends with tapestry needle.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Mesh Baby Blanket as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #MeshBabyBlanket – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Novus Socks

Toe-up textured rib socks make any yarn pop

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Novus Socks below!

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

These socks are worked from the toe-up and the length can be easily adjusted to fit the average woman’s foot.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

300-350 yards of fingering weight yarn (I used my hand dyed yarn – check out ready to ship options here!)

Size 1 double pointed needles

Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Size:

Adult

Gauge:

28 sts x 36 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

P – purl

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).

Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).

Textured Stitch Pattern:

Round 1: K across

Round 2: P across

Rounds 3-4: *K1, P1*

INSTRUCTIONS

Toe Shaping:
Using provisional cast on method and the scrap yarn, cast on 12 stitches
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Purl across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K4 (add a needle) K4, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to *
Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 40 sts total, or 10 sts per needle

Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 7-8 until you have 52 sts total, 13 sts per needle

Rounds 9-10: K across
Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 9-11 until you have 60 sts total, 15 sts per needle

Rounds 12-14: K across
Round 15: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

You should now have 64 sts total, 16 sts per needle

Foot:
Round 16: Needle 1 – work Textured Stitch pattern
Needle 2 – work Textured Stitch pattern
Needle 3 – K across needle
Needle 4 – K across needle

Repeat Round 16 until the sock fits from your toes to the bend in the top of your foot where your ankle starts.

Heel Flap:
Turn and work across Needles 3 and 4 only (worked flat), leaving Needles 1 and 2 unworked.

Row 17: Sl1, P across, turn
Row 18: Sl 1, K across, turn

Repeat Rows 17 and 18 for a total of 22 rows total.

Heel Shaping:
Row 19: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 20: Sl1, K5, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 21: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 22: Sl1, K7, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 23: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 24: Sl1, K9, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 25: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 26: Sl1, K11, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 27: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 28: Sl1, K13, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 29: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 30: Sl1, K15, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)
Row 31: Sl1, P16, P2tog, turn

Row 32: Sl1, K across until last 2 sts, SSK. Split the 18 heel flap sts evenly across 2 needles (9 sts per needle). The first needle now becomes Needle 4 and the second needle now becomes Needle 1. Begin working in the round again.

Round 33: On Needle 1, pick up and K 11 sts along heel flap edge, work across Needles 2 and 3 in Textured Stitch pattern, on Needle 4, pick up and K 11 sts along heel flap edge, K across last 9 sts on the same needle.

Gusset Shaping: (decrease)
Round 34: Needle 1 – K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
Needles 2-3 – Work Textured Stitch pattern
Needle 4 – K1, SSK, K to end

Round 35: K across Needles 1 and 4, Textured Stitch pattern across Needles 2 and 3.

Repeat Rounds 34-35 until there are 16 sts per needle

Ankle:
Round 36: Work Textured Stitch pattern across all needles until you reach 1 inch below desired length

Round 37: *K1, P1*

Repeat Round 37 for 1 inch.

Bind off using Icelandic Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Repeat pattern for second sock.

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Pattern: Beachcomber’s Wrap

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of the Beachcomber’s Wrap below!

A light, cotton shawl worked in colorful wedges

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

When stitches appear between * and *, repeat until the end, unless otherwise indicated

This shawl is worked using short rows to make slightly offset wedges in different colors. The half linens stitch works up like a dream in cotton!

When you work a row over a wrapped stitch, be sure to pick up the wrap and work it with the live stitch

For all odd numbered rows, use the same color worked in the precious row

Materials:

1 skein Loops & Threads Coastal Cotton in Cloud (Color A)

1 skein Loops & Threads Coastal Cotton in Pink (Color B)

1 skein Loops & Threads Coastal Cotton in Aqua (Color C)

1 skein Loops & Threads Coastal Cotton in Purple (Color D)

1 skein Loops & Threads Coastal Cotton in Berry (Color E)

Size 7 (US) circular knitting needle

Finished Measurements:

51″ long, 22″ wide

Gauge:

18 sts x 26 rows = 4 inches (in half linen stitch)

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

CO – cast on

K – knit

P – purl

Wrp-tp – with the yarn in the front, slip the next stitch purl wise, bring the yarn to the back, slip the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle, turn

Sl – slip the stitch purlwise

WYIF – with the yarn held in the front

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

BO – bind off

INSTRUCTIONS

In Color A, CO 128

Row 1 and all odd-numbered rows (WS): P

Row 2 (RS): In Color B, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Row 4: In Color A, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Row 6: In Color B, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 4-7 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 8: In Color C, CO 4 sts, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until 8 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 10: In Color B, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Row 12: In Color C, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 10-13 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 14: In Color D, CO 4 sts, *K1, sl WYIF* until 12 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 16: In Color C, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Row 18: In Color D, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 16-19 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 20: In Color E, CO 4 sts, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until 16 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 22: In Color D, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Row 24: In Color E, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 22-25 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 26: In Color A, CO 4 sts, *K1, sl WYIF* until 20 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 28: In Color E, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Row 30: In Color A, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 28-31 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 32: In Color B, CO 4 sts, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until 24 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 34: In Color A, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Row 36: In Color B, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 34-37 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 38: In Color C, CO 4 sts, *K1, sl WYIF* until 28 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 40: In Color B, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Row 42: In Color C, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 40-43 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 44: In Color D, CO 4 sts, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until 32 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 46: In Color C, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Row 48: In Color D, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 46-49 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 50: In Color E, CO 4 sts, *K1, sl WYIF* until  36 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 52: In Color D, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Row 54: In Color E, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 52-55 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

Row 56: In Color A, CO 4 sts, K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until 40 sts remain, wrp-tp

Row 58: In Color E, *K1, sl WYIF* until last 4 sts, wrp-tp

Row 60: In Color A: K2, *sl WYIF, K1* until last 4 sts before last wrapped st, wrp-tp

Repeat Rows 58-61 until you have worked an odd-numbered row with only 4 sts

Cut yarn

(RS) In Color A, BO across all sts using the Icelandic Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Cut yarn and weave in ends

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Beachcomber’s Wrap as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #BeachcombersWrap – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Spring Fling Tank

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Beginner

Pattern Notes:

When stitches appear between * and *, repeat until the end, unless otherwise indicated

This tank is worked in two rectangular pieces – the front panel and the back panel – that are sewn together in the end. Easy peasy!

This tank has 1-2 inches of positive ease.

Materials:

2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins Lily Sugar N Cream in Ecru Doux (MC)

2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins Lily Sugar N Cream in Camomile (CC)

Size K/10.5 (US) 6.5 mm crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Sizes:

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Finished Measurements:

Bust: 31″ (35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63″)

Length: 20″ (20.5, 21.5, 22, 22, 23, 23, 24, 24)

Gauge:

8 sts x 9 rows = 4 inches (in Ch 1, HDC, counts as 1 st)

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain

HDC – half double crochet

MC – main color

CC – contrast color

St(s) – stitch(es)

INSTRUCTIONS

Front Panel:

In CC, Ch 53 (55, 59, 61, 63, 65, 65, 67, 67)

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, HDC in each Ch across

Row 2: Ch 1, HDC in first st, *Ch 1, skip next st, HDC in next st.*

Row 3: *Ch 1, HDC in next Ch space* until you worked the last Ch space, Ch 1, HDC in first st from previous row.

Repeat Row 3 an additional 18 (19, 20, 20, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22) times.

In MC, repeat Row 3 for a total of 26 (27, 28, 29, 29, 30, 30, 31, 31) times.

Cut yarn.

Back Panel:

Repeat Front Panel steps to create a back panel.

Sewing:

Note: when sewing, make sure to use the MC when sewing together MC sts or rows, and use the CC when sewing together CC sts or rows. This means you will need to change colors when sewing up the side seams.

With wrong sides of the panels facing, line up the rows so the MC and CC rows match each other. The bottom of the panel is in the CC and the top of the panel is in the MC. Sew up the sides first, going from the bottom to the top. Leave 12 (13, 14, 14, 15, 16, 17, 17, 18) rows unworked at the top for the armhole.

At the top of the panel, sew 12 (12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15) sts together on the left side and sew 12 (12, 13, 13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 15) sts together on the right side, leaving 28 (30, 32, 34, 34, 36, 36, 36, 36) sts un-sewn for the neck hole.

Weave in ends and wear with pride!

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Spring Fling Tank as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #SpringFlingTank – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Entangled Scarf

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Entangled Scarf below!

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Advanced Beginner

Pattern Notes:

When stitches appear between * and *, repeat until the end, unless otherwise indicated

When stitches appear between ( and ), work those stitches in the same stitch indicated

Because you skip the last DC and SC (or SC and DC) at the end of each row, each row gets shorter, leaving a staircase-looking edge

The piece is shaped like a long isosceles trapezoid (math is fun!)

COMPONENTS

Materials:

4 skeins Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick in Jam Cookie

Size M/13 (US) / 9 mm crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

12 inches wide x 84 inches long at the longer edge (excluding tassels)

Gauge:

6.5 sts x 8 rows = 4 inches (in SC)

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain

SC – single crochet

DC – double crochet

WS – wrong side

INSTRUCTIONS

Scarf:

Ch 152

Row 1: 1 DC in 2ndch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, 1 SC in next ch, 1 DC in next ch,* turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, skip 1stDC and SC, (1 DC, 1 SC) in next ch space, *ch 1, (1 DC, 1 SC) in next ch space,* through last ch space, leaving last DC and SC unworked, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, skip 1stSC and DC, (1 SC, 1 DC) in next ch space, *ch 1, (1 SC, 1 DC) in next ch space,* through last ch space, leaving last SC and DC unworked, turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 seven more times (eight repeats total).

Tassels:

A video tutorial for attaching the tassels is available here, or written instructions are below.

Cut the remaining yarn you have into 15” pieces until you have 90 pieces to form the tassels. You will need 18 tassels total, with 9 tassels per side, and 5 pieces of string per tassel.

The tassels are attached to the ch space closest to the edge of the row. Tassels are only attached to the odd numbered rows (i.e. the first row, the last row, and alternating rows in between).

To attach a tassel, fold the 5 pieces of string in half, creating a loop in the middle. With the WS of the work facing, put the loop through the ch space, inserting it from the bottom of the work to the top of the work. Pull the tassel ends through the loop and pull tight.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Entangled Scarf as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #EntangledScarf– I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Broken Ladder Socks

Toe-up whelk stitch socks

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Broken Ladder Socks below!
 

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Intermediate

Pattern Notes:

Stitches that appear between * and * should be worked until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

These socks are worked from the toe-up and the length can be easily adjusted to fit the average woman’s foot.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

1 skein Loops & Threads Perfect Pair in Born to Run
Size 1 double pointed needles
Scrap yarn

Yarn Substitute: Stroll

This post contains affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase though the links in this post, a small portion of the sale may go to support this site, at no additional cost to you.

Size:

Adult

Gauge:

28 sts x 36 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle

SSK – slip unworked stitch from left needle to right needle knitwise. Slip a second unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle knitwise. Slip those two unworked stitches separately back to the left needle purlwise. Knit those two stitches together in the back of the stitches (decrease).

K2tog – knit two stitches together (decrease).

P2tog – purl two stitches together (decrease).

Inc – knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase).

Welk Stitch Pattern:

Row 1: *K1, sl1, K2*

Row 2: *P1, sl1, P2*

Rows 3-4: *K3, sl1* 

INSTRUCTIONS

Toe Shaping:
Using provisional cast on method and the scrap yarn, cast on 12 stitches
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Purl across

Remove live stitches from scrap yarn and place them on a double pointed needle. You should have 24 sts on two needles. Begin knitting in the round.

Round 5: *K2, Inc, K4 (add a needle) K4, Inc, K2.* Repeat from * to *
Round 6: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Round 6 until you have 40 sts total, or 10 sts per needle

Round 7: K across
Round 8: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 7-8 until you have 52 sts total, 13 sts per needle

Rounds 9-10: K across
Round 11: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

Repeat Rounds 9-11 until you have 60 sts total, 15 sts per needle

Rounds 12-14: K across
Round 15: Needle 1 – K2, Inc, K across needle

     Needle 2 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2
     Needle 3 – K2, Inc, K across needle
     Needle 4 – K across needle to last 3 sts, Inc, K2

You should now have 64 sts total, 16 sts per needle

Foot:
Round 16: Needle 1 – work Whelk Stitch pattern
    Needle 2 – work Whelk Stitch pattern
    Needle 3 – K across needle
    Needle 4 – K across needle

Repeat Round 16 until the sock fits from your toes to the bend in the top of your foot where your ankle starts. 

Heel Flap:
Turn and work across Needles 3 and 4 only (worked flat), leaving Needles 1 and 2 unworked. 

Row 17: Sl1, P across, turn
Row 18: Sl 1, K across, turn

Repeat Rows 17 and 18 for a total of 22 rows total.

Heel Shaping:
Row 19: Sl1, P17, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 20: Sl1, K5, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 21: Sl1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked)  
Row 22: Sl1, K7, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 23: Sl1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 24: Sl1, K9, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 25: Sl1, P10, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 26: Sl1, K11, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 27: Sl1, P12, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 28: Sl1, K13, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 29: Sl1, P14, P2tog, P1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 30: Sl1, K15, SSK, K1, turn (leave remaining sts unworked) 
Row 31: Sl1, P16, P2tog, turn

Row 32: Sl1, K across until last 2 sts, SSK. Split the 18 heel flap sts evenly across 2 needles (9 sts per needle). The first needle now becomes Needle 4 and the second needle now becomes Needle 1. Begin working in the round again.

Round 33: On Needle 1, pick up and K 11 sts along heel flap edge, work across Needles 2 and 3 in Whelk Stitch pattern, on Needle 4, pick up and K 11 sts along heel flap edge, K across last 9 sts on the same needle.

Gusset Shaping: (decrease)
Round 34: Needle 1 – K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
    Needles 2-3 – Work Whelk Stitch pattern
    Needle 4 – K1, SSK, K to end

Round 35: K across Needles 1 and 4, Whelk Stitch pattern across Needles 2 and 3.

Repeat Rounds 34-35 until there are 16 sts per needle

Ankle:
Round 36: Work Whelk Stitch pattern across all needles until you reach 1 inch below desired length

Round 37: *K1, P1* 

Repeat Round 37 for 1 inch. 

Bind off using Icelandic Bind Off (video tutorial available here).

Repeat pattern for second sock.

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Pattern: Show Me Your Spots Cowl

A bright and colorful spotty cowl

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Show Me Your Spots Cowl below!

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Advanced Beginner

Pattern Notes:

This cowl is knit in one piece in the round and top down. It is meant to use nearly all yarn in the skein listed below.

This pattern uses a color work chart for the Spots Pattern.

When stitches appear between * and *, repeat until the end, unless otherwise indicated.

COMPONENTS

Materials:

1 skein Yarn Bee Pigment & Fiber in Friday’s in Florence

Size 2 (US) circular knitting needles

Stitch marker

Tapestry needle

Finished Measurements:

17 inches tall x 32 inches around

Gauge:

28 sts x 28 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

CO – cast on

St(s) – stitch(es)

MC – main color

CC – contrast color

INSTRUCTIONS

Color ID:

Color A: Silver

Color B: Green

Color C: Yellow

Color D: Maroon

Color E: Blue

Color F: Black

Spots Pattern:

CO 216 sts. Place marker at beginning of round. Begin working in the round.

Rounds 1-3: With Color A, *K1, P1*

Rounds 4-13: With Color A as MC and Color B as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 14-23: With Color C as MC and Color D as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 24-33: With Color E as MC and Color F as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 34-43: With Color B as MC and Color C as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 44-53: With Color D as MC and Color E as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 54-63: With Color F as MC and Color A as CC, K across, following the Spots Pattern chart for each Round.

Rounds 64-66: With Color F, *K1, P1*

Bind off. Use a tapestry needle to weave in ends. 

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Show Me Your Spots Cowl as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #ShowMeYourSpotsCowl – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!

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Pattern: Sadie Bonnet

A simple crochet bonnet with easy drawstring

Find a printer-friendly, PDF version of Sadie Bonnet below!
 

ABOUT

Skill Level:

Beginner

Pattern Notes:

This bonnet is made in one piece with the back edge sewn together at the end.

A drawstring pulls the base of the bonnet to frame the face

COMPONENTS

Materials:

Size I crochet hook

1 skein I Love This Yarn! or 125 (150, 175) yards of worsted weight yarn

Tapestry needle

Pompom (optional)

Size:

Small (Medium, Large)

3-6 months (6-12 months, 12-24 months)

Finished Measurements:

6.5 inches tall, 5.25 inches deep (7.5 inches tall, 6 inches deep; 8.5 inches tall, 7 inches deep)

Gauge:

14 sts x 7.5 rows = 4 inches

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

Ch – chain

DC – double crochet

INSTRUCTIONS

Bonnet:

Ch 49 (57, 65)

Row 1: 1 DC in 4thch from hook and each ch across, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, 1 DC in front loops only in each DC across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, 1 DC in back loops only in each DC across, turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 three (four, five) more times.

For Size Large ONLY, Repeat Row 2.

Cut yarn.

With the wrong sides facing, fold in half and sew the ch row together using the tapestry needle.

Drawstring:

Crochet an I-cord until your string measures 25 (30, 35) inches. Here is a linkto great instructions on how to crochet an I-cord.

Weave your drawstring in an out of each space between the first and second DC of each row along the bottom edge of the bonnet.

Pompom: (Optional)

With your favorite faux fur or yarn pompom, attach it to the top corner of the bonnet, with the majority of the pompom resting on top of the corner, rather than the bottom of the corner where you sewed the ch row together up the back of the bonnet. This ensures it won’t flop around too much when worn.

THANK YOU!

I hope you enjoyed making the Sadie Bonnet as much as I did! Tag me on Instagram @knitabitcrochetaway and use #knitabitcrochetaway and #SadieBonnet – I’d love to see your progress and finished product!